TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (5 Viewers)

[Roxx]

I had something similar happen to me on the 4runner it was weather like this and everytime the compressor came on it lost everything. I didnt notice it was the compressor until the compressor started smoking.

I got the Cruiser fixed and then I didn't. I spent all day Saturday working on the Cruiser. I removed the alarm system, replaced the fuel pump relay, and cleaned up all my wiring from my previous lighting projects. I also cleaned the grounds for my lights. Upon testing, I got nothing. I had a checklist going and fusible links was next. I read online that fusible links can go at any time and sometimes do not present visible burning. I had a spare so I installed it. The Cruiser fired right up and I was ecstatic. I buttoned up all the dash panels and put all the tools away. We were heading out to dinner and I wanted to drive the Cruiser. It started up again perfectly. I pulled out of the driveway and drove about 50 yards down the road to make a right hand turn. As soon as I was in the apex of the turn, the Cruiser died just like before.

I am going to check the old fusible link and the now new busted fusible link. I have a suspicion that the AM2 (gray connector) is the culprit. I need to figure out what hangs off that section of the wire and find a way of tracing it down. I also have a feeling that the steering is somehow tied to the short.

I had a buddy pull the Cruiser back down the road to park it in front of the house.

 

[jfz80]

@lumbee1

I think the cutting off while turning should be your focus point for searches. That topic has been discussed many times in 80 tech iirc. Perhaps tied to rear lights and or trailer hitch harness going bad if you have one. A good place to start at least. I hate the random non reproduceable faults. Good luck.

 

[lumbee1]

@lumbee1

I think the cutting off while turning should be your focus point for searches. That topic has been discussed many times in 80 tech iirc. Perhaps tied to rear lights and or trailer hitch harness going bad if you have one. A good place to start at least. I hate the random non reproduceable faults. Good luck.

The steering definitely has something to do with it. I don't think I used the turn signal either time but both times the truck shut off in the middle of the turn. I've had to order a nicer DMM than my current unit to give me tone for continuity. The plan now is to connect the AM2 connector to one probe and the negative terminal on the battery to the other probe. Should be able to go through the motions with the steering wheel and find the ground.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Ok. I got the tank al buttoned up on my 82 first gen.
Well for some reason I’m not getting any fuel from the tank to the fuel filter.
I figured I might of mixed the two fuel lines when I connected everything up so I switched them around and as well as the ones at the filter and still no fuel coming from the tank to the fuel filter right before the carb.

Another thing that I can try is to replace the mechanical fuel pump?

I figured it be a simple thing. Change out the tank and connect everything back the way it was. Just with a new tank. Well it didn’t work out that way and I’m kind of stumped now.

should I replace the fuel canister? I don’t think this would be the issue since it wasn’t a problem before but I could be wrong.

Any ideas or something obvious that I’m missing here?

You put gas in the new tank, right?

How do you know you're not getting fuel?

Take the cap off and that will eliminate problems with venting. Test the mechanical pump by unbolting the line on the carb and cranking the engine. If you get gas everywhere, then it's not the tank/pump. It's possible that the carb is gummed up again, or that the lines are clogged from junk in the old tank.

 

[SFROMAN]

You put gas in the new tank, right?

How do you know you're not getting fuel?

Take the cap off and that will eliminate problems with venting. Test the mechanical pump by unbolting the line on the carb and cranking the engine. If you get gas everywhere, then it's not the tank/pump. It's possible that the carb is gummed up again, or that the lines are clogged from junk in the old tank.

Thanks for the reply brother. I slept on it and I believe I figured it out. I won’t have time to mess with it until tomorrow and hopefully I can figure it out with a little more time. I will report on my progress tomorrow.

 

[lumbee1]

With the key in the ignition, one probe on negative terminal and the other probe on AM2 gray connector of fusible link, I immediately get continuity indicating a short. When I pull the key out of the ignition the short disappears. First and easiest item to check is the ignition coil.

24. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive
(+) and negative (−) terminals.
Primary coil resistance:
Cold: 0.36 − 0.55 Ω
Hot: 0.45 − 0.65 Ω
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.

25. INSPECT SECONDARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive
(+) and high−tension terminals.
Secondary coil resistance:
Cold: 9.0 − 15.4 kΩ
Hot: 11.4 − 18.1 kΩ
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.

With the primary coil I have an open circuit and with the secondary coil I have continuity. Ignition coil is definitely bad.

