Rear Camera relocation kits?

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Ordered a cheap Tacoma 2009-2013 camera off Amazon for the male end, hoping it’s like the oem part where the male end has a base plate but then connects to the camera pcb stack using a micro jst connector anyways.

If I do end up making a kit for others to buy, it will involve 2 sections, on end with the male from the hatch to the back left of headliner, some 1:1 wagos there then another piece from outside spare tire carrier/bumper etc. That way one can pull nearly bare cable through the holes easily from both sides. 4 core single cable helps too.

Lowkey was thinking of putting in a 4pdt switch and just having to said cheap camera to the spare carrier with extension, then hit the switch to revert back to oe location for mall crawling. But meh, undecided.

Not enough coffee in me yet for better sentence formation, sorry 😀
If I had the ability to switch it would be because I’d wired a second camera to the back of my trailer and wanted to see that instead of backing up and just seeing the front of my trailer instead of what’s actually behind it 🤣
 
Well, rolling with the punches. Connector came in last night, all good there with pinning it myself to some 4-lead wire.

But man, the Victory 4x4 Relocation bracket dimensioning and supplied hardware is a frustrating mess. Paid $270 for I don’t know what exactly. Attached just two sample pics of the camera screw placement not working and the connector is not “quick” disconnect like it’s meant to be if you have to actually swap the spare.

But onto interesting problems, the cheaper $20ish camera I bought off Amazon seems to be a crisper image quality. Nice. But then I wanted to keep oem camera and just use this $20 cam for its male connector. So open it up and bam, it’s a fully soldered black box with only 3 internal red wires! 🫣 marked V G and P if anyone knows what they are.

Next plan is to use the male connector off the oem camera, female jst ph (matched the yellow, red white, black) , marry that to the 4 lead wire, tuck all that into a 3d printed back cover. Let’s see.

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Oh camera side pics, forgot to add those to earlier post.

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Well, rolling with the punches. Connector came in last night, all good there with pinning it myself to some 4-lead wire.

But man, the Victory 4x4 Relocation bracket dimensioning and supplied hardware is a frustrating mess. Paid $270 for I don’t know what exactly. Attached just two sample pics of the camera screw placement not working and the connector is not “quick” disconnect like it’s meant to be if you have to actually swap the spare.

But onto interesting problems, the cheaper $20ish camera I bought off Amazon seems to be a crisper image quality. Nice. But then I wanted to keep oem camera and just use this $20 cam for its male connector. So open it up and bam, it’s a fully soldered black box with only 3 internal red wires! 🫣 marked V G and P if anyone knows what they are.

Next plan is to use the male connector off the oem camera, female jst ph (matched the yellow, red white, black) , marry that to the 4 lead wire, tuck all that into a 3d printed back cover. Let’s see.

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The only thing that would make sense is that the ground (G) is shared and the P is 12dc power and the (V) is the video signal
 
Just FYI you can just use a CAT-6 computer cable & spice the wires and use RJ45 connectors.
That is what i did on mine.
 
Sorry for the no update, I have the camera extension working great!
After researching a bunch, I settled on Deustch connectors for waterproofing and ease of crimping.
1. Cut the factory harness before camera plug, add male deustch 4-pin connector to harness (there’s only actually 3 wires, pink white black, so 3 pin also ok). Wrap with electric tape or shrinking wire wrap (Corsa Technica 1/2in worked great for me)
2. Add female deustch connector to the tiny pigtail with the camera plug. Heat shrink tubing and shrinking wire wrap. 1/2 beer break.
3. Add female deustch to 4-wire cable, I used 20 ft 4x16 gauge stranded molded inside another rubber layer to make a single cable.
4. Snake cable along hatch factory wiring, poke through the left grommet and enter hatch. 1/2 beer break.
5. Go right at hatch and snake into the metal behind the rear motorized hatch arm.
6. Drop the cable with some wire wrap through existing grommet in floor of trunk. Just keep pushing it through, you will see it around the AHC reservoir once you’ve pushed about 2-3ft through. 1/2 beer and maybe bandaid for any sheet metal cuts you have endured along the way so far.
7. From there you can snake it to your bumper / hitch mount receiver.
8. Put a male end on the this cable once at camera location, connect the little “conversion” cable you made in step.
9. Put in reverse and test. Finish beer, do not drive.


I didn’t want to go RJ-45 as I have not had good experiences with frequently bending cat cable and keeping the thin strands from internally breaking. Granted that was 10 years ago and probably older cable tech, but still once bit twice shy.

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Now onto building a custom harness to piggyback on tow connector factory plugs, and provide power + brake + reverse signals to the victory 4x4 license plate light and the Diode Dynamics Hitch mount pod.

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"Marine grade Cat-6" is much different than what you are thinking about.

These cables are built to be rugged, waterproof, oil-resistant, and flexible, ensuring reliable data connectivity on boats and other marine vessels. They also often include shielding to reduce electromagnetic interference.
 
Is this the Victory bracket? I've got an idea to mount it to my ladder with some t-track and it looks like this may be exactly what I'm looking for.

What did you use to blank out the OEM camera location on the hatch?
Yes it is!

I bought a cheap $30 replacement off Amazon and left the oem where it was 😛 was the easy way out compared to creating something in CAD and 3d printing it. Lol.
 
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