rear body mounts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Christiaan,

I believe the picture you posted of the headers are what they call center dump block huggers. Not that it matters what they are called, you have the right ones. I was nervous too when putting in the motor and I still think I could of positioned it better or used prefabbed mounts instead of making my own. All second guessing, but it's good to be nervous makes you think about it more and catch any mistakes.
 
Man, wish I could get back over there to give you another set of eyes. I’m pretty confident you’ve got it. Maybe make a list of everything you can think of that you need to double and triple measure, and then let it ferment for a week or so just to give yourself time to think if there’s anything else you need to account for. No sense in rushing at this point.
 
Had done some moving around. Three spots of interest

Where the stick was centered in the tunnel cover
Clearances between the steering pump pulley and passenger side exahust
Equal distance from the rear of the head to firewall on drivers side compaired to passenger side.

Every time that I got the stick right and the steering pump pully right I would find that the was about a 3/4" in diference between the heads and the firewall. gerrrrrr

Then I did some rereading and notice that Megadommer had different measurements between the two heads and the firewall. I was thinking that those had to be the same to make sure that the engine was running straight front to back.

Maybe that isnt a problem?
 
What about the degree of rake the motor will be at? Some say 3 to 5 degrees slope towards the back. I did that, but then your transfer case output shaft isn't at the same angle as the rear pinion, something else to think over. Some say with the long driveshaft a couple degrees difference won't be noticed. I tried a double cardan joint, but that caused some extra vibrations. So it goes, on and on and on......:)
 
I don’t think it’s necessary for the engine to sit absolutely square in the bay. I think as square as you can get it in relation to the other immovable features, works. Especially considering this is an GM engine hooking up to a Toyota transmission in an 80 series chassis with a 55 body. Not like this was blueprinted on a drafting table.
 
If your worried about indecision paralysis just look at my build updates...yeah you got this.

As odd as it sounds, this has all been done defore so ask questions and tack it in, as Bob would say it’s only metal...can always adjust it.
 
1646161401608.webp
 
Yes, so the thing that got me bent out of shape was the motor mounts and the block huggers. I tested the header on the passenger side of the engine before it was in the truck and it was all good. Later when the engine was in the Pig is when I found out that little shift forward on the drivers side put the header into the mount. That's when we decided to move the whole thing back 2 inches and modified the engine mounts. It caused some head scratching for other things but really ended up giving me the room I needed for the radiator.

I do not have an issue taking the starter out. I had to do it to change the bunk crank sensor and then again a few months later to change the starter for new in the Verizon parking lot.
 
Megadoomer said:
I do not have an issue taking the starter out. I had to do it to change the bunk crank sensor and then again a few months later to change the starter for new in the Verizon parking lot.
Click to expand...
This is good news! Another question... I've read when you change out the crank sensor you have to "relearn" the computer to recognize the new sensor? The that the case?
 
scrapdaddy said:
This is good news! Another question... I've read when you change out the crank sensor you have to "relearn" the computer to recognize the new sensor? The that the case?
Click to expand...

I didn't do anything but just turn it on again. I don't know if you need to do anything but it hadn't learned much sitting on jack stands. All I know is it wouldn't start often and when it did it ran like poop. new sensor and it started and ran good.
 
So pictures to follow with the engine mounts but I am working on the trans mounts tomorrow.

I would like to be able to detach the mounts from the frame. I had seen pictures of using rivnuts to attach the trans brackets on each side. 4 per side.

What size rivnuts would be able to carry the load of said brackets?

What say you?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom