Build Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more

[Anthony Miller]

You will probably have to swap master cylinders to keep the rear brakes from dragging.

A residual valve is usually used with drum brakes. The valve holds roughly 10 psi in the brake lines going to the wheel cylinders. This keeps pressure against the return springs inside the drum. This means the brakes engage faster with less pedal travel. You don’t need/want this with a disc brake setup. Normally the residual valve is in the master cylinder but I’m not 100% sure on FJ60 system.

 

[wngrog]

You will probably have to swap master cylinders to keep the rear brakes from dragging.

A residual valve is usually is used with drum brakes. The valve holds roughly 10 psi in the brake lines going to the wheel cylinders. This keeps pressure against the return springs inside the drum. This means the brakes engage faster with less pedal travel. You don’t need/want this with a disc brake setup. Normally the residual valve is in the master cylinder but I’m not 100% sure on FJ60 system.

That certainly makes sense. I know the 40 drum masters do this.

Plus my Motive Bleeder is set up for that master. I had to use the universal plate on the 60 master and it leaked all over while I was building pressure the first time.

My fluid could use some more flushing anyway. It was clearing up but it was dirty

 

[wngrog]

Added the 80 Master. Rears are not dragging anymore. Fronts a little. I pulled the pins and greased them.

The adjuster pin in my old 60 master is crusty and did not want to adjust so I have a bit deeper pedal than I desire. I’ll need to grab a new city racer booster so I can mate the two up nicely.

Rear brakes lock up now first which I was afraid of. I’ll be getting a Wilwood proportion valve in mail.

Truck drives great. I think the OD looks like I lost 300 RPM at cruise which is nice. Those 7 - 8 hour days running 3000-3100 on the interstate were probably not good on the ole 2F
Also adjusted my caster and got my steering wheel nice and centered. These tools are clutch for that.

Worked my way through my punch list. Dialed in a little more timing searching for ping. Sitting at 12* now. Seems happy.

More shakedown reports soon

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Looking great! Did you end up using spacers on the front? I wonder what would happen if you converted to the 4runner front calipers? I am guessing with a pressure issue it would might not help having the larger piston?

 

[wngrog]

On my FJ45 I did the 4Runner calipers. I’m not sure it’s worth the effort.

I ordered a new Booster and a proportion valve and I’ll be in business. The way the 60 master locked up all 4 tells me I have all the caliper I need.

 

[MoaByte]

Brakes are for pussies! . JK, but the back locking up first is no bueno. Still better than a Willey's though.

 

[wngrog]

A little gear tech

First two photos are 255/85-16 (33”) , 4 speed, 3.70s

2500 RPM got me 65 mph

3000 RPM got me 75 mph

 

[wngrog]

Today Same tires 5 speed and 4.11s

2500 RPM

3000 RPM

 

[MoaByte]

Today Same tires 5 speed and 4.11s

View attachment 2876913

2500 RPM

View attachment 2876914

3000 RPM

That is what my spreadsheet said would