SBC conversion expertise needed (1 Viewer)

[thebigredrocker]

Background:
1976 FJ40
Stock 4 speed and transfer case
Downey bell housing
Centerforce clutch
Chevy .327
2" EMU lift
Inside, Underside & firewall Line-x'ed
Saginaw conversion planned

Previous restore #1 did motor mounts & transfer crossmember for a sbc. I'm #3 to attempt this restoration.

I found out the motor is a bit too far forward when I mounted the Radiator. I purchased a Flex-i-Lite slimline fan to address that. I'm finding more issues now as I progress.

The issue I just discovered is the shift tower is under the heater & not even close to lining up with the tranny cover holes. The measurements that I've determined would allow for the shift tower to clear the heater and align with the tranny cover holes is 3 1/2"s.

So far I've been trying to do everything as correct as I can figure out. Someone suggested I cut the recessed firewall and make it flush to move the heater forward. I'd also have to agressivly modify my stock rhino lined tranny cover. I can see this may be a possibility but it makes my gut churn to consider hacking things up.

Here's what's swirling in my head. Get some different bolt on motor mounts. If I can get firestein motor mounts would they reach up far enough to keep the motor from sinking any lower in the frame? Do I need to have Transfer case mounts welded on or are there some I can bolt on? I would like to leave the tub on if that's do-able. Can I hook the engine to my cherry picker and support the tranny with a rolling jack to slide the drivetrain into position? I just received a saginaw mount kit & sweet custom bumper from 4x4labs. I have spoken to a local mobile welder who said he would weld that stuff up for me. So if weld on motor mounts/transfer mounts are the way to go I could ask my local guy if he'd be up for that too. I know that could get spendy though.

Issues with a 3.5" move that I can see are:
-passenger side ram horn hitting firewall. If 3.5" back is determined by my MUD mentors to be the way to go, how would I resolve lack of room here?

-passenger side valve cover hitting firewall (I will not hesitate purchasing different covers if the exist)

Is there a bellhousing that would allow me to move the motor back less yet shove the tranny into a better position?

I live in Washington State. I have entertained the thought of finding a Landcruiser shop nearby to get me over this hurdle.

I know this is alot to ask and I am greatful for all kindness extended to me from the MUD community.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Here's some pictures

 

[thebigredrocker]

 

[bikersmurf]

Your motor is where it should be. Too close to the firewall and it'll overheat.

Option 1) change top cover to a 60 series 4speed cover which will move it back about 3.5".

Option 2) cut a new hole and bend your shifter (the route I went)

Here is a thread with a ton of pics and measurements of mine and others --->https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sbc-swap-with-manual-steering.448066/page-2

Drive shafts are within 1" of being the same length. Been working awesome for 18+ years.

 

[whitey45]

Best way is to cut off the 4 brackets and move everything back. I ussually leave an inch between the valve cover and firewall on the pass side. Just did one a couple of weeks ago and the shifter is very close to original. Dont even considor any other way, a good welder fabricator could do this in a couple hours.

 

[jim land]

you need to heat and bend the shift lever to clear the heater , im sure someone have a pic to show you

 

[whitey45]

Never had any overheating issues, ran a bigblock chevy for 15 years and never once boiled over? Too many conversions have inadequit cooling systems, I have never thought the too close to firewall theory causes overheating? Too far foward and running an electric fan is a good way to overheat!

 

[bikersmurf]

you need to heat and bend the shift lever to clear the heater , im sure someone have a pic to show you

There's a pic of mine in the thread I linked to above.

 

[bikersmurf]

Never had any overheating issues, ran a bigblock chevy for 15 years and never once boiled over? Too many conversions have inadequit cooling systems, I have never thought the too close to firewall theory causes overheating? Too far foward and running an electric fan is a good way to overheat!

I don't have any personal experience with overheating. In 96, I followed the directions in the Downey & Advance Adapters conversion manuals, and haven't had problems with a 300 hp, 350 with a recorded 3 core Rad. Initially it started to boil when wheeling at idle speed 600 rpm, at 700 it cooled down again. After changing to a somewhat smaller water pump pulley, I've had no further problems. So many have had problems with overheating and too much heat coming through the firewall, I'd not risk it. There's an easy solution to fix the shifter problem, and complete the Restomod.

 

[whitey45]

I dont like the shifter coming out under the heater with a bunch of bends. That flexillite fan will not flow enough cfm and you need room for a proper fan shroud with the fan halfway protruding into the shroud, none can be accomplished with that engine location.I have had great luck with the 70's chevy truck 4 blade fan, it flows a ton of air!

 

[White Stripe]

Get the right top cover for the trans and sell yours to recoup some of the money. Then make adjustments from their for moving your mounts around.

 

[Rock_Hugger]

I would remount the engine rearward so you can run a real fan and a fan shroud. Like Whitey said, with approx. 1" from the passenger side valve cover to the firewall. I would also highly recommend ditching those motor mounts and going to a different style, those can separate when they fail.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Thanks for all the helpfull ideas.

Bikersmurf, I prefer the option 1. Will any year 60 series cover work? Is a FJ62 an option? Do I just pull my old cover off and bolt the 60 on. That sounds too good to be true.

Thanks fellas

 

[bikersmurf]

I've not done it, and I know not just any 60 series core works. There are threads on it, and the key is finding the aluminum top cover that has the same bolt pattern... And then it should just bolt on.

 

[bikersmurf]

Theres a picture in the thread 'need to move my fj40 shifter back'

 

[bikersmurf]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/60-series-4-spd-tranny-top-for-40-series.439764/

 

[jim land]

your valve cover are to far from the firewall like other said ,but you still need a solution for the shifter , i dont have any trouble with my bend shifter but finding the rigth cover for h42 is an option or go h55 as the lever is in the rear part

 

[shelfboy1]

motor is to high in the frame ,lower it down and move it back where you want ive done and run every v8 conversion there is and never had an overheat problem with the motor close to the firewall ,there are motor mounts that bolt to the motor and sit on the frame and use rubber doughnuts .i think downey or advance adaptors has them

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Your motor is where it should be. Too close to the firewall and it'll overheat.

Option 1) change top cover to a 60 series 4speed cover which will move it back about 3.5".

Option 2) cut a new hole and bend your shifter (the route I went)

Here is a thread with a ton of pics and measurements of mine and others --->https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sbc-swap-with-manual-steering.448066/page-2

Drive shafts are within 1" of being the same length. Been working awesome for 18+ years.

I feel your pain - and Bikersmurf is pointing you in the right direction. My V8 conversion, performed by the PO, is probably the worst anyone has ever seen. It's probably 4-5 inches too far forward. I just picked up a transmission cover off of an early 80's FJ60. I think you need one from a 1980-82 or 83. You can tell it's the right one because it is aluminum (as opposed to cast iron) but the bolt pattern is the same as the top of the 40-series 4-speed.

This will gain you about 3 inches. Otherwise, to have the V8 properly oriented in the bay, you will need to dog-leg the shifter under the heater.

You don't want to mount the engine too far rearward. Mounting it too close to the firewall will prevent proper airflow around the block, and cause overheating issues.

It's also not uncommon to have to lower the radiator mounts in order to align the radiator to the engine.

 

[reddingcruiser]

That's why I like my 700R4. The shifter is right where I put it. The Lokar shifter comes right out the OEM hole, looks like a manual shift lever and confuses more than one person when the try to find the clutch pedal. On that note - I am with Bikersmurf. I've used the Downey and AA locations used for (I'm dating myself) 32 years on plenty of rigs with no problems. Yes, you have to bend the shifter, but considering everything else you did to get the engine and trans in, it's small potatoes.