Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

JohnVee

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 16, 2011
Messages
9,374
Location
NOVA & NC
I got my trail top Friday from @Trollhole the quality looks top notch! I’m going to put it on later today to cover up my torn up besttop.
See what happens when you complain in response to a post of mine???????:D

Note: I did absolutely nothing other than touch a nerve with @Jakes40. But I'm hoping he'll buy me a beer soon anyway.
 

iptman

 
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
3,673
Location
Northern VA
Nice Sam! Did you find a manual or is it an auto?

Edit - I guess those 2 "Down" buttons are for the automatic shifting. "Up" buttons on the back of the steering wheel?
 

Devilmans Hand

TLCA #19517
 
Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
3,367
Location
Commonwealth of N.VA
Murder it out means black out everythjng, all lights, paint, badges. Usually flatter blacker paint.

Altezza is the "go fast" jdm version of the car. Think moreso Supra style as people build them up.

Yup, I got an auto and it's shiftable from the steering wheel. I've been searching for a manual, but they've a been hooned out badly. My cousin just happened to be selling his 2002 auto, so I jumped on it since I know it's a solid car. He was about to drop in a 2jz-gte twin turbo with a manual box, but what he really wants is a gtr. The manual swap isn't all that difficult to do, but I dunno if it'd be worth it. So far I like the auto that comes in there.

No where as crazy as the sti I had, but I don't need to scare the s*** out of myself all the time neither.

The lady's Supra and my IS have a very similar engine, so I can plan builds and spare parts easier now too. Ill have to build something crazy now.
 
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Stumpalama

Forum Junkie
SILVER Star
 
Joined
Nov 5, 2004
Messages
7,789
Location
NOVA
Started my "20th year of ownership FJ40 rebaselining"
This was all set in motion by the required repairs from my "hard stuck" at Rausch Creek during Fall Crawl.
I had the underside degreased and power cleaned by @1MOA, which made the underside almost as clean as when I finished the restoration in 2001.
Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders. The master was leaking, apparently for a while, as evidenced by the peeled paint and rust on the fire wall.
That required addressing and repainting.
Next was removing the torn up flywheel cover which required removing a section of the exhaust. It was a good thing too, as I found 2 loose bolts and a wasted flange gasket. I have a spare cover, but I think I will just hammer out the dent, patch the hole, repaint it and throw it back on. I've debated trying to beef up the cover, but haven't come up with an idea I like yet. It looks like my rear main seal is still good and my oil leak is from the rear of the oil pan gasket. It seems I installed it a little out of the groove when I replaced it 12 years ago. It's not a significant leak, so I'm gonna let it ride.
Then I looked for the source the fluid leak from the t-case. I was afraid I was going to have to drop the trans and case and do a reseal. However, the lack of old grease and dirt due to the cleaning made it easy to identify the source: the t-case nose cone. Putting a wrench on the bolts showed they were only a bit more than hand tight. I tightened them up and hope that that fixes it.
Next up is to clean out the insides of the frame wire wheel the rust spots and antirust prime and repaint the running gear and frame.
 
Joined
Aug 25, 2015
Messages
715
Location
Northern Virginia
I ordered the parts for knock sensor replacement on my chevy pickup... getting ready to sell it, but I have to replace those first. Still thinking about what rout I want to take with the FJ...
 

emorth

 
Joined
Jan 22, 2006
Messages
858
Location
Burke, VA
Jumper cable scam!!!

I was attempting to jump start a car and things weren't going as expected, so I did some investigating.
The red cable on the top is a 6 gauge wire. This is the gauge a jumper cable should be - if not bigger.
The cable pair on the bottom is a section of the jumper cable I was using. Notice that the outside diameters are the same, implying that the jumper cable is also a 6 gauge wire.

1.jpg


Surprise! The jumper cable on the left is really just a 12 gauge wire with LOTS of insulation (rubber is cheaper than copper). The 6 gauge wire on the right has the equivalent of seven 12 gauge wires. Quite a difference in current handling capability.

2.jpg


You can actually see the 7 individual 12 gauge wire bundles which make up the 6 gauge wire.

3.jpg

Make sure when you buy jumper cables they specify the wire gauge, 6 or bigger (the smaller the number the bigger the cable, so a 4 gauge wire is bigger than a 6 gauge wire) for jumper cables.

Just had to share this to expose the deception. Hate it!!!!!!
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
2,529
Location
Annapolis, Maryland
Jumper cable scam!!!

I was attempting to jump start a car and things weren't going as expected, so I did some investigating.
The red cable on the top is a 6 gauge wire. This is the gauge a jumper cable should be - if not bigger.
The cable pair on the bottom is a section of the jumper cable I was using. Notice that the outside diameters are the same, implying that the jumper cable is also a 6 gauge wire.

View attachment 1837060

Surprise! The jumper cable on the left is really just a 12 gauge wire with LOTS of insulation (rubber is cheaper than copper). The 6 gauge wire on the right has the equivalent of seven 12 gauge wires. Quite a difference in current handling capability.

View attachment 1837066

You can actually see the 7 individual 12 gauge wire bundles which make up the 6 gauge wire.

View attachment 1837067
Make sure when you buy jumper cables they specify the wire gauge, 6 or bigger (the smaller the number the bigger the cable, so a 4 gauge wire is bigger than a 6 gauge wire) for jumper cables.

Just had to share this to expose the deception. Hate it!!!!!!
One more shove in the direction of misanthropy.
 
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