Build US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap

[logicbyondreaso]

I wanted to circle back on the top sensor questions. I reviewed the wiring diagrams and see this sensor may be specific to FTE and VDJ motors. I also found a MUD post that references this sensor. Post #19 "1st indicator - FTE and VDJ use this to derate for longer clutch life".

H151 & Transfer Case wiring

I'm looking for wiring info for an H151 manual 5 speed transmission & TC. Specifically these plugs... — Discussion in Diesel Tech / 24 volts on...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Tank5]

I wanted to circle back on the top sensor questions. I reviewed the wiring diagrams and see this sensor may be specific to FTE and VDJ motors. I also found a MUD post that references this sensor. Post #19 "1st indicator - FTE and VDJ use this to derate for longer clutch life".

H151 & Transfer Case wiring

I'm looking for wiring info for an H151 manual 5 speed transmission & TC. Specifically these plugs... — Discussion in Diesel Tech / 24 volts on...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you very much for this information. The link with the manual in it was supper helpful too. Answered my questions.

 

[Tank5]

I have been checking things off the list as parts arrive just haven’t posted the progress, time to catch up.

I painted the block with Por15 engine coating. I like how it turned out, the cradle looks a lot better.

I am deleting the SAI making it less cramped under the intake.
The rear coolant cross over tube had to be swapped as well to delete the SAI.

The passenger valve cover was cracked, so I replaced both covers after scrubbing the new ones. I installed all new coil tube gaskets and valve cover gaskets.

Before I knew how I was going to delete the SAI system I bought Dough Thorley headers with the SAI tubes. I decided to tap the SAI head holes and plug them with Stainless steel plugs. I didn’t need the SAI tubes, so I cut them off cleaned the edges and painted them with some high temp ceramic paint.

Installed with new oem gaskets and nuts.

 

[Tank5]

The transmission is bolted to the engine with a clean but used flywheel, new pilot bearing, new oem clutch and pressure plate, and new clutch slave cylinder. On the tcase I swapped the 100 series actuator for an 80 series actuator to work with the 80 series harness.

I crated a custom fuel line to route the fuel delivery to come in from the passenger side.

The harness showed up, so I combined the tcase harness with the engine harness and hooked it up to the engine.

I need to button up few more things but should have this in the 80 soon.

 

[Tank5]

I previously moved the fuel lines off the frame and attached them to the body but was still worried about heat from the exhaust. I decided to wrap the lines with Lava Tube heat shield to help keep them cool. I am wondering if I need to do the same to the brake lines which are mounted on the inside of the driver side frame and would run parallel to the exhaust with only about an inch or two of clearance. How much clearance is needed between brake lines and exhaust? My internet searches did not find a definitive answer.

This is what I did with the fuel lines.

 

[Tank5]

I had noticed that the transfer case front output was really moist and looked as if it might have been leaking. I consider pulling it apart to put a new seal in it but decided to swap the entire transfer case for another. This H151F and tcase had done some water crossings. There is a solid inch of dirt in the void between the transmission and tcase. The drain hole was blocked. The output seal looked crusty on the transmission, so I swapped it out with a new one.

The case I swapped it for came with the engine when I bought it which had a know history, no leaks and 106k miles on it. Still had the factory sticker on the back.

After swapping in an 80 CDL actuator and other parts it is ready enough to go back in the 80 for the final time I hope.

 

[Tank5]

I am back to working on this again making and made a little progress this weekend.

I pulled the dash out to replace the heater core. I took the opportunity to clean out the inside of heater and AC housings while I had it all apart.

With the dash out of the way I added a bracket to support the clutch pedal bracket and painted it with some 2k matched paint.

Back together

I installed the proper brake pedal for the manual 80 series as well as finished modifying and fitting the throttle pedal. All the pedals are place.

If you have removed your dash before you are aware that the core support behind is not finished. I decided to clean it up and spray it with 2k epoxy primer and 2k paint code matched paint. No one can see it but it is satisfying to install it better looking than when it came out.

I installed a new fuel filter, hooked up the fuel lines, and a few other small engine bay items.

 

[nickolai]

if you haven't found it, this guy here in NZ is basically the Yoda of Toyota UZ engine swaps:

https://www.youtube.com/@CartuneNZ

 

[DivByZero]

While you've got the dash out, check out the pull cable mechanism for the climate temperature controls. The temperature adjustment has a habit of getting difficult to pull over to full cold over time. I'd take the opportunity to lube everything up while it's accessible, the mechanism right under the bottom rear of the unit in particular seems to be a problem area. Impossible to do anything about unless you have the full dash out.

 

[sunrk]

Does the clutch pedal arrangement for US market 80's have the same over-centre springing setup that the RHD ones get?

