Poll on total brake failure in 100 series

[CloudCity]

Anyone with a total brake system failure try this route with NHTSA?

https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-possibly-force-a-recall-on-your-car-1830938474

This is an excellent idea. I've seen people mention to report it but this article gives hope that it could actually result in something being done. Everybody reading this who had a unexplained failure should submit their complaint, potentially with them seeing a sudden large number coming through might prompt some response.

 

[medtro]

@medtro Thanks, unless you have an open field/runway in your backyard, it would be unsafe for me to ask you to disable your booster.

I don't have an open field/runway in my backyard, that is why I said reasonable tests.

 

[ton504]

My pump motor just started to make noise. Please let me know if there are any reasonable tests that you would like me to perform before I remove the booster assembly.

Can you describe the noise you're experiencing?

 

[medtro]

Can you describe the noise you're experiencing?

It sounded exactly like the sound clips in the first post of Booster Pump / Accumulator Noise diagnosis. My alternator sounded like that too when it died, but it was louder. I tried to record sound clip today, but it only made that sound for a short time at the beginning. I have C1256 code, intermittent ABS & BRAKE lights and BEEP. There is no loud alert or any kind of alarm. Brake pressure is still good. I pumped the brake pedal at least 50 times today and I couldn't get the brake to fail. With a lot of open space in front of me, I shifted the transmission to "D" when I had ABS & BRAKE lights and BEEP, continued to step on the brake pedal, and gave it a lot of gas, the vehicle didn't move at all.

 

[2001LC]

It sounded exactly like the sound clips in the first post of Booster Pump / Accumulator Noise diagnosis. My alternator sounded like that too when it died, but it was louder. I tried to record sound clip today, but it only made that sound for a short time at the beginning. I have C1256 code, intermittent ABS & BRAKE lights and BEEP. There is no loud alert or any kind of alarm. Brake pressure is still good. I pumped the brake pedal at least 50 times today and I couldn't get the brake to fail. With a lot of open space in front of me, I shifted the transmission to "D" when I had ABS & BRAKE lights and BEEP, continued to step on the brake pedal, and gave it a lot of gas, the vehicle didn't move at all.

Since your sound is just like that in the thread you linked in, it would be a good place for you to post. I'll post some pictures of new OEM parts and link to best prices I know of, wherever you'd like.

Your brakes are speaking to and you're sharp enough to be paying attention. I think you've a case where brakes are going to fail. There is no way to know how long before this happens, but it will. This assume you've good fluid and accumulator is not touching side (centered).

I think often times in these so called "sudden" brake failures, some people just don't pay attention.

 

[ton504]

@medtro

I am experiencing the same noise. My motor and pump works as you can hear it pressurizing up the accumulator. I believe that the high pressure switch, which is within the black box of the abs unit, is faulty. When it's cold out, the switch sticks? causing the motor to run the pump abnormally long and eventually over-pressurizing the accumulator. This is where the squealing/squawking noise is coming from. I'm not sure if the brake fluid is back flowing through the pump or its being diverted through a safety valve but that's not the root cause so I'm not digging deeper. I haven't cracked opened the black box, but I've seen photos from another member and I don't believe it's replaceable. Having said that, I'll be replacing my abs booster assembly in the next few days.

Btw, once warmed up, the high pressure switch works fine. I have been depressurizing the accumulator by pumping it 20+ times with the ignition off whenever I'm done driving for the day. This allows the motor/pump to run a bit longer upon startup. I'm guessing the fluid warms up a bit while being pumped/pressurized and allows the high pressure switch to "warm-up". But the high pressure switch has been sticking(getting worst) on colder days so I'm just going to change out the complete assembly.

Take a look at the 2nd link for FSM instructions to check the pressure switches. My high pressure switch had high resistance when pressurized.

Abs issue some work done but stuck?

is this sound the accuator or the pump on the brake system?

