Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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- Thread starter
- #762
Got some appropriately sized jack stands.
Does anyone need a set of 6 ton jack stands? $25 for a pair of craftsman 6 tons.
Does anyone need a set of 6 ton jack stands? $25 for a pair of craftsman 6 tons.
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Yessir. I'll take em.
Btw, what are those type you just got ?
Btw, what are those type you just got ?
What are those you just got. Those are nice.
- Thread starter
- #765
Sunex 1410 high jack stands $189/pr shipped form maxtool.com.
- Thread starter
- #766
- Thread starter
- #767
Fixed the busted spring pin.
BTW, 10mm hex caps fit perfectly in the new spring perches with bigger holes. I had to round the nylock top bolt with the belt sander to fit in the top plate.
Torqued the ubolts to 130lbft. they are 9/16 bolts and I had way under torqued them previously (90lbft).
BTW, 10mm hex caps fit perfectly in the new spring perches with bigger holes. I had to round the nylock top bolt with the belt sander to fit in the top plate.
Torqued the ubolts to 130lbft. they are 9/16 bolts and I had way under torqued them previously (90lbft).
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You must have also picked up the last set! They are all sold out now.
- Thread starter
- #769
There are a couple others with the same deal... google "sunex 1410 jack stands"
Man, those are delightful...yes, I just called jack stands "delightful"!
Amazon has them.
Sunex 1410 10-Ton High Height Pin Type Jack Stands, Pair - Power Tool Stands - Amazon.com
Put in a new headliner before sticking the hardtop back on for winter. Also, got some turn indicator lights for the dash and a F.D. engaged light and switch. Only 1 hole left in the dash that I don't know what is supposed to be there.
The hole below the F.D. knob. It has the straight edge on the bottom.
I have the light for above, just waiting to wire it all before I put it in.
I have the light for above, just waiting to wire it all before I put it in.
My questionable memory and the flat-sided hole tells me that's where the wiper switch goes. Your light switch is in the hole where the hand throttle goes (my '67 had a throttle cable). As I recall, the light switch is the first hole to the right of the steering column on the bottom row. It too should have a flat bottom (all twist switches must have the flat bottom hole).
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I saw a couple pictures with the Light switch there and others , same year, that had been welded up and painted over. I'll pull the light switch later this week and see if it has a flat side that would make sense n that hole.
Thanks guys.
Replaced the o-ring for the speedometer cable in Rhea's 80 as I noticed it was leaking pretty badly. Easy fix. Nothing like instant gratification.
And speaking of instant gratification, I replaced the interior lights of the 80 with LEDs and what a difference. Biggest bang-for-buck upgrade I have made. I want to do it in my 62 now.
And speaking of instant gratification, I replaced the interior lights of the 80 with LEDs and what a difference. Biggest bang-for-buck upgrade I have made. I want to do it in my 62 now.
One of the best upgrades on my 62, love 'em.
I didn't get fancy, just replaced both dome lights with incandescent colored (warm) LEDs from Super Bright LEDs. SO much better!
Like you, I'm planning to do the rest of the fleet.
Rebuilt the ARB pressure manifold for the CKMTA12 on the 40...what a sketchy design. It was leaking from just about every o-ring.
Also pulled the auxiliary tank and replaced the fuel sender gasket...it was seeping when the tank was full. Hoping the weather will warm just enough so I can prime and paint the skid plates before I reinstall the tank.
Next up, seal the seam leak around the neck of the OEM tank. The collar of JB weld didn't seal very well and eventually broke in half. This was most likely caused by different thermoelastic expansion coefficients between the tank metal and the epoxy.
Also pulled the auxiliary tank and replaced the fuel sender gasket...it was seeping when the tank was full. Hoping the weather will warm just enough so I can prime and paint the skid plates before I reinstall the tank.
Next up, seal the seam leak around the neck of the OEM tank. The collar of JB weld didn't seal very well and eventually broke in half. This was most likely caused by different thermoelastic expansion coefficients between the tank metal and the epoxy.
- Thread starter
- #780
NERD!!