Successfully Moved Navigation Screen To Make Room Pioneer AVIC-8200 (1 Viewer)

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In order to completely swap out the Navi for the separate 3 knob rotary or push button requires swapping out the complete sub harness. If you are going to go that route
it is best to have a donor vehicle (wrecked UZJ100) to use for donor harness and other parts from inside the dash. This is because the control and sub computer operation is different due to the differences in analog vs. digital control mechanisms on the touch screen. This thread is good in that it gives you an option to not dig that deep into a retrofit. Simply relocating the screen is much easier.

A little late, but perhaps a climate control panel from an 01-05 Lexus GS or 01-06 Lexus LS will work to control your climate control instead of that oem screen. The Mark Levinson navigation system that comes OEM on these cars are easily swapped out with the climate controls from the base models which have no nav. Then install double DIN. Worth a try to get rid of the screen.
 
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There are rare 03-06 land cruisers with no nav. These have climate controls below. See following link. Might take some homework but the oem landcruiser non nav climate controls may work for you.

Replacing Your Audio System: Overview

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I don't think this option is available in USA. There are intensive discussion of these type of swap here:

Pre 03 Factory NAV to Double Din, Climate Knobs Conversion?
 
We are currently stalled. Stereo shop is busy and speaker box build is taking longer than usual. More updated when we get going again.
 
Pioneer was finally powered up today. USB port for Apple car play was installed in place of the spare power port next to the cigarette lighter. Cigarette be relocated and will eventually be replaced with more USB port for additional phone chargers. Factory mic location was utilized for pioneers microphone. Everything with the radio is functional but no sound yet we are working on installing amplifiers.

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Hello, how did you remove the extra power to install the USB for the pioneer 8200 radio, Also , where did you put the nav antenna, Thanks
 
Hello, how did you remove the extra power to install the USB for the pioneer 8200 radio, Also , where did you put the nav antenna, Thanks

We had to cut or destroy the extra power socket and convert it a USB type used for apple car play. The cigarette lighter was also converted for additional USB charging station. The nav and xm antenna was installed on top of the grill/vent area of the hood (next to the base of the windshield wipers). XM on the left hand and Nav on the right. Since both antennas are black it just blends right in.
 
Picture of the moved screen, I just need to make a face plate. Both AC/Trip information are both fully functional. In addition I added a fan to cool the screen and hopefully prolong its life. I also retained most of the storage under the screen.

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Removed Mark Levinson Amp and Lexus navigation module to make room for Bass amp under driver's seat. 4 Channel Mid/High amp located inside the tail gate.

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Front and Rear Camera are fully functional. I can really get close to a car in front of me.

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Additional USB front and back for charging and apple car play. I just need to paint the rear portion.

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Officially the screen moved with a face plate. Really happy with the end product.

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Subwoofer build is also complete. JL 13" shallow mount powered by PPI A600.2. Very happy with the speaker box for the most part did not loose functionality. I did loose the ability to store the third row seats with the headrest attached and the recline function of the second row seats. With all the space available I could live without reclining the second row seats.


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End State I got rid of Lexus Navigation brain, Mark Levinson Amp, ancient CD Shuttle, and all of factory speakers.

Now I have:

Pioneer Avic-8200NEX with the latest features such as an updatable Navigation System, apple car play, XM Radio, 2 Ipods, Bluetooth audio streaming, Bluetooth phone, built in crossover and equalizer, CD, DVD, AM/FM, and front and rear cameras. Can not even compare to the factory radio.

All steering wheel ontrols for phone and radio are fully functional with Pioneer.

2.5 pairs of USB chargers for kids and wife.

Bass AMP 2 Channels PPI A600.2 running Single JL 13" shallow mount. It does kicks some serious bass!!

Mids/Highs AMP 4 Channels PPI AX404 Running Focal 6 1/2 3-way Polyglass for the Fronts and 6 1/2 Focal 2-way Polygrass for the Rear. Pretty clear sound, blows away the factory junk!!

Functioning AC and AC controls and trip information. For the most part the truck still looks stock inside and I have still have all the space.
 
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This was quite a project.

Another option would have been to use the non-nav LC's HVAC controller/Amplifier but it would have cost 2k in parts to do it plus rewire time.

For those talking non-nav sub harness - that's the plug-n-play way but you can rewire the Nav harness to work with the push button HVAC controller.
 
sometimes I miss my 2000 & that good old AVIC-2 series h/u

that's a rad install, *uuuge* sub. i like how you retained the OEM MFD, would be interested in how easy it is to use after a few months. all occupants must be pleased!
 
sometimes I miss my 2000 & that good old AVIC-2 series h/u

that's a rad install, *uuuge* sub. i like how you retained the OEM MFD, would be interested in how easy it is to use after a few months. all occupants must be pleased!

I own the truck for about 12 years and used the trip information for maybe 20 times and I usually just use the auto function portion of the AC. Using the bottoms below the display. The only reason I kept the OEM MFD is to retain AC functionality. For the most part the OEM MFD is turned off to prolong its life.
 
Great job on the install. Embarrassed to say I didn't know the second row reclined until I read how you couldn't recline after installing the sub... Lol
 
This was quite a project.

Another option would have been to use the non-nav LC's HVAC controller/Amplifier but it would have cost 2k in parts to do it plus rewire time.

For those talking non-nav sub harness - that's the plug-n-play way but you can rewire the Nav harness to work with the push button HVAC controller.

Any idea what it takes to revive the nav harness to work with the push button hvac?
 
Any idea what it takes to revive the nav harness to work with the push button hvac?
In a nut shell one needs to extract wires from the headunit/mfd side of the wire harness and insert them into to replacement connectors to match the push button HVAC controller. The big cost is the parts for the new HVAC amplifier and PCB plus the fiddley parts.
 
Subwoofer build is also complete. JL 13" shallow mount powered by PPI A600.2. Very happy with the speaker box for the most part did not loose functionality. I did loose the ability to store the third row seats with the headrest attached and the recline function of the second row seats. With all the space available I could live without reclining the second row seats.


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hey, i was just shopping for sound deadening material and was looking at that noico stuff but have never heard of it before, got any feedback or specs on the product you went with, dynamat is too rich for my blood so i was looking at fatmat and various others, the noico stuff was by far the cheapest i could find (on amazon,lol) and would really like to go that route if you and your audio guy have good things to say about it.
also do you know which noico stuff that is? i.e. thickness and the rest? i know jack squat about alot of this audio stuff...so the more info the better.

pretty cool install/mod you have going on here, always impressed with the extensive sort of work i see go into projects on this forum.
 

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