Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (2 Viewers)

[BHillteq]

Just be sure not to scratch the paint with scotchbrite

that truck may can be done with the yellow bottle Griot and correction Pad

Just ordered. Prime, too. I'll tackle it this weekend! The hood, roof, and bed are probably good Fluid Film candidates, right? The fenders and doors have tons of paint, and those I'll hit with the Griot.

@BHillteq congrats on the truck. Check out this other article on oxidized single stage paint restoration as well. Clay bar, Meguiar's #7, and wax.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints Restoring original and antique paint In the collector car hobby world, there’s a lot of interest in restoring and preserving original paint on classic and antique cars. Restoring the original...

www.autogeekonline.net

Thanks! And thanks for the link! Just reading through it now.

 

[wngrog]

The Griots treatment is superb for painted single and clear coat trucks. It’s truly unreal.
Where it does not do well is places where there is exposed rusted metal. That’s where I like the oil. Getting dried wax out of those rusted spots is murder.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Yeah good article @reddog90 I'm going to try some number 7.

Disagree on one of his claims. I haven't found those cobra microfiber towels to be less abrasive. I bought some thinking I would give them a chance. Quality cotton terry is way safer than microfiber terry IMO. The only gentle microfiber I've found is the type used in Quality goggle/lens cloth. I'd love to buy a big roll of that stuff.

 

[wngrog]

After reading through your build threads, and admiring the crap out of how you save rigs, and give them new life, I finally did something I've been wanting to do for a while. My folks live up in Idaho, and this old couple at the bottom of their hill have a little Pickup that's just been sitting out by their barn rotting away since the husband passed away back in 2012. I've always said how cool it would be to get it and fix it up, but it's always stopped there. Halfway through the Patina build, I was like F it. I'm going to get that little truck. Long story short, she's mine. Runs strong, and will have a new life in Utah with me. Not to thread jack, I'm posting this here because I'm curious what my best course of action should be to preserve it's killer patina. There is virtually no paint on the bed, so that is just rust prevention at this point, but the cab has tons of red I want to make pop. Especially the stripes.. I freaking love the stripes. Thanks in advance! Sorry for the novel.

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That hood is 100% oil and go. The more I look at the pics you have a good mix of wax and Fluid Film.Anything that’s bare metal, give it a good CLR/Scotchbrite Clean. Then hose it with fluid film. Let it sit a bit then wipe it off. On the frame and axles and stuff keep the FF on heavy bit the body and bed wipe it off so it does not collect dust and dirt

 

[BHillteq]

That hood is 100% oil and go. The more I look at the pics you have a good mix of wax and Fluid Film.Anything that’s bare metal, give it a good CLR/Scotchbrite Clean. Then hose it with fluid film. Let it sit a bit then wipe it off. On the frame and axles and stuff keep the FF on heavy bit the body and bed wipe it off so it does not collect dust and dirt

Cool, I'm excited to get after it! Thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to share the "after" pictures.

 

[bhsdriller]

I think I saw you mention that you don't use any rust converter now, just fluid film?
What about the linseed oil?

I assume you still use a converter on the underside?

 

[wngrog]

I convert everything I can that won’t bleed that black converted metal color into the paint.

I am still a huge fan of the rust converter in places you will end up painting as well.

That said if you wanted to you could skip it and go direct to Fluid Film if you don’t plan on painting

I’m really over the Boiled Linseed Oil to treat rusted metal. Fluid Film soaks in so much better.

My latest project (Weenie 3) has a totally surface rusted frame. I’m letting the FF soak in good and I’ll show you some great before and after on it soon.

 

[UncaMo]

I convert everything I can that won’t bleed that black converted metal color into the paint.

I am still a huge fan of the rust converter in places you will end up painting as well.

That said if you wanted to you could skip it and go direct to Fluid Film if you don’t plan on painting

I’m really over the Boiled Linseed Oil to treat rusted metal. Fluid Film soaks in so much better.

