OSNC's Latest - a guy gets a 40 (1 Viewer)

[little_joe]

1971 FJ40, 95%+ stock, brand new 31x10.50 Cooper AT3's. From PO:

****

"This rig still has it's original spring green paint and overall truck is in very original condition.
I purchased this truck out of Colorado and it's very solid with a few rust areas that I have pictured.
Rear sill is gone, rust on passenger outer rocker where the attachment bracket is, and a little rust on passenger fender.
The rest of the truck is solid including solid floor pans, frame, etc.
Runs, drives, and stops well.

Here is a list of what I have done to it recently:
- New windshield with Toyota windshield gasket and locking strip
- New Toyota soft brake lines
- New Aisin clutch master
- New Aisin brake master
- New brake booster
- New Toyota air filter
- New Toyota fuel filter
- New soft fuel lines
- New Toyota radiator
- New Toyota thermostat, gaskets, and housing
- New Water pump and gaskets
- New Toyota fan belt
- New Toyota alternator pulley and fan
- New Toyota cooling system hoses and clamps
- New radiator overflow bottle

The truck is very original which is why I bought it.

Photobucket link to tons of pics from PO:
71FJ40 by upperblack

****

I have an AwlTeq rear sill ready to go in; some misc and spare parts; new windshield-mounted mirrors; 4 BFG MT in EC I'll throw in; all new 555 steering rod ends installed; new rear stock-height shocks; CityRacer LED headlights; OverlandMetric 1000-pc yellow zinc hw kit; have some new OEM lenses and emblems; some other s*** I'm probably forgetting. Doesn't stop well or at all, which is only regression since I got it.

What it needs: front brake work is all needs to be driveable every day. Address the numerous leaks (engine, tranny xfer); minor electrical (e.g. license plate lamp, cluster); address rust; reupholster.

Located in Holly Springs (Raleigh). $10k/neg, no trades. Clean NC title. PM, email (jmiccich@gmail.com) or call nine 1 nine, six 1 zero 00 four ate. Pls do not text, I hate texting.

Why am I selling already? 1) Being honest, my mechanical skills are pretty s***ty which frustrates me and makes my anxiety even worse and 2) I am not going to pay someone to do all the work it needs b/c having savings etc is more important to me than a hobby vehicle.

 

[little_joe]

So, to follow up on this:

It stops now and is driveable, however I'd s*** my pants with an emergency stop. I also have a new-to-me stock exhaust in quite good condition ready for install.

****

I'm genuinely torn and may have overreacted? I dunno.

Separating fantasy vs reality, the 40 is just frickin' awesome. But, working in my garage sucks. This thing is going to require, what is to me, an inordinate amount of coin for ongoing maintenance + repairs + upgrades. Driving it in the hot weather is brutal. Since I have no rollbar, bows + soft-top == major coin or always leave hard top on, which limits when I can drive and enjoy it.

Obviously this is not my DD so there is no rush on anything. On the other hand, my wife would like her garage space back for her car.

For those of you who do not have problems with your brain, this may seem silly to you. I've had some private comms though where others have and currently struggle with the same considerations. Guess I should just put on my big boy pants....

Please, comments are welcome.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If you're set to sell it, pay to have the big repairs done and you can likely sell it for much more than 10k.

 

[JohnVee]

If you're set to sell it, pay to have the big repairs done and you can likely sell it for much more than 10k.

Plus Joe can then drive it for a while before confirming he really wants to sell, and his mind might be changed by having a truck that only needs little things done as needed!

 

[roadstr6]

Sorry to hear, Joe. I wish you were closer. If you were, I'd be happy to help you sort out the issues. Lean on the club for a little help. The Charlotte bunch helped David Miller resurrect an FJ45LV that was in worse shape than your 40. That truck made it on a 200+ mile Hurricane Creek trip. It was spectacular.

