SBC conversion expertise needed (1 Viewer)

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I did not take the time to read all of the above post, but I did read your original post.
(1) Send snail mail address for my freebie V8 installation instruction manual if you have not yet done so !!!!!!!!!
(2) Your motor needs to go rearward about 1 1/2", and then you need to put a dog leg into your shift lever to clear heater.
(3) Your front motor mounts are poo poo, they will rip out the rubber cushions bolted to the block. Since you need to re-motor mount anyway, use my motor mount kit (or equivalency) that puts the cushion down at the frame where it does not get mover around so much.

I can go on and on with stories, history, and parts, but this info will get you started on the right path for now.
 

thebigredrocker

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Anyone know who might have a aluminum (80-83) 60 series top transmission cover or who I could call? Thanks
 

RWBeringer4x4

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Anyone know who might have a aluminum (80-83) 60 series top transmission cover or who I could call? Thanks

I got mine off a blown FJ60 transmission from Georg at Valley Hybrids. Not sure if he has any more, but it would be worth giving him a call or PM. I don't have his number but he is @orangefj45 on this forum.

Mark Algazy also has a cruiser boneyard, and he might have one available. He's not on Mud very often. Apparently, the best way to reach him is to call him. Here is his website: http://www.marksoffroad.net/index2.html

Otherwise, digging around the classifieds might help.
 
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Why do V8 swapers move the trans forward? Is it just to get the fan closer to the radiator? or is it clearance with the heads/firewall?

I'm re-doing a basket case V8 FJ40 and don't have the benefit of seeing a stock FJ40 to know what it should look like. I'm using a late FJ60 4 speed, so it looks like the shifter location on that trans will be a plus, but It has the spacer that pushes the t-case back. I'm not sure what to use as the most important feature to line up.....
 

RWBeringer4x4

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Think about the shape of a V8 engine - you have two banks of 4 cylinders, instead of 6 cylinders in a line, like the original Toyota Inline 6 engine. As a result, the V8 engine is wider, but 2 cylinders "shorter" than an inline 6. You need to mount the engine further up in the bay, in order to get the fan close enough to the radiator to be able to pull air around the engine, which winds up with the engine mounted forward in the bay, as compared to the Inline 6. Since the rest of the driveline was designed with the length of an inline 6 in mind, it results in everything getting pulled forward.

The FJ60 4 speed transmission tower is further back on the transmission. My guess is that this is because, even though the engine bay/engine were roughly the same, the FJ60's dash was probably deeper, and they didn't feel like redesigning the transmission. Solution: just redesign the top cover and move the shift tower to gain the extra 3 inches.

There are dozens of threads and pictures with good examples of the engine mounting locations. There are small variations, but @bikersmurf has a thread with a lot of the measurements included. From what I've seen, if you mount the V8, with the FJ60 transmission behind it, you will essentially be right where the stock shifter should be, or a TOUCH forward, but not up under the heater. Adding a spacer between the transmission and transfercase would then only shorten your rear driveshaft, and potentially force you to change where/how the transfer case shift-arm mounts to get it back up through its stock hole in the transmission cover. However, those spacers are usually not super thick, so you might be able to get away without changing the T-case shifter much, just the rear driveshaft.

You do want to make sure you're not mounting the V8 TOO close to the firewall - while you'll get the shifters closer to where you want it, the airflow around the engine won't be good, and you'll wind up overheating your V8.

Disclaimer: I haven't DONE this yet, but I too have a basketcase V8 FJ40, so I've done a lot of research. Just sharing what I've learned!
 
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Rick just hit the nail on the head. Guys move engine rearward for better shifter location, then they run 240 degrees all day long with engine crammed into firewall (zero air flow behind engine). Engine heat radiates out back of engine, hits firewall, then bounces right back into engine. You need fan blade to be able to exhaust heat out the tranny tunnel. Also,as mentioned above, V8 is much shorter motor, ends up too far away from radiator, even with engine forward you normally have to bring the radiator rearward (and downward centered in front of the fan blade).
 

RWBeringer4x4

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Rick just hit the nail on the head. Guys move engine rearward for better shifter location, then they run 240 degrees all day long with engine crammed into firewall (zero air flow behind engine). Engine heat radiates out back of engine, hits firewall, then bounces right back into engine. You need fan blade to be able to exhaust heat out the tranny tunnel. Also,as mentioned above, V8 is much shorter motor, ends up too far away from radiator, even with engine forward you normally have to bring the radiator rearward (and downward centered in front of the fan blade).

Just regurgitating what I learned from you! haha
 
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And while I'm on my soap box, this is also why I don't like electric fans. Most electric fans do not have the air flow cfm a Chevota requires (although many on Mud are ok with their electric fans). I don't believe ANY electric fan can create the absolute hurricane needed inside a Chevota engine compartment to blow all the heat out the tranny tunnel !!!!
 
