That pinkish residue is on other stock toyota hardware that is multiple-use, so it doesn't appear to be thread locker.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day
- Thread starter JamesC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That pinkish residue is on other stock toyota hardware that is multiple-use, so it doesn't appear to be thread locker.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Yeah reduce by 20-25% is the ballpark I’ve used. With what little is left after the cleaning you’ve done I’d squirt a little Loctite in the hole and party on
16-21 used variable load alternator. Will not work properly with AGM batteries or a diode. Use the search, our man @TeCKis300 has written extensively on the subject.
It’s possible with the variations in readings.
Sorry, I did miss your first post. Yes, the black cowl cover is in place between the grill and radiator. I can snap a couple pictures before we leave in a few.
Just out of curiosity, what temps do you typically see? I figured given the fact that the Land Cruiser is all over places like the Middle East that a hot day in Utah shouldn’t be a major challenge. What would you consider a upper time limit on idling and what type of temps would you expect to see while doing so?
Good to see the panel in place so that's not the culprit. Others have had idling heat issues without that in place.
Moving on, assuming the the electric fan in front of the condenser and engine driven fan and clutch behind are in good shape (which should be on a low mileage cruiser)...
I would perhaps suspect the open frontal area of the bumper. Looks like you have the dissent bumper and light bar in grill, both covering some flow. Perhaps when combined with skids, this impacts the airflow enough?
To answer your question, I've idled for hours at a time in summer heat. Even with Intake Air Temps (IAT) and fuel boiling, the engine temps stays stable.
Here's one in Death Valley (under sea level). 176 IAT, but coolant is stable at 199. IIRC, it was probably around 110 degrees out that day. Idling really pegs the IATs as all the engine heat gets pushed out around the car and under the fender where the intake pulls from.
More stressful is often at altitude where the air is thin. Here's at 7k ft. Ambient temp is 88, but IATs peaking at 160. With engine coolant at 194.
I'm still suspecting dust and/or debris in the radiator core.. and here's my reasoning..
Our fan clutch has it's own little thermostat on it. That's the clock spring in front. If temps flowing over it are too high (what's coming through the radiator) it contracts or expands and that manipulates the shaft in the middle which turns something of a valve inside the clutch which moves openings that allow the heavy silicon fluid to move around in the fan clutch. More fluid between the corrugated plates inside the clutch means more friction, and this is what "locks up" the clutch. but it's still a hydraulic clutch.. it'll never really "lock"
Even with a fully locked clutch, it was only idling. Even with the help of the electric fan, it can only draw so much air through the core at idle.. and if you have a bunch of dirt and debris it'll both act as an airflow restriction as well as hamper the base efficiency of the radiator by reducing the effective surface area of the fins and tubes. All of this made worse by the air making it into the core being pre-heated by the AC condensor core sitting right in front of it.
Teckis is right that what seems like a vanity panel above the core support is actually primarily to manage airflow through the heat exchangers.. if that's gone the rig will just recycle some amount of hot air endlessly. I feel quite strongly that people removing this panel or telling others it isn't important are playing with fire. But clearly that wasn't a factor here.
I'd bet if you had revved the engine when you noticed that high water temp the fan would have roared like crazy. It was trying to cool, but couldn't with the low engine RPMs.
@Artie do you still have all of the plastic panels between the inner fender and frame rail? Especially the one on each side in front of the strut assembly?
Also, how much room is there between your skid plate and the lower tank of the radiator? The factory skids have a ~2" square foam block running across, presumably to manage airflow like the panel above the core support. It has always bothered me that aftermarket skids leave this out, if we're really trying to optimize how things work together.
Edit: I found a thread that has detailed pictures of a diesel fan clutch teardown, if you guys are wondering how these things work. I'm pretty confident ours work the same way, only ours will be more robust.
Our fan clutch has it's own little thermostat on it. That's the clock spring in front. If temps flowing over it are too high (what's coming through the radiator) it contracts or expands and that manipulates the shaft in the middle which turns something of a valve inside the clutch which moves openings that allow the heavy silicon fluid to move around in the fan clutch. More fluid between the corrugated plates inside the clutch means more friction, and this is what "locks up" the clutch. but it's still a hydraulic clutch.. it'll never really "lock"
Even with a fully locked clutch, it was only idling. Even with the help of the electric fan, it can only draw so much air through the core at idle.. and if you have a bunch of dirt and debris it'll both act as an airflow restriction as well as hamper the base efficiency of the radiator by reducing the effective surface area of the fins and tubes. All of this made worse by the air making it into the core being pre-heated by the AC condensor core sitting right in front of it.