Don't stress on the details. This truck is a forest. You are focusing on the trees. Think long term. Just tackle one issue at a time with some local help. Just get it driving well and stopping well and drive it when you can and bond with the old gal. It'll be Fall before you know it. The old drum brakes can be finicky but when you get them right they are as good as discs. Rod ends are no biggie. The wiring issues are cheap and easy fixes. Leaks are not but they can wait a while. Body work can wait too. My advice is to only spend money on what the truck needs right now to get some seat time. After that just pick a couple of projects each year to tackle. Don't let the truck be a financial drain. It doesn't have to be. It can sit there. You can do nothing and it is still going to appreciate in value. What's the current interest rate on a savings account these days? 2 percent? A 40 in the driveway is better than money in the bank if you ask me!

 

[little_joe]

@roadstr6 @FJinTegaCay @JohnVee @Rice @fourtrax @GLTHFJ60 and all others who reached out or posted, thank you. You brought me to my senses.

After buttoning up the front brakes y'day, I went for a test drive - it still needs brake work, but at least it can stop now. And driving it on an 85* day is not nearly as bad as a 95* day. It should be perfect on a 45* day.

I am fairly certain I'll stop being a drama queen now and get back at it.

I would like to ask for help w/ some stuff, let me get the parts first.

It does seem to have run out of adjustment on the driver's side front brake. Pads have plenty of material left, but I simply cannot get the wheel to drag at all (pass side is ok). Any ideas/suggestions? Wheel cylinders are new, seated, burped/bled...

 

[fourtrax]

Joe.

i am practically next door, if you have a question or need second opinion or a hand with something.

bring it over!

 

[Rice]

@roadstr6 @FJinTegaCay @JohnVee @Rice @fourtrax @GLTHFJ60 and all others who reached out or posted, thank you. You brought me to my senses.

After buttoning up the front brakes y'day, I went for a test drive - it still needs brake work, but at least it can stop now. And driving it on an 85* day is not nearly as bad as a 95* day. It should be perfect on a 45* day.

I am fairly certain I'll stop being a drama queen now and get back at it.

I would like to ask for help w/ some stuff, let me get the parts first.

It does seem to have run out of adjustment on the driver's side front brake. Pads have plenty of material left, but I simply cannot get the wheel to drag at all (pass side is ok). Any ideas/suggestions? Wheel cylinders are new, seated, burped/bled...

Question .... is it the adjuster that you can't get to drag or is it only foot on brake pedal that doesn't drag?

 

[roadstr6]

There should be plenty of adjustment left in the cylinders even if the shoes are worn all the way down to the metal. Something isn't right. Check and double check the FSM to make sure you have the cylinders and shoes oriented properly. It is easier that you might think to get them wrong. I have always done one side at a time and used the other side for reference. However it is possible the the PO got them wrong to start with. If all else fails, check the FSM. For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

 

[little_joe]

Question .... is it the adjuster that you can't get to drag or is it only foot on brake pedal that doesn't drag?

I cannot get the brake drums to drag on the shoes when this wheel is off the ground and I spin it by hand. Again, I seem to have run out of adjustment of the wheel cylinders to expand the shoes at rest.

@roadstr6 I've checked my installation a few times, against the FSM, SOR diagrams, pictures in the 40 forum, etc. I have the wheel cylinders oriented correctly; I have the shoes and springs installed as per FSM and every diagram/picture I can find. I have bled and rebled them, and mashed them hard to seat everything.

The only other variable here is I got these wheel cylinders from CruiserOutfitters, they are aftermarket JBS - and they are 7/8" bore, vs the 1.25" bore of the OEM cylinders. CO states these are fine, they've sold hundreds of them and no issues; and my right front is a-ok. The shoes/drum did drag with the OEM cylinders and could be adjusted further.

@fourtrax I'll take you up on the offer, but ask that you come over. Let me find some more of those damn washers for the banjo bolts and I'll start over on this side.

