rear body mounts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I have never been a fan of rivnuts for structural fastening. Mainly because you cant inspect the fold on the other side often.
Ive installed hundreds of thousands of these! Whith both hand and air tools, from #8s up to half inch! When installed correctly theyll last forever 🤔😉
 
Well I ordered those welded ones. In the meantime I made these. I think they will work.
BBFF9979-9C3D-4F0C-979D-7C27D8E9C590.jpeg


I figure 4 on the verticle to the frame and 3 across the horizontal to the mount. It’s a stock crossmember.
 
I remember the other issue I found with heads and headers. The heads are offset and covered that but the exhaust valve is forward on the passenger side and the intake valve is forward on driver. The offset of the heads keeps it from being extreme but it was the issue I had with the engine mounts and the header. See diagram. 

Screenshot_20220305-222529_Samsung Notes.webp
 
The idea of hanging this engine is extremely nervous for me. Had always imagined that I would be having someone else doing it. My biggest fear is that I weld everything in and take it for a drive and have all kinds of vibration from being Dummy Doorknob with my great ability to repeatedly miss measure. I am going to try to get someone with more experience to look it over before I burn everything in.

I guess its all part of the ride. :/

go-for-it-you-can-do-it.gif
 
Had done some moving around. Three spots of interest

Where the stick was centered in the tunnel cover
Clearances between the steering pump pulley and passenger side exahust
Equal distance from the rear of the head to firewall on drivers side compaired to passenger side.

Every time that I got the stick right and the steering pump pully right I would find that the was about a 3/4" in diference between the heads and the firewall. gerrrrrr

Then I did some rereading and notice that Megadommer had different measurements between the two heads and the firewall. I was thinking that those had to be the same to make sure that the engine was running straight front to back.

Maybe that isnt a problem?
You know that in a V8 the 2 banks have a small offset, eh?
The con-rods cannot occupy the same space on the crank journals... They have to operate next to each other.
 
as Bob would say it’s only metal...can always adjust it.
Yep! Not like we are doing brain surgery in here!!!

And, if you do your projects anything like I do them, you will do it twice anyway!
I always try to be so careful and clever, and then I finally commit to a course of action.
Then, a few steps later, I realize my cleverness was not clever enough to think of something, so I have to go back and tear a bunch of stuff out and start over.
That's how I do it!
 
then again a few months later to change the starter for new in the Verizon parking lot.
Some good times in the Verizon parking lot...

I can just see the little kids walking past you replacing the starter, "Mommy, why is that man saying bad words?"
 
Where to start. Being clever might be good.

Got the car level as best I could. Save you that challenge.
Took my new mounts and got everything where it needed to be. Marked the frame where I wanted to drill my giant holes. Cool.
While I wait for the nutcerts I should get ahead and drill out the cross member holes.
Hell yeah got that done.

Got the nutcerts and realized that the crossmember holes did not take into account the collar of the nutcerts. Now all holes 1/4” off. :(
No worries I got a welder. Haha just fill them and redrill. Love the welding not so much the grinding but that is now behind me.

Woke up this morning with big intentions. Many jobs to get done today! First of which is get these mounts in.

Started on the passenger side. Pulled the engine out and drilled the first two aft holes. Not too bad with the exception of the drill catching a couple times and smashing my fingers. Loved that!

Started w the front two and realized that there was one of those inner frame supports right where my hole was. Smashed around for a while but got the holes drilled so that the inch long nutcerts could slide in.
Went to put all four in with the bracket and realized that the inner support had pushed my drilling thw hole a 1/4” foward!!!
How to rid myself of the inner support and rectify the pooey hole.
After MUCH MUCH time and pain I pulled out a hammer, a smashing rod, and the plasma cutter my buddy stores at my house and clearanced that s***!! I got a welder I’ll just fill in my pooeyness!

Driverside went straight foward. Thank God!

With some luck I think this will do. Actually with or without it this will do. Hope that it’s right!

9493AD5B-7537-4460-8654-E4539A27BCBF.webp


1BD432BE-6AB3-41C1-BBC3-F17DCEAA13BB.webp


90775AB3-7720-4E81-829D-BE989D6FC9C9.webp


1583EF10-2886-4C31-B57F-5B1FCE2EA9DB.webp


I think it looks cool if that counts for anything.

My go to- black paint and a bunch of mud and it will look pro.
 
Back
Top Bottom