Paint Job Costs (1 Viewer)

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Whichever path you choose (DIY or Professional), take your windows out. Plenty of threads on taking cargo windows out and a new windshield without pitting/scratches really improves nighttime visibility.
I had mine done recently and found a good bit of rust(perforated the metal) In my lower windshield which would have been major if we did’t catch it. I had new metal put in which is shown in black in my photos. Also found minor but developing patches in one of the cargo windows. Also found some previously poorly repaired rust repairs where it was coming back around the gas filler door.

Good rule of thumb 9-12k for high quality windows out job plus any surprise issues.
Thanks. If you do window out, do you need all new seals? If so, where are you ordering from?
 
Whichever path you choose (DIY or Professional), take your windows out. Plenty of threads on taking cargo windows out and a new windshield without pitting/scratches really improves nighttime visibility.
I had mine done recently and found a good bit of rust(perforated the metal) In my lower windshield which would have been major if we did’t catch it. I had new metal put in which is shown in black in my photos. Also found minor but developing patches in one of the cargo windows. Also found some previously poorly repaired rust repairs where it was coming back around the gas filler door.

Good rule of thumb 9-12k for high quality windows out job plus any surprise issues.

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This hits the nail right on the head for what I’m doing with my truck now, doesn’t help that Freeborn red is the most expensive stock color to mix.

Im honestly in this range partly because I had 30 years worth of hail damage to the hood and the roof, which took a substantial amount of time to square away. If your truck is rust free and has straight panels to start with you’d be looking at the lower end for a good quality professional glass out paintjob
 
Whichever path you choose (DIY or Professional), take your windows out. Plenty of threads on taking cargo windows out and a new windshield without pitting/scratches really improves nighttime visibility.
I had mine done recently and found a good bit of rust(perforated the metal) In my lower windshield which would have been major if we did’t catch it. I had new metal put in which is shown in black in my photos. Also found minor but developing patches in one of the cargo windows. Also found some previously poorly repaired rust repairs where it was coming back around the gas filler door.

Good rule of thumb 9-12k for high quality windows out job plus any surprise issues.

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How do you repair rust pits and perfs on body and seams? Ist the there a metal filler paste or spray - or do yo need an experienced sheet metal welder? Just curious as I think we all have problems like this to some degree.
 
$1200 would be a good budget for the primer, paint, clear coat, sand paper, tack rags, body filler, paper, buffing pads, buffing compound etc, etc. Then you have to have a shop, a high volume air compressor, desiccant filter, paint guns, wheel and tire covers, masks, tyvec suits...etc Sooooooooo, cost would prob be a minimum of 2500.00 that's the painters cost ...and assuming he doesn't use very high end paint guns and equipment. Paint booth etc. I'm talking about his cost to help replace shop stuff and cover the budget. Now you have to figure labor. Painting is ART. No such thing as perfect, but the closer someone can get, the more they can demand for their work. And if you want to start pulling windows out of a 30+ year old vehicle, you are in essence going into resto work...because the window seals will not be able to be reused. What happens when you find a rust bubble under the seal?

But it is important to know and discuss how far your painter is going to go...ie remove doors? remove bumpers, Tape up door handles, vents, LC emblems or remove? Will he be painting the door wells and the inner fender? The engine compartment? The underside of the hood? Details. The more you demand the more time and energy, and the cost. Really want to get his neck hairs up ...ask him how he will handle imperfections that will come up...runs in the paint or clear, orange peel etc.
 
How do you repair rust pits and perfs on body and seams? Ist the there a metal filler paste or spray - or do yo need an experienced sheet metal welder? Just curious as I think we all have problems like this to some degree.
In my case I was using professionals. They cut out the bad parts and fabricated replacement pieces.
Depending on the size of the issue, most areas (like pitting) can be cleaned up, sprayed with POR (rust reformer/preventer) and body filler fixed.
All depends on severity.
 
Had my FJ60 resprayed at Land Cruiser Restorations in SE Kansas. Jim did a great job at a fair price. The body was solid, no rust and a few dings. Pulled all windows and painted inside door jams. Very pleased with the outcome! $8,500 out the door. Call Jim at LCR. He can give you an estimate based on pictures you send.
 
How do you repair rust pits and perfs on body and seams? Ist the there a metal filler paste or spray - or do yo need an experienced sheet metal welder? Just curious as I think we all have problems like this to some degree.
This OP of this thread is asking about the cost, Prob should ask this question in a new thread.
 
In my case I was using professionals. They cut out the bad parts and fabricated replacement pieces.
Depending on the size of the issue, most areas (like pitting) can be cleaned up, sprayed with POR (rust reformer/preventer) and body filler fixed.
All depends on severity.
Thanks!
 