 

[Tank5]

Does the clutch pedal arrangement for US market 80's have the same over-centre springing setup that the RHD ones get?

I’m not familiar with the RHD set up, do you have a picture? I guessing not. I plan to use a single spring that pulls towards the dash similar to the brake pedal the brake. The clutch bracket I used is for an LHD spec. 100 series. It fit in the 80 stock location easily with the addition of the one mounting point I added.

 

[sunrk]

This is the toyodiy diagram for the RHD clutch pedal mechanism for my 80

 

[Tank5]

@sunrk
My pedal bracket is different, it doesn’t quite look like the one in your diagram. This is a picture of what I have before it was installed.

 

[Tank5]

I choose to reuse an 80 series power steering reservoir and mounted it in place.

I replaced the power steering lines and with out thinking much about it I threaded the power steering fitting into the power steering pump. Then I remembered the 100 series pump uses a banjo fitting and bolt to attach the power steering hose and what threaded in is a flare fitting. I am probably fooling my self but what are the chances this will work and not leak?

Trying to keep with the poverty pack status, I ordered an oem manual radio antenna and installed it. No more motor to fail here.

I need to move the battery box to the driver side to better fit the 2uz harness.

I am also working on getting a quote to have a fan shroud built.

 

[Tank5]

I had some time to get back to this and have been sorting through the wiring diagram after sourcing the dash harness plug I needed. Big thanks to @cruisermatt for the help finding it. Not much to show in pictures for wiring but it is happening.

The other part I was missing was a radiator shroud. I had opted to order a custom built shroud that I knew I would have to modify after I got it, so I went looking for someone that built steel shrouds. I ordered it from brassworks and they built what I wanted but it was all soldered together which was fine until my modifications intersected the soldered joints. The solder made a mess that I had to clean up and weld the affected joints.

It all came together and mounts to the oem radiator the same way the oem shroud did.

How I received it.

After some tweaks.

Installed

 

[Norcal510]

Looking good

 

[Tank5]

I am looking at closing up the ac system again, so I can put the front end together and would like to replace the AC condenser the one that was on looks aged and the AC never worked before I started the swap.

I researched here and online and I am finding the oem condenser is discontinued for the early 91-92 80 series and the only Denso option I can find is for the 93-97 80 series.

Can anyone point me forwards a good replacement for the 91-92 80 series?

Has anyone tried using the the later 93-97 condenser on an early 80?

I called a shop that can test and repair what I have but the process requires 6 hours of round trip driving and what ever the cost is. I would rather just spend the money on a new replacement if a quality one is available.

 

[Tank5]

I recall when I started the motor swap I thought I was going to get this swap done before summer started 2023. My only defense is that I got distracted by my 45 which I have been able to enjoy. Since I have been enjoying the 45 and focused on it, the 80 has been worked on much.

I do have it wired up, so I should be able to start it but have not tried yet. I sourced some coolant hoses to connect the radiator to the engine and engine to the heater core.

The A/C lines sent me down a worm hole. I had to determine my routing and wanted to replace my ac condenser which I found is not available for the early 91-92 years. I decided to swap in a later condenser from a 97 80 which required me to have some custom fittings made because I wanted to retain the dryer in the 91 stock location. I also wanted to route the low pressure ac line from the ac core behind the engine and needed to use the firewall fitting from 97 80 series. This lead to needing to swap out the AC core under the dash to a later core.

When all was done the ac system has been built with a 93-97 ac core, 93-97 ac condensor, 91-92 dryer. The ac lines from a 97 Land Cruiser were swapped in to replace the 91 lines but were customized to retain the 91-92 dryer location. The compressor lines came from
a 100 series and had to be custom fitted to mesh with the 80 lines.

These are the lines after they were made.

The top fitting here is what I needed to direct the line neatly behind the engine. It took a little tweaking to get it to clear the harness. It was the reason I had to switch the core, this fitting is not the same between early and later 80s.

I need to have five inches removed from the low pressure line. The hose is just too stiff to run the way I wanted, here I cut and marked it to get shortened the next time I get to town.

These pictures look pretty stock, so not too exciting but it took a bit to get it all sorted out.

 

[alia176]

"looking stock" is the ultimate goal, I think. Nice job. Are you gonna leave it in full time 4x4 or part time? Doing donuts is a must have, doncha know.

 

[Tank5]

"looking stock" is the ultimate goal, I think. Nice job. Are you gonna leave it in full time 4x4 or part time? Doing donuts is a must have, doncha know.

The goal is to make it look as stock as I can.

I don’t have plans to install a part time kit but I would like to install some low range transfercase gears down the road. If I did go part time that would be the ideal time to do it.

I am not sure I am convinced going part time is worth the investment, so I don’t know.