Saving 74 Jeep from the Jeepers

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The cluster I used earlier to compare is gone. So I looked around and found a seat frame. This is the best thing I have with original paint that I can compare it to. It should be real close to original since its been covered with upholstery since new. I did not have any wax so it was cleaned with some 409 cleaner.

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nice. I just tested out some on a part and think it may just need an added layer of clearcoat to top it off. But very close. Im contemplating doing the rims as well to get rid of the all black
 
added layer of clearcoat


I think that may be an important part of using that Stainless Steel colored spray, I have used the same paint on a number of parts.
 
The cluster I used earlier to compare is gone. So I looked around and found a seat frame. This is the best thing I have with original paint that I can compare it to. It should be real close to original since its been covered with upholstery since new. I did not have any wax so it was cleaned with some 409 cleaner.

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Thanks... it looks like a very good option. I have seen more variation between different years of Fj4* series parts that all appeared to be OEM.

I like your voltmeter face solution, I may have to do something similar... I’d been planning on just using the round face with numbers and extending it to avoid light leakage.
 
I used the small autometer volt gauge body. Cut the bottom a little from an old oil pressure gauge face. Had to enlarge and move the mounting holes some. Then painted the needle. 30 minutes at most doing it. I think there are some pictures on my build post. Can take more pics if your interested.
 
I used the small autometer volt gauge body. Cut the bottom a little from an old oil pressure gauge face. Had to enlarge and move the mounting holes some. Then painted the needle. 30 minutes at most doing it. I think there are some pictures on my build post. Can take more pics if your interested.

I’ve mounted a Faria voltmeter in a cluster... I haven’t done the faceplate yet. It has been a project long in the making. I bought vinyl letters from a mud member and repainted the black. My speedometer now reads correctly for 33s and 3.70 gears.
 
Can you let us know how the Stainless steel paint works out?

I like how the stainless paint worked out-here’s some shots : (In the Last pic -only the floor to seat mount portions were painted-the rest of the seat frames weren’t)

I definitely like it a lot better than the black.

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View attachment 1736573 then I ordered up a $60 waxed canvas tarp from Tarpsnow.com. I let it sit in the sun a few days to air it out and flattena bit —-then broke out the girlfriends biggest needle and some UVthread......and got to hand canvas welding *man-sewing*. ;)


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The Canvas tarp looks very good. Tarpsnow has a sale on now.... what size did you order? I’ve got a rear rollbar hoop that could function much like your FST frame.

Someday I’d like to have a FST, but it rains so much here, 9 months of the year, it's hard to justify the cost to buy a soft top. Someday I’d like to ‘man sew’ & weld up one.
 
Seeing those splits makes me wish mine had been salvageable. I had made arrangements to sell them, however when I had the tires removed to ship them, I found they were super rusted inside. I felt bad about the deal, but the buyer seemed to understand. I even offered them to him for free, but given the condition he didn’t want them (Which was perfectly understandable).

After seeing how Landcruiser splits are designed, I’d not hesitate to use them. They aren’t like other splits I’ve seen... they are very secure.
 
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I initially only got a small one to fit the bikini top portion.......it was either 5x7 or 6x8 (forgot). BUT tarps now states the sizes are roughly sized. Mine has shrunk a lot but I had planned to droop way over in the rear so that I could lose some in shrinkage.
 
Splits are pretty easy once you get the hang of em.......and get over the hassle of futzing with the tubes and liners orientation. I ended up having to redo two of em as the first time I didn’t like the orientation of the valves in the hole.

Im hoping to move the rear axle back a touch to squeeze in an older dual cardan shaft I have laying around to reduce some vibes from p.o.’s spring setup
 
Any updates on this one? :)
 
Any updates on this one? :)


No updates...its been sitting in my carport waiting for me to tackle drum brake rebuild. In the interim ive picked up another front axle for its Warn long body hubs and good brakes. so the plan is to either swap in this whole axle and brakes.....or completely tear apart the original axle and remove the ascos and brakes and install the good stuff while rebuilding the entire axle.

i did find some running boards- but havent had any luck finding the frame/running board connectors/supports. (If anyone has a set- im looking/buying.!!! )
 
No updates...its been sitting in my carport waiting for me to tackle drum brake rebuild. In the interim ive picked up another front axle for its Warn long body hubs and good brakes. so the plan is to either swap in this whole axle and brakes.....or completely tear apart the original axle and remove the ascos and brakes and install the good stuff while rebuilding the entire axle.

i did find some running boards- but havent had any luck finding the frame/running board connectors/supports. (If anyone has a set- im looking/buying.!!! )
I have have a set of running boards and the supports, everything was powder coated black though. I'll look for them tonight
 
Pulled everything apart - and tons of cleaning- stripping- and repainting. the front cylinders were much worse than the rears which i was able to hone and rebuild. After some time in the vise and prybar i was able to get both pistons freed, but the rust/pitting i deemed the fronts throwaways.......and called up CruiserOutfitters to order up new cylinders/ axle rebuild kits and some 555TRE Kit. Selectros were in so-so shape- so i pulled some older Warn barrel hubs /M47D's from a spare 74 axle i had laying around and they were in pretty good shape.

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