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So, my setup changes things, but I have a TBI 305 and an NV4500...so I moved everything forward only to get the shift tower in the stock location, and to make sure my parking brake drum can be removed and clear the cross member... obviously this changes a lot of things. I will add that I have a Chevy dump truck fan. a 7-bladed flex fan, no room for a fan clutch or even electric. but I have had no issues with cooling on the beach in low gear for hours at a time, or on the trail. As mentioned above, make sure the motor isn't mounted too high or low in the frame, and visit Advance Adapters website and DL the Landcruiser Conversion manual (Whether you use their parts or not, they have a lot of the factors/placements listed in the manual) **THERE IS NO ONE CORRECT WAY TO PUT A V8 IN AN FJ40**

you can see pictures in my signature line if anything is useful...
 

thebigredrocker

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Thanks Guys, I always thought the coolant running through the motor was what kept it at the proper temp. I'm still learning every day. I didn't realize airflow around all sides of the motor was absolutely critical. Makes sense.

As of right now I have a 60 series top cover on order. That hopefully will allow me to not move the engine & tranny. I recon' I will still need to have someone fab me up a T-Case shifter as it's still under the dash. I would like it to come out the hole of my stock hump if that's possible. I haven't done searches on that yet, that'll be next.
 
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What about using a Ranger OD/UD as a 'spacer' to move the transmission back 4.5"?
That way you get the transmission futher back, you don't have to dog leg the shifter, and you get an OD at the same time?
 

whitey45

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The firewall issue is nonsense, if every vehicle needed 3 inches between the firewall for proper cooling, there would be no cars on the road, as most engines are crammed into there engine compartments from the factory. A good solid cooling system is all that is needed. I ran a built 402 bb chevy in my 45 pickup for 15 years, engine was 1 inch from the firewall, 5 row rad, good fan, shroud,never once overheated, even when on the rubicon, idling for 12 hours! I am confused to all the overheat problems so many seem to know or have?
 
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The firewall issue is nonsense, if every vehicle needed 3 inches between the firewall for proper cooling, there would be no cars on the road, as most engines are crammed into there engine compartments from the factory. A good solid cooling system is all that is needed. I ran a built 402 bb chevy in my 45 pickup for 15 years, engine was 1 inch from the firewall, 5 row rad, good fan, shroud,never once overheated, even when on the rubicon, idling for 12 hours! I am confused to all the overheat problems so many seem to know or have?
Lucky you !!!
 

whitey45

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It cant be luck, as I have done a dozen conversions over the years and never had overheat issues? That being said, i have seen tons of really bad conversions!
 
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I can see how you could cool it with a 5 core custom rad... With a stock 3 core rad (even a high density) you'd likely overheat.

Height wise, the Downey motor mounts I used sat atop '1"x2" lumber' sitting on the frame rails (5/8" off). Mine's much lower than many, but that makes for a lower center of gravity and less driveshaft angle.
 
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Whitey, I'm only basing my comments on selling 165 V8 conversion kits per month for roughly 30 years, many of them to people who lived in southwest desert areas. Seems like every summer when the temps reach 90 to 110 degrees the guys with engines crammed into the firewall had heating problems= = = just saying.

Bikersmurf, only problem I see with lowering the engine too much is clearance between front harmonic balancer and front diff ????
 

777Gage

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Downey,
Sorry for the highjack
I have a 75 with a V8 conversion, all stock Toyota behind it. (was told it has AA gear in it)
I spent quite a few hours last tying to figure out my over heating issues. Whoever the PO was who put the conversion in also notched out the fender wells to fit the V8 size radiator. Instead of trying to source all the stock brackets and mounts for a FJ40 radiator I just bought a new V8 radiator from Champion. I tried the dual 14 inch electric fans, worked great around town but temp crept up on the highway. I got rid of that set-up and went heavy duty fan clutch and 7 blade offset mid 70's corvette fan. Moves a LOT of air and doesn't overheat anymore even with out a shroud.

However, I want to add a shroud. What I do notice is where my motor sits, the fan is actually a couple of inches lower than the bottom of the radiator and I've got 2 inches from the fan to the radiator. What do you recommend as far a shroud, custom made or something worse, moving the motor.....yikes

Thanks!
 
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I agree there's a potential problem area. Mine's mounted as high on the frame as the Downey motor mounts would allow without them not being floating off the frame. I had a NASCAR certified welder weld scab plates to the frame, and then installed the mounts to the top edge of the frame.

There's more than 1.5" more clearance between the diff and the harmonic balancer and the axle and the bumps stops. If the front end came down hard enough to push compress the bump stops 1.5", I'd have more to worry about than the harmonic balancer.
 

777Gage

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Spotcruiser,
Great work, I may get around to that......just had the clutch go out in the Orielly's parking lot.....towing it home later. CRAP!
 

RAYJON

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This is alot of really good info


You can fix alot of bad swaps with a Taurus fan, I really like them, they move a lot of air .. or if you run a custom mounting with a larger radiator- I run a summit 3 core with a lincoln mk8 fan.


The airflow is important, when i first did the lincoln fan and put it on high it moves alot of air every little hole had air blowing out. fj40 engine compartment with a v8 blocks alot of air flow out of the engine compartment..


Anything you can do to help that improves cooling. Either more radiator or more fan..


Whitey's example of new cars is a good one in that they use a cooling system with airflow designed into it.. you have to use a design that works.
 

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