 

[medtro]

@medtro

I am experiencing the same noise. My motor and pump works as you can hear it pressurizing up the accumulator. I believe that the high pressure switch, which is within the black box of the abs unit, is faulty. When it's cold out, the switch sticks? causing the motor to run the pump abnormally long and eventually over-pressurizing the accumulator. This is where the squealing/squawking noise is coming from. I'm not sure if the brake fluid is back flowing through the pump or its being diverted through a safety valve but that's not the root cause so I'm not digging deeper. I haven't cracked opened the black box, but I've seen photos from another member and I don't believe it's replaceable. Having said that, I'll be replacing my abs booster assembly in the next few days.

Btw, once warmed up, the high pressure switch works fine. I have been depressurizing the accumulator by pumping it 20+ times with the ignition off whenever I'm done driving for the day. This allows the motor/pump to run a bit longer upon startup. I'm guessing the fluid warms up a bit while being pumped/pressurized and allows the high pressure switch to "warm-up". But the high pressure switch has been sticking(getting worst) on colder days so I'm just going to change out the complete assembly.

Take a look at the 2nd link for FSM instructions to check the pressure switches. My high pressure switch had high resistance when pressurized.

Abs issue some work done but stuck?

is this sound the accuator or the pump on the brake system?

Thanks for the info. C1256 corresponds to low accumulator pressure, I plan to test the sensor before ordering parts. Your temperature comments match with what happened to my vehicle. It started making noise at night when I wasn't even using the brake. I started the vehicle in the next afternoon, and it made noise at the beginning for a short time only. I remember reading someone pumped the pedal until the pressure dropped before turning the key ON to avoid the noise, and he said it worked for him. How long have you had this problem?

 

[medtro]

Since your sound is just like that in the thread you linked in, it would be a good place for you to post. I'll post some pictures of new OEM parts and link to best prices I know of, wherever you'd like.

Your brakes are speaking to and you're sharp enough to be paying attention. I think you've a case where brakes are going to fail. There is no way to know how long before this happens, but it will. This assume you've good fluid and accumulator is not touching side (centered).

I think often times in these so called "sudden" brake failures, some people just don't pay attention.

I didn't want to post there because I wouldn't be offering any solution, plus the OP has fixed his problem.

It is not right for me to tell you how or where to post your info. Please feel free to post any where you deem appropriate if you would like to offer your info to the forum.

 

[ton504]

Thanks for the info. C1256 corresponds to low accumulator pressure, I plan to test the sensor before ordering parts. Your temperature comments match with what happened to my vehicle. It started making noise at night when I wasn't even using the brake. I started the vehicle in the next afternoon, and it made noise at the beginning for a short time only. I remember reading someone pumped the pedal until the pressure dropped before turning the key ON to avoid the noise, and he said it worked for him. How long have you had this problem?

It happened maybe a couple times last winter when it got really cold (low 40s high 30s lol). I first thought it was a motor issue so I removed it for inspection. The commutator was worn but all the copper was there. So I stuck it back on. I then removed the pump and opened the three ports to clean it. I also removed the accumulator and replaced the spring/silencer tube/o-ring. I didn't hear a peep from it until it recently got cooler. But now it happens everyday so it's time to put an end to it. I did more research and decided to replace the whole assembly. I should have the new one tomorrow and probably going to install it this weekend.

Your failure may be different. It could be just the motor. I suggest removing just the motor for inspection. I have fairly large hands/arms and was able to remove just the motor. Pro-tip: Get a mirror with a swivel/telescopic handle.

 

[Mikeybro]

So i have a 06 with 141k on it. It’s new to me and maybe if I had the cruiser from brand new I would of notice the difference in how it was braking. But I purchased it at 136k. I had it inspected twice and checked the pump before purchase. All was clear. Yesterday as I was leaving the front range to drive to crested butte and go over monarch pass. The lights and beep came on and 2 minutes later and less than a mile I had no brakes. Had to use the emergency brake to stop as I drove to a shop. I Checked the codes it was throwing and it was all the same com codes people have been posting. Im travelling and need to get to CB this weekend for Xmas. So 3k later (still waiting for parts to get here) I will have “new” booster and module. I saw this thread on here when I was browsing and thought, thats dumb how could that happen? Now that it happened to me and how quickly it happened this blows my mind that this isn’t an open recall or anything of the sorts. I’m going to get all my old parts and see if I can fix them/ hold on if a recall does ever happen. Super bummed about it, but I’m glad it happened in Fort Collins and not on Monarch pass.