 

[lumbee1]

I did some other wrenching today as well. I gave a tune up to my Sonicare toothbrush. I've noticed lately that the power was not as strong as it used to be and there seemed to be a lot more noise under the hood. I pulled the engine from the body, tightened up the head actuator, and gapped the electromagnet from the driver. Now it purrs like a kitten with loads of power off the line and it didn't cost me anything.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I did some other wrenching today as well. I gave a tune up to my Sonicare toothbrush. I've noticed lately that the power was not as strong as it used to be and there seemed to be a lot more noise under the hood. I pulled the engine from the body, tightened up the head actuator, and gapped the electromagnet from the driver. Now it purrs like a kitten with loads of power off the line and it didn't cost me anything.

I'm a semi-regular toothbrush mechanic as well. Fortunately I haven't had to tune the motors up, but Laura and I have each worn out two sets of rechargable lithium AAA size cell packs. Of course the batteries aren't "field replaceable".

Pull the bodies off, then unsolder the battery packs from the board connections. I bring the packs down to Batteries + Bulbs and they make up custom packs for a couple of bucks with welded tab terminals and everything. Solder the new packs in and voila, works like new again.

$10 total for new packs for each of the two waterpik brushes is waaaaay cheaper than the full replacement waterpik wants.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I had a sonicare toothbrush once...wasn't a fan. Use a regular one ever since (and before) and it seems to keep the cavities and gum disease at bay well enough. My dentist strongly recommends I buy one of the fancy brushes and they will happily sell me one or give me a coupon code for one from the manufacturer (which I'm sure they get a referral fee for)...maybe this should go in the rant thread, lol.

 

[roadstr6]

I had a Sonicare for years and liked it. It got to the point where the battery wouldn't hold a charge so I went back to an old fashioned toothbrush. I'm too cheap to buy another one. The heads are expensive as hell too. I found myself using a head a lot longer than I should have just to avoid paying for a new one. I'm going to stick with the old style. Dentist gives those to me for free after every appointment.

 

[lumbee1]

I had a Sonicare for years and liked it. It got to the point where the battery wouldn't hold a charge so I went back to an old fashioned toothbrush. I'm too cheap to buy another one. The heads are expensive as hell too. I found myself using a head a lot longer than I should have just to avoid paying for a new one. I'm going to stick with the old style. Dentist gives those to me for free after every appointment.

We use the knockoff versions of the Sonicare heads. Really cheap but last 1/2 as long.

 

[shellb]

Tearing in to the new car to fix a couple quirks.

Note the final 4 vin numbers on the back of the wooden dash. Haha!

 

[lt1fire]

Tearing in to the new car to fix a couple quirks.

Note the final 4 vin numbers on the back of the wooden dash. Haha!


View attachment 1933685View attachment 1933686View attachment 1933687View attachment 1933691

Love it

 

[stevezero]

Dats a lotta buttons

 

[jamesurq]

Gotta love British electronics.

Question: Anyone know the size of the nuckle stud nuts on an FJ60? Johnny pointed out that one of the 4 on one side is missing, clearly not a standard Home Depot sized nut...

 

[roadstr6]

Not sure but check them often to make sure they are torqued to spec. They tend to loosen up and the studs snap off when you are in the worst possible location and at that point you are skee rood. I'm pretty sure there should be a cone washer behind each of them, so make sure to get the nut and washer if you need them both.

 

[lumbee1]

I don't know what size they are but you should torque them down to 71ft/lbs.

 

[onemanarmy]

I've been wrenching on my 96 4 runner for a while now, have a O2 sensor check engine light for the rear sensor heater circuit. I've tried to check the wiring, I've replaced the sensor twice (denso part) and sent the computer off for repairing twice. They said they repaired some diodes in the computer, but who really knows. I'd buy a junkyard computer, but my 96 4wd 5speed ECU is hard to find, and who knows if that one would be any good.

Everything was fine, then all of a sudden the CEL came on. Vehicle runs fine otherwise.

So, I've done some digging into the wiring, but I don't have proper electrical trouble shooting equipment. The truck is past due for inspection. Anyone recommend a good mechanic for something like this?

thanks

 

[shellb]

Replaced the heater t’s in the 100. Looks like it’s been awhile for these ones!

Also addressed the drivetrain clunk with some fresh grease.

 

[JohnVee]

Got my basement tv and my bike hung on the wall today. The eagle-eyes among you will notice that I still need to replace a ceiling tile. The super eagle-eyes might notice my 1950’s Farfisa organ holding up the two lamps. None of you are seeing the giant pile of parts, tools, etc along the right hand wall. I’ll admit that it’s there but I damn well won’t show it.

EDIT: I honestly had to articulate the tv way to the left to keep the junk out of the shot!