OSNC's Latest - a guy gets a 40

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Joe -

Just catching up on this. So glad you changed your mind about changing your mind buddy! Just have patience. Dave's post Sunday night was dead on. Just take it slow. Get it driving safe and then get some seat time. There will be some days cool enough during the summer to drive it, and then it will be Fall.

Remember....it will never be "done", so why get super hung up on getting it closer to "done" quickly? If it goes, turns, and stops reliably, the rest is just details.
 
little_joe said:
Now it stops straight! I need to fiddle with adjusting some more because the bias f-r is not right, rears lock up before front and the front are (too) tight. On my test drive tonight to go get some ethanol-free gas, confidence in it was restored; and I ran out of gas. Time to fix the cluster......
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Joe, The fronts are fairly easy to adjust as you are able to spin the wheels easily to find the sweet spot. The rears are more difficult because there is driveline resistance. If you feel that they are too tight about all you can do is back them off a couple of clicks, take it for a drive, repeat if necessary. As I said earlier, it does take some time and effort to get the drums dialed in but once you do, you'll be good to go for a long time. From that point your adjustments will just be a click or two on every cylinder once a year or so depending on how much you drive it.

About the electrical issues and the cluster...be sure to disconnect the battery before you pull out the cluster. There are some connections behind the cluster bezel that, if they come into contact with the metal dash, will arc and possibly cause harm to the gauges or maybe to you.

Keep up the good work and good luck!
 
@roadstr6 thank you for your ongoing interest and sharing your wisdom! The rear bleeders are seized up, I've been applying Kroil so I can properly bleed them then will adjust.

I've pulled the cluster a few times already and read about disconnecting the battery beforehand, so that's covered.:beer:
 
Dumb question: was the vacuum (?) activated front drive offered with a floor-mount 3-speed? I have the lever for FD and instructions are on the glovebox plaque; but the lever is not connected to anything. I thought this feature was available only with the column shifted 3-speed?

I'm starting to think someone swapped in a tranny and transfer case from perhaps a 55 or some other year 40. The FD parts aside from the lever are all gone; the parking brake backing plate had the cable access on the wrong side (passenger).
 
little_joe said:
Dumb question: was the vacuum (?) activated front drive offered with a floor-mount 3-speed? I have the lever for FD and instructions are on the glovebox plaque; but the lever is not connected to anything. I thought this feature was available only with the column shifted 3-speed?

I'm starting to think someone swapped in a tranny and transfer case from perhaps a 55 or some other year 40. The FD parts aside from the lever are all gone; the parking brake backing plate had the cable access on the wrong side (passenger).
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I don't think so...and a floor shift trans wasn't offered in your year. Someone had swapped the column shift for floor shift in my truck too, but left all the vacuum FD stuff in tact. I pulled all of it and am not using any of it. You are welcome to the pieces if you plan to go back to vacuum.
 
Thanks Jon. I could of swore floor shift was an option, but am likely mistaken. I don't even know how the vacuum stuff works but will read up on it. If you don't want the junk, I'll gladly take it.
 
Jon, disregard my interest in the parts. Mine was definitely converted from column shift and the vacuum 4WD, I have some parts still attached from that old setup. Don't need the added hassle of vacuum 4wd.
 
The vacuum setup is actually quite robust. I've seen them look like hell and still work perfectly. Look at what you've got and take the easiest path to 4wd whether vacuum or mechanical. Don't discount the vacuum just because it's not a direct connect. If the linkages steer you toward vacuum, don't be afraid to go that route. It may make you feel better to know that even if you encounter a vacuum problem the linkage on the case can easily be moved by hand to activate 4wd if you get in a hard spot and really need it.
 
roadstr6 said:
The vacuum setup is actually quite robust. I've seen them look like hell and still work perfectly. Look at what you've got and take the easiest path to 4wd whether vacuum or mechanical. Don't discount the vacuum just because it's not a direct connect. If the linkages steer you toward vacuum, don't be afraid to go that route. It may make you feel better to know that even if you encounter a vacuum problem the linkage on the case can easily be moved by hand to activate 4wd if you get in a hard spot and really need it.
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I loved it in the LV. Seeing the indicator light glowing on the dash for 4wd low was something I relished.
 
I just threw the 69' in vacuum 4WD the other day to test it and it worked like I champ with Green Indicator light. Been a while since I saw that but worked like a champ. I plan to leave it for year era's sake.
 
If @S4Cruiser still wants to part with the vacuum stuff, I'll give it a shot. Which leads to a philosophical question:

My intention was/is to keep this as stock as possible. Right now, headlights and tires are non-stock, along with the 4wd engagement.

However, I'll likely never do a concours restoration. I'll keep the manual steering, maybe even the drum brakes, definitely the 3-speed and F in stock trim; ultimately I need to do something with the suspension. But I wonder if by keeping it all/mostly stock will ultimately hinder enjoyment?

The biggest question in my mind now is removing the top. Doing so is trivial; however, there is no roll bar. For driving around town that's ok; driving on the freeway I'd be concerned, and no hard top/no roll bar == no participation in many events. I really hesitate to even consider installing a used stock rollbar (drilling tub, and doing like Dean to keep the long jump seats), and something like MT is out of the question.