Teckis is right that what seems like a vanity panel above the core support is actually primarily to manage airflow through the heat exchangers.. if that's gone the rig will just recycle some amount of hot air endlessly. I feel quite strongly that people removing this panel or telling others it isn't important are playing with fire. But clearly that wasn't a factor here.
I'd bet if you had revved the engine when you noticed that high water temp the fan would have roared like crazy. It was trying to cool, but couldn't with the low engine RPMs.
@Artie do you still have all of the plastic panels between the inner fender and frame rail? Especially the one on each side in front of the strut assembly?
Also, how much room is there between your skid plate and the lower tank of the radiator? The factory skids have a ~2" square foam block running across, presumably to manage airflow like the panel above the core support. It has always bothered me that aftermarket skids leave this out, if we're really trying to optimize how things work together.
Edit: I found a thread that has detailed pictures of a diesel fan clutch teardown, if you guys are wondering how these things work. I'm pretty confident ours work the same way, only ours will be more robust.
Hi all
I’ve read every posting on the forum I believe relevant to the fan coupling oil refilling including the mammoth 50+ thread from @landtank and others, and that has been going on now for seems as many years
These have been very helpful indeed but I haven’t quite got answers to a couple of questions. I’ve also posted a heap of photos below in case it helps others in the future.
I acquired a spare viscous coupling. I got a spare fan from a wrecker and they gave me the coupling at the same time, so this is a spare that I’m servicing. When I opened up the two halves it is...
I’ve read every posting on the forum I believe relevant to the fan coupling oil refilling including the mammoth 50+ thread from @landtank and others, and that has been going on now for seems as many years
These have been very helpful indeed but I haven’t quite got answers to a couple of questions. I’ve also posted a heap of photos below in case it helps others in the future.I acquired a spare viscous coupling. I got a spare fan from a wrecker and they gave me the coupling at the same time, so this is a spare that I’m servicing. When I opened up the two halves it is...
Last edited:
This thread just convinced me to put those engine panels back on my LX. I thought they were were just there for looks. Thanks for the info.I'm still suspecting dust and/or debris in the radiator core.. and here's my reasoning..
Our fan clutch has it's own little thermostat on it. That's the clock spring in front. If temps flowing over it are too high (what's coming through the radiator) it contracts or expands and that manipulates the shaft in the middle which turns something of a valve inside the clutch which moves openings that allow the heavy silicon fluid to move around in the fan clutch. More fluid between the corrugated plates inside the clutch means more friction, and this is what "locks up" the clutch. but it's still a hydraulic clutch.. it'll never really "lock"
Even with a fully locked clutch, it was only idling. Even with the help of the electric fan, it can only draw so much air through the core at idle.. and if you have a bunch of dirt and debris it'll both act as an airflow restriction as well as hamper the base efficiency of the radiator by reducing the effective surface area of the fins and tubes. All of this made worse by the air making it into the core being pre-heated by the AC condensor core sitting right in front of it.
Teckis is right that what seems like a vanity panel above the core support is actually primarily to manage airflow through the heat exchangers.. if that's gone the rig will just recycle some amount of hot air endlessly. I feel quite strongly that people removing this panel or telling others it isn't important are playing with fire. But clearly that wasn't a factor here.
I'd bet if you had revved the engine when you noticed that high water temp the fan would have roared like crazy. It was trying to cool, but couldn't with the low engine RPMs.
@Artie do you still have all of the plastic panels between the inner fender and frame rail? Especially the one on each side in front of the strut assembly?
Also, how much room is there between your skid plate and the lower tank of the radiator? The factory skids have a ~2" square foam block running across, presumably to manage airflow like the panel above the core support. It has always bothered me that aftermarket skids leave this out, if we're really trying to optimize how things work together.
Edit: I found a thread that has detailed pictures of a diesel fan clutch teardown, if you guys are wondering how these things work. I'm pretty confident ours work the same way, only ours will be more robust.
Hi all
I’ve read every posting on the forum I believe relevant to the fan coupling oil refilling including the mammoth 50+ thread from @landtank and others, and that has been going on now for seems as many years
I acquired a spare viscous coupling. I got a spare fan from a wrecker and they gave me the coupling at the same time, so this is a spare that I’m servicing. When I opened up the two halves it is...
@TeCKis300 yes, I have Dissent front bumper and skids. Based on your OBD pics I definitely have something going on with cooling. I’m leaning towards @bloc theory of dirt trapped in the radiator as I’ve never had it happen before this one instance.
