The Short Rib (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
- Start date
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Got ya 
. Should have put Baileys in ya 
️ this morning 
. Should have put Baileys in ya ️ this morning 
Based on this picture you have an early 60s gear box. The 4 bolt holes are trapezoidal shape vs. later 60s which are rectangle. You can't bolt in a later 60s or 80 box with this hole pattern. Easiest would be to rebuild your existing gear box if you suspect it needs it. Send it to Redhead
What’s the year break down on the steering box differences?
- Thread starter
- #45
Spent a couple hours on it this evening before getting around to dinner. The kids got her washed up decently and ended up hosing out years of mud and dirt out of the inside. The wiring is going to be an adventure, but I enjoy wiring projects. The harness is most likely a Painless as the wires are all labeled (but I can work with that), it's just a rat's nest and installed by hill-jacks. My son and I tackled the rear window and was able to get power to it after removing the jumper wire in the fuse block that was going to the fan relay and installing an actual fuse in that location. Low and behold the key does in fact work and the window sluggishly goes up and down, we were all surprised and happy. I couldn't get the handle to release the latches, but I adjusted the tension rods and it opened! There are some open holes in the wheel wells so mud was packed in the quarter panels. I also discovered the rear roll bar mounts are not bolted in, nice touch. Oh yeah, added some brake fluid to the empty master and the brakes improved but the master is leaking fluid. Great progress so far though and learning what I am working with.
greenbeast
GOLD Star
Fuel tank? Curious what they did for that?
- Thread starter
- #47
Great question, I figured they would have cut down a stock tank since the fuel fill is in the normal spot. Now that the tailgate opens I was able to remove the cover and see it has some type of fuel cell. I just hope it has a fuel sending unit as no fuel gauge will be super lame.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Those tailgate handles are fragile. Lift on the handle but pull on the tailgate to open.
- Thread starter
- #50
Can anyone identify this master/brake booster setup? I can’t find one exactly like, looks to be a later model of some type.
Put one of these boosters in City Racer and one of these master cylinders also City Racer
- Thread starter
- #52
I think the booster is good, will that fj80 master bolt up?
Early 60 boxes are rectangular and then switch to trapezoid style I believe in ‘84. ‘85 and later have trap style including 80 boxes; an 80 stock steering box should be a bolt on to a late 60/62 (assuming no 105 upgrade).
- Thread starter
- #54
Visited the Michigan SOS today and was able to get the 55 registered and plated, a huge relief as there always seems to be hang ups with that process. Dove into the tailgate with my son as well. We got the glass out as well as the regulator assembly to take a look at why the latch is very hard to operate. The handle is not broken (amazingly), but I am pretty sure I am missing some pieces with the latch mechanism? What type of weatherstrip holds the bottom of the glass in the metal channel? I don't think layers upon layers of duct tape would be OEM. Also dug out all of the crud in the bottom of the tailgate and looks to be in great shape. Time to let the Fluid Film flow.
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I'm betting you need to adjust those two rods better. The rods from the handle over to each side. The handle doesn't move much and very little adjustment works. Loosen the connection between the two short rods and pull the one closest to the star gear on the side of the gate. You can see how it disengages, adjust the two rods as needed to disengage it from the star wheel. ( if all that makes sense ).
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks for the info, I will play with the adjustments. Does anything go to the hole circled in red?
Yes, you'll need a long spring and a short rod with clip on it. All the parts you'll need are posted up in the tailgate sticky. Those parts are for safety, I guess. With the parts in place, you have to have the glass ALL the way down in order to open the tailgate. You don't NEED them if you remember to lower the glass before opening. There's a piece on the regulator that the short rod connects to.
One thing I forgot to mention, that piece you circled should be tied back like you have it, otherwise it will rotate and that other end will prevent the handle from opening. You see how it can move, that's what spring does, holds it engaged until the glass comes down and triggers the whole mess letting the handle to work. 
Too many words. 
Too many words. bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
@scrapdaddy da Man
- Thread starter
- #60
Excellent, thanks for that info and I now I see what I am missing.