So then: keep it almost entirely stock, or do some mods to increase enjoyment/useability?

Discuss.:steer:
 
little_joe said:
If @S4Cruiser still wants to part with the vacuum stuff, I'll give it a shot. Which leads to a philosophical question:

My intention was/is to keep this as stock as possible. Right now, headlights and tires are non-stock, along with the 4wd engagement.

However, I'll likely never do a concours restoration. I'll keep the manual steering, maybe even the drum brakes, definitely the 3-speed and F in stock trim; ultimately I need to do something with the suspension. But I wonder if by keeping it all/mostly stock will ultimately hinder enjoyment?

The biggest question in my mind now is removing the top. Doing so is trivial; however, there is no roll bar. For driving around town that's ok; driving on the freeway I'd be concerned, and no hard top/no roll bar == no participation in many events. I really hesitate to even consider installing a used stock rollbar (drilling tub, and doing like Dean to keep the long jump seats), and something like MT is out of the question.

So then: keep it almost entirely stock, or do some mods to increase enjoyment/useability?

Discuss.:steer:
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It's yours if you want it...but you do have to come by vs bullshitting about it :hillbilly:

I'm no purist so, take my comment with a grain of salt but I'd mod certain things to aid in enjoyment. I mean that's why we have these hobbies, right...needs to be fun. Also most mods you're considering would be easily reversed if you ever decided to get crazy and do a restoration.

If you had to have a cage, maybe do something custom that uses existing holes for the jump seats. It would at least provide some protection. Could also make it look stock.
 
My $0.02:

Get the vacuum stuff from Jon and squirrel it away for the time being. Focus on making the truck road worthy and then drive it like you stole it.

I'm like you in that my truck is still fairly stock and I'll never be able to justify a nut and bolt restoration and I don't think I'd be able to enjoy it as much if I did.

I've thought about having Marshall add the electric assisted steering (the LV's power steering is one of the things I miss most and the electric assisted steering Marshall installed on a customer's truck looked CLEAN) and have toyed with the idea of a OME 2.5" lift over the years. I'm interested to know why you think you need to "do something with the suspension.

I vote for removing the top and driving the truck around town as much as possible as long as the weather permits. Use your DD for interstate driving and take your creampuff to Logan's Run or drive the 40 and plan to ride shotgun with someone else. Next year's Carolina Relic Run will most likely be in April to avoid the heat and you'll pass inspection with the top on.
 
FJinTegaCay said:
I'm interested to know why you think you need to "do something with the suspension.
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Because railroad track is more compliant than my springs. I don't really want to lift it, but stock-height springs would have to be custom afaik from someone like Atlas, Deaver, Alcan, etc.
 
little_joe said:
Because railroad track is more compliant than my springs. I don't really want to lift it, but stock-height springs would have to be custom afaik from someone like Atlas, Deaver, Alcan, etc.
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You should ride in another 40 with stock springs and bench seat for comparison as it might be "normal".

I'd bet there are other options but check this out: Safari Suspension Systems FJ40 Stock Height

You might even find someone to re-arch what you have. I considered that several years ago and found a company here that could do it.
 
FJinTegaCay said:
You should ride in another 40 with stock springs and bench seat for comparison as it might be "normal".

I'd bet there are other options but check this out: Safari Suspension Systems FJ40 Stock Height

You might even find someone to re-arch what you have. I considered that several years ago and found a company here that could do it.
Click to expand...

Hrm was not aware of that from the former ManaFre, thanks @FJinTegaCay ! I have 0 interest in having mine rearched for a variety of reasons.
 
IMO an OME 2-1/2" lift and 33's on factory steelies will not hurt your value at all. It would be favorable over worn out stock springs and it will be more fun on the trails. That lift/tire combination is just right for a 40. So much so that when you see a nice one you almost expect it to have that stance. It practically passes for stock these days. If money is no object, spring for a roll bar. Again, buyers want to see it in there regardless of originality. You'd have to research how to work around the long jump seats but it can be done.

Consider these things long term goals. For now, get it right and drive it. Check your spring bushings. I'd wager that they are ovaled out and you have metal to metal in those shackles. Replace the bushings and you may pick up a half inch of ride height. You will be much happier with the ride too.
 
@roadstr6 I nixed the idea of 33's, with the needed lift and hard top I couldn't get in the garage. The spring bushings are shot, I get the tell-tale clanging so I'll replace them.

I've been taking drives each night since I sorted the brakes. Aside from suspension, it goes, steers, stops pretty well and confidently; so progress is evident...
 
little_joe said:
@roadstr6 I nixed the idea of 33's, with the needed lift and hard top I couldn't get in the garage. The spring bushings are shot, I get the tell-tale clanging so I'll replace them.

I've been taking drives each night since I sorted the brakes. Aside from suspension, it goes, steers, stops pretty well and confidently; so progress is evident...
Click to expand...

Awesome Joe, glad to hear your progress. Happy Birthday too, by the way :cheers::clap::beer:
 
Congrats and happy birthday indeed! Sounds like good enough reason for an evening cruise with jacob to a bottle shop...... or just a lap around town.
 
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