@bloc the front inner fender/frame rail panels came off with the install of my Kings. I’ve been meaning to try to cut them in a way to allow clearance for the reservoir and install them. Also, I know exactly the foam piece you’re talking about as well as the one on my wife’s LX was in pieces and mostly gone when I pulled that skid for the first oil change I did on it. That was gone along with 9 of the skid bolts… dealership oil change monkey work 100%
I can post some other pictures of the Dissent bumper clearance and under that black engine panel tonight for those interested. I also have a light bar crammed in there so I’m sure that’s hurting air flow. As for revenge the engine… as soon as we started moving the temp dropped like crazy. I feel like dirt is the culprit here. The little it of water I threw at it yesterday has made the temp more stable today while driving, it’s stayed between 187°-190° which is typical for what I’ve observed. It just became dirty enough to cause an issue, I’m just glad I got in when I did because that’s the lamest way to kill a cruiser, I’d never live it down. Everything seems to be fine and it’s driving as I’d expect so I think I’m ok.
@bloc the front inner fender/frame rail panels came off with the install of my Kings. I’ve been meaning to try to cut them in a way to allow clearance for the reservoir and install them. Also, I know exactly the foam piece you’re talking about as well as the one on my wife’s LX was in pieces and mostly gone when I pulled that skid for the first oil change I did on it. That was gone along with 9 of the skid bolts… dealership oil change monkey work 100%
I can post some other pictures of the Dissent bumper clearance and under that black engine panel tonight for those interested. I also have a light bar crammed in there so I’m sure that’s hurting air flow. As for revenge the engine… as soon as we started moving the temp dropped like crazy. I feel like dirt is the culprit here. The little it of water I threw at it yesterday has made the temp more stable today while driving, it’s stayed between 187°-190° which is typical for what I’ve observed. It just became dirty enough to cause an issue, I’m just glad I got in when I did because that’s the lamest way to kill a cruiser, I’d never live it down. Everything seems to be fine and it’s driving as I’d expect so I think I’m ok.
I was browsing through my scanner menu for my '17 Land Cruiser and I came across a fluid degradation reset. Since I'm only doing a drain and fill, does anyone bother with resetting this function? Seems like it's only a counter and I wished it displayed when it was last reset.
Delete
Check the data list for the degradation value.
I would not reset it. We never reset for a drain and fill, I think the manual only specifies resetting it for a complete fluid exchange or a transmission replacement.
Checked my reading when I did a full flush at 35,000 miles. Forgot the exact reading, but the reading was really low, like almost new. Didn't bother to reset.
If it's the same idea as in the P cars, it's a counter (in the transfer case) that keeps track of clutch slippages and at what engine torque this occurred.. When you change the tranny fluid (make sure the fluid is at the correct temp) there is a procedure to calibrate it.
As for the transfer case the readout should tell you if that fluid needs to be changed. I did a write up on that on rennlist if any P owners are interested please PM me.
siberian
As for the transfer case the readout should tell you if that fluid needs to be changed. I did a write up on that on rennlist if any P owners are interested please PM me.
siberian
Made it home today and watched the temp gauge and OBD Fusion gauge. It stayed between 187°-194° almost the entire time, ambient temps 90-95°. An hour before our house we cross north Georgia mountains and temps varied between 174°-199°, ambient temp was 80-90° depending on the rain. It’s a lot of climbs so oil reached 210° as did the tranny pan, torque converter was as high as 250°. When these temps were high my coolant temp was 174°-184° and once it jumped from 174° right to 184° with no building, the dash gauge never moved. This occurred over an hour of several ascents and descents.
I’m not sure if this is normal and if yall see this or not. It could be the fact that I’m just watching it closer than usually and it’s some Heisenberg uncertainty shenanigans.
I’m not sure if this is normal and if yall see this or not. It could be the fact that I’m just watching it closer than usually and it’s some Heisenberg uncertainty shenanigans.
That all sounds normal to me, or at least similar to my experiences here in the mountain west.
On a 2017 LX, all the usual fuses to tap seem to provide power even when the car is off (cig, invert, etc.) Any recommendations for the driver side fuses to use?
On my 2018 TLC there’s one labeled “Winch”.
Thanks. When I searched the forum, I saw mention of that, but I think it was the passenger fuse panel. I might take a look over there after all.
Might have misunderstood. The fuse I used is in the engine bay. Sorry for any confusion.