My latest project (Weenie 3) has a totally surface rusted frame. I’m letting the FF soak in good and I’ll show you some great before and after on it soon.

The BLO just picks up every bit of dust here in Albuquerque. Any hints on something that won't be a complete dust magnet?
Thanks,
Mo

 

[wngrog]

Not if it’s an oil. Dust sticks to oil. That said, I’m able to get much thinner coats of Fluid Film onto the painted areas with FF than BLO

As for the frame and underside, you are supposed to let the dust and dirt collect on the Fluid Film. It’s amazing how it soaks into the rusted metal and all the grime and mud falls off with a good pressure wash.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

The BLO just picks up every bit of dust here in Albuquerque. Any hints on something that won't be a complete dust magnet?
Thanks,
Mo

Not like you need to worry about rust in ABQ

 

[UncaMo]

Not like you need to worry about rust in ABQ

Pretty much. But I can build a patina of rust in the summertime like a champ! Just wet some bare metal and let it sit in the sun for an hour! LOL.

 

[BILT4ME]

Pretty much. But I can build a patina of rust in the summertime like a champ! Just wet some bare metal and let it sit in the sun for an hour! LOL.

On top, yes. Underneath, not so much.

 

[wngrog]

I bought this sprayer rig on Amazon for my mass hysteria over Fluid Film. It came with an FAQ that people always ask me so I will just post them here

 

[middlecalf]

Any noticeable difference in applied product between rattlecan fluid film and bulk FF applied w/ sprayer? I ask because rattlecan psi is a bit less than 90psi (for gun application per the above info) so was wondering if they’re actually different product. I’ve got some cans of FF, yet to apply but it’s going inside window frame areas and rocker panel areas with hose attachment. Also on surface body rust areas after the ”patina“ rust starts.

 

[wngrog]

I can’t tell. It was weird how thick it was in the can. That’s why it has to have a high PSI.

I coated the rear axle on Weenie 3 and barely used much. I’ll say a gallon is a bit overkill but I plan on doing both of my 100s as soon as my lift gets installed.

This kit came with a long nozzle for the cans and rubber plugs where you can reach inside. It sprays 360*

 

[MrSAfro]

We don't have CLR here in South Africa, but I have found Evapo-Rust, will that work similar to the CLR for cleaning it first before patina and metal preservation coatings?

I am asking because I have not at all seen it mentioned by anyone in this thread. Is CLR MUCH better or will the Evapo-rust also get the job done?

 

[wngrog]

We don't have CLR here in South Africa, but I have found Evapo-Rust, will that work similar to the CLR for cleaning it first before patina and metal preservation coatings?

I am asking because I have not at all seen it mentioned by anyone in this thread. Is CLR MUCH better or will the Evapo-rust also get the job done?

Use what you can get!!

@cruiserjunktion uses that stuff with great results.

 

[middlecalf]

My understanding (and use of) evaporust requires the part to be cleared of rust to be submersed in the liquid for a period of time or covered with wet rags soaked in evaporust, so it’s a different application process. CLR is used as a cleaning solution on a rag or scrub pad.

 

[MrSAfro]

My understanding (and use of) evaporust requires the part to be cleared of rust to be submersed in the liquid for a period of time or covered with wet rags soaked in evaporust, so it’s a different application process. CLR is used as a cleaning solution on a rag or scrub pad.

I also saw a few people do it that way, but will test on a plate as a scrubbing solution and see.

 

[Dizzy]

@MrSAfro I'd love to see pics of the South African right-hand-drive rig your using for your profile pic.

Some of my rusty parts I've simply applied bearing/chassis grease or (clean) motor oil with a brush or toothbrush, and the rust blends in well with the remaining black paint that it is adjacent to. One step, and I figure that the porosity of the rust isn't that big of a deal, and I can get on to bigger projects.

before application

after application