 

[roadstr6]

You might try rebuilding your old cylinders and re-installing them while you figure out what is going on with these aftermarket ones. Cylinder rebuild kits are less than $10 and all it takes is a a drill, a $10 brake hone and some time. There's really nothing to them. They do tend to get pretty crusty inside and need a good cleaning.

Something about using cylinders with a different diameter than stock doesn't seem right to me. Maybe that's all that is available now, I don't know. I know the OEM ones for my old '70 40 had gotten pretty scarce and SOR wanted a fortune for them a couple of years ago.

 

[FJinTegaCay]

You might try rebuilding your old cylinders and re-installing them while you figure out what is going on with these aftermarket ones. Cylinder rebuild kits are less than $10 and all it takes is a a drill, a $10 brake hone and some time. There's really nothing to them. They do tend to get pretty crusty inside and need a good cleaning.

Something about using cylinders with a different diameter than stock doesn't seem right to me. Maybe that's all that is available now, I don't know. I know the OEM es for my old '70 40 had gotten pretty scarce and SOR wanted a fortune for them a couple of years ago.

@elkaholic and I rebuilt two brake cylinders in my driveway before the Carolina Relic Run without taking them off the truck. I splurged and got the rebuild kits from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters vs. what you can get at NAPA.

Have you seen this thread from Coolerman? Rebuilding The Brake Wheel Cylinders Perhaps it will provide some insight.

 

[little_joe]

@elkaholic and I rebuilt two brake cylinders in my driveway before the Carolina Relic Run without taking them off the truck. I splurged and got the rebuild kits from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters vs. what you can get at NAPA.

Have you seen this thread from Coolerman? Rebuilding The Brake Wheel Cylinders Perhaps it will provide some insight.

Thanks David. The wheel cylinders are new, and I rebuilt one yesterday just to check it completely. I have seen Coolerman's page about this. I'll fuss with it some more this evening, and I'll rebuild the OEM cylinders as well.

 

[fourtrax]

Call me if need me Joe.

 

[little_joe]

I really could use some help with this fxxxing brake. If anyone is able to come by in the evening or this weekend, please let me know - I'm about 2.5 mi from the intersection of 1 and 55 in SW Wake County.

On with the pictures:

Once the shoes are installed, I cannot move either adjuster on either cylinder in either direction. When I remove the shoes, I can freely spin the adjusters by hand.

Here is the whole assembly:

fl

• little_joe
• Jul 18, 2017

Here is the forward cylinder + spring (behind the shoes):

fl_ff

• little_joe
• Jul 18, 2017

Here is the rear cylinder + spring (face of shoes):

fl_rr

• little_joe
• Jul 18, 2017

 

[roadstr6]

When you take the shoes off and move the adjusters, is the slotted post that the shoe sits in turning too? If so, you need to attempt to hold the slotted post while you spin the star. The star and post are supposed to move independently from each other. Probably the post is just run down tight from the factory and needs to be broken loose from the star so actual adjustment can take place.

 

[little_joe]

When you take the shoes off and move the adjusters, is the slotted post that the shoe sits in turning too? If so, you need to attempt to hold the slotted post while you spin the star. The star and post are supposed to move independently from each other. Probably the post is just run down tight from the factory and needs to be broken loose from the star so actual adjustment can take place.

@roadstr6 you nailed it, and I owe you beer! In all seriousness, the adjusters were coated with threadlocker - not making this up. All fixed up now.

DERP! The adjusters had threadlocker, not antiseize!

 

[little_joe]

Now it stops straight! I need to fiddle with adjusting some more because the bias f-r is not right, rears lock up before front and the front are (too) tight. On my test drive tonight to go get some ethanol-free gas, confidence in it was restored; and I ran out of gas. Time to fix the cluster......

 

[fourtrax]

yeah

 

[roadstr6]

Great news! Well... except for the running out of gas part. Sounds like you're on your way now. Glad I could help.