 

[white thunder]

yes 2004 LC with 132,700 miles

 

[odesoto]

mine was 100% my fault. i neglected to change pads, and literally was driving on metal, and coming up to a stoplight 2 blocks away from my house, dash lights came on, and all brakes gave out.. I managed to stop putting truck in neutral and easing in the hand brake (that never failed). I was young and stupid. This must've happened between 50-100k.

 

[gt7058a]

The 2003, 220k miles.

It’s my wife’s DD. The ABS and VSC lights were on with an audible alarm. Breaks worked enough to get it the two blocks to my driveway. Next morning only e brake works and it rolls backward in neutral while standing on the peddle.

A day or two prior to the lights and alarms my wife reported a short squeal at start up.

Update: Toyota replaced this part for $3.5K.

47050-60043

 

[Chrisek]

No. 2001 with 195k.

 

[Rambodian]

My hundy has awesome brakes

 

[badsamaritan]

No.

2000 with 195k on the clock. I have had some weird noises and pedal vibration once or twice when initially starting the vehicle after sitting for a long time, but nothing else. I have had this truck about 2 years. It does worry me though as my wife and kids are frequently using this vehicle for weekend trips. Is the consensus to do preventative maintenance and replace it before it becomes an issue? It doesn't sound like there is much warning of the impending failure.

 

[MongooseGA]

How often is everyone hearing their accumulator on a healthy system? I had an incident about 2 months ago that resulted in severed brake lines. The engine would have run for at most a minute after this happened before being towed to a shop. New lines went in, brakes are fine. It may be psychosomatic or I may be a hypochondriac. Mine is not as bad as linked above, no grinding or anything. It just sounds like a faint heat shield rattle that I don't remember hearing, at least as frequently, before the lines were replaced. I'll hear it at cold start, and every now and then when applying brake pressure.

 

[camino70]

You own a 100, ergo you are a hypochondriac.

 

[TLEXAS]

My Landcruiser at local Toyota shop today getting a full brake accumulator & pump assembly replacement. Had the dreaded squealing pump motor and prolonged pump operating symptoms. Figured at 460,000 kms from when I purchased my rig new in 2001, my brake accumulator replacement was a necessary long term maintenance cost. I could have approached the issue on a piecemeal basis but chose to deal with the issue comprehensively and have confidence that my full brake assembly unit under my bonnet was good to go for many years into the future. Last year I replaced my soggy rubber brake lines with stainless lines that eliminated a spongy feel in my brakes. My intended ownership is keep my Cruiser another 18 years and get my million mile moneys worth out of a vehicle that is now a "family heirloom". Thanks for the contributions from our many members on various issues that arise in maintaining our rigs. I continue to learn from your commentary.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

My Landcruiser at local Toyota shop today getting a full brake accumulator & pump assembly replacement. Had the dreaded squealing pump motor and prolonged pump operating symptoms. Figured at 460,000 kms from when I purchased my rig new in 2001, my brake accumulator replacement was a necessary long term maintenance cost. I could have approached the issue on a piecemeal basis but chose to deal with the issue comprehensively and have confidence that my full brake assembly unit under my bonnet was good to go for many years into the future. Last year I replaced my soggy rubber brake lines with stainless lines that eliminated a spongy feel in my brakes. My intended ownership is keep my Cruiser another 18 years and get my million mile moneys worth out of a vehicle that is now a "family heirloom". Thanks for the contributions from our many members on various issues that arise in maintaining our rigs. I continue to learn from your commentary.

Curious how hard they hit you on the bill.