I'm bloody impressed with this Dupli-color auto touch up paint I used on my roof. It comes in small cans and cost about $100 for what I needed. It would be good if it came in larger cans, otherwise I'd probably need $500 for the whole car. Time will tell. If I put clear coat over it then it would look pro. More than good enough for a vehicle that will be used in the bush with pin striping. While I don't care about what happens to the paint too much, I do care about what happens to the metal underneath so I want a good protecting paint coat.

The thing is, you can't comment on the quality of the rust repair and paint job until several years later when problems start showing up (peeling paint from UV, rust cancer creeping in again from underneath). All paint jobs look good right after they are painted.

How do you repair rust pits and perfs on body and seams? Ist the there a metal filler paste or spray - or do yo need an experienced sheet metal welder? Just curious as I think we all have problems like this to some degree.

Unless you drill out the pinch welds, dismantle all body panels and sandblast all the pieces back to bare metal you will never get it back up to 100%. You can sandblast, grind and rust convert the areas you can access and paint over them, but the crevices where sheet pieces come together will be inaccessible. All you can do there is clean with brake cleaner / degreaser etc. and spray in rust converting paint like by Eastwood. Then once the outside is all painted up nicely spray some rust inhibitor oil in behind into the crevices to prevent the rust from coming back. This won't be 100% but will be as good as you can get without completely dismantling the body.
 
Stopped by local paint shop (lots of Porsches , Imapalas, continentals). Guy had 2 Ih8mud members land cruisers there for glass out paint.

2 stage paint. Lifetime warranty. 1 month time. $5,000. (60 is in excellent shape. 0 rust. paint in good shape. lots of large dents, and rear quarter slight paint fade)
 
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Friend of mine that does body and paint work did a series Land Rover bulk head for me. I delivered it to him as solid and rust free and partially sand blasted. He fixed a few small things and did all the prep work. Then primed and painted with ppg of the factory color. A bulkhead is complex shape with lots of area and I cannot remember ow much paint he had to use. My price...10 years ago....was $800. And that was a deal. I’m going to talk to him about doing my 60. It’s quite solid but has some surface rust where the paint got cooked from years in the sun. Often I can do a lot of the pre work to help cut costs but if he could do it for $4k to $5k id be very happy.
 
Friend of mine that does body and paint work did a series Land Rover bulk head for me. I delivered it to him as solid and rust free and partially sand blasted. He fixed a few small things and did all the prep work. Then primed and painted with ppg of the factory color. A bulkhead is complex shape with lots of area and I cannot remember ow much paint he had to use. My price...10 years ago....was $800. And that was a deal. I’m going to talk to him about doing my 60. It’s quite solid but has some surface rust where the paint got cooked from years in the sun. Often I can do a lot of the pre work to help cut costs but if he could do it for $4k to $5k id be very happy.

Yeah 5K sounds good so far from what I am getting.

I spoke to couple of shops in Tijuana. They want $1800-$2K for the same paint job. These guys so far have done 3 60s that were flipped on BAT for $25-$35K

Of course the issue is border crossing these days....
 
Hi Guys - I think this is the right spot to ask this question - please correct me if I am wrong...

I am looking for paint services in Utah - looking more for a small booth situation instead of a full on shop job. Any recommends or good shooters in the Utah area? Thank you!
 
Dumb paint question

friend says after you pick up front paint shop, you wait 6-8 weeks to go back and wet sand for the super shine

is that true ?
Are LC paint wet sanded?

thanks.
 
Dumb paint question

friend says after you pick up front paint shop, you wait 6-8 weeks to go back and wet sand for the super shine

is that true ?
Are LC paint wet sanded?

thanks.
Hey Ryan, I’m far from a professional but have painted a few trucks over the years. I find I get the best results when I let the paint cure for 30+ days before I wet sand and buff. The paint does need time to dry and it’s my understanding the inner layers take a while for any chemical reactions to work their way out.
 
Bought a FJ62 and though it is a TLC restore 2012 the previous owner wasn’t quite as meticulous as Jonathan. He and his shop bragged about how well they maintained the truck body and mechanics. It’s always relative on peoples opinion of quality. I’ve asked myself the same question about paint and body work and I’m afraid to open up that can of worms. I’ve done plenty of poking around on the body and know I’m going to have gremlins with bodywork. I eased into it and started cleaning what I had claybar, compounding etc., and like one of the previous guys said why put a $10,000 paint job on a off-road truck really seems to make a lot of sense the more I think about it. However I have some rust fix. I have a few quotes going out for north Texas and I will send you what I get. To ease my pain just a little my 75 yo dad who always says what he’s thinking said hell son why the hell would you want to fix that people are paying to get patina paint you got it for free fix the rust, leave it alone.
 
I would never leave rust, it is cancer. Patina, absolutely love it but rust will double your 10k cost if left untreated.
 

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