Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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Pardon me, is my Engineer showing?
Stump, maybe I should have described it in terms you can relate to...how about, Ryan's handy work could no longer constrain the tubular member after it swelled in the heat of the moment and spewed forth the liquid from within?
Stump, maybe I should have described it in terms you can relate to...how about, Ryan's handy work could no longer constrain the tubular member after it swelled in the heat of the moment and spewed forth the liquid from within?
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"You're"
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I'm about to rig up a 2" thick seal to mitigate the draft from my tweaked tailgate.
Pics if I ever have unaccounted for daylight to complete this task.
Maybe in the spring
Pics if I ever have unaccounted for daylight to complete this task.
Maybe in the spring
What tool does one use to un-stake a stake nut on a pinion? I'm changing out the flanges on a set of 3.70 3rds I got from Gary. Also, when I pull the flange off do I have to rest preload? Replace the crush sleeve? My plan is to swap the flange to the correct pattern for my 77 (3rds came off an 86 FJ60) and replace the seals since I'm in there. Any issues with this logic?
Impact wrench in reverse auto unstakes them. or use a caping chisel.
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- #788
Just that you will have a hell of a time setting pinion preload on a 3rd that is not installed in an axle or otherwise secured.
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- #789
@Devilmans Hand *Spring
So you're saying I shouldn't do this?
Went ahead and bought a new rear locker actuator and installed it. I didn't realize these were available from Aisin until a couple days ago. Bought it from Rock auto, here in 2 days.
I also swapped out my driver's window regulator to see if that would speed up/down but much to my chagrin it had no positive effect. I guess I'll change out the window runs next.
I also swapped out my driver's window regulator to see if that would speed up/down but much to my chagrin it had no positive effect. I guess I'll change out the window runs next.
- Thread starter
- #792
Did you spray silicon on the window runs yet?
As far as the pinions go, you will want to have a way to secure the 3rd when attempting to get the 200+#ft or so of torque for the pinion preload.
My Die Hard Platinum primary battery recently died and on advice from our resident Professor Emeritus of all things 12v, decided to go with a deep cycle secondary and move my Toyota TruStart secondary to the primary role. I went with an Interstate Marine group 27 from Costco for $80. Ed also recommended moving my aux fuse box over to the deep cycle. I took this opportunity to rewire my primary to secondary to make it easier to replace the secondary in the future. I was able to use an existing firewall grommet and fished the 8 gauge + wire through on the PS behind the glove box.
Of course during my research for a replacement battery I found the solar guys sub-forum here on mud and I'm now starting to plan for a future solar array to be connected to the deep cycle for recharge. I'd eventually like to get a fridge, some camp lights and a UHF/VHF radio. This truly is a sickness isn't it.
Of course during my research for a replacement battery I found the solar guys sub-forum here on mud and I'm now starting to plan for a future solar array to be connected to the deep cycle for recharge. I'd eventually like to get a fridge, some camp lights and a UHF/VHF radio. This truly is a sickness isn't it.
I don't feel like looking it up, but how much? I'm in the same boat as you were. I have another locked axle here, but it's buried, and I think I'd rather just get a new actuator and be done with it.
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I took advantage of the warm weather last night to flush my heater core in the 97 4runner. The flushings were fairly clear, even with a vinegar soak and some Prestone flush. It heled a little bit, so warm air trickles out on low speed only. That should at least help with an icy windshield.
I saw that the metal rear heater lines towards the frame were looking nasty, and I've had a small coolant leak from somewhere, so I bypassed them.
The heater core should prob be replaced, but I'm not pulling the dash any time soon.
Meh
I saw that the metal rear heater lines towards the frame were looking nasty, and I've had a small coolant leak from somewhere, so I bypassed them.
The heater core should prob be replaced, but I'm not pulling the dash any time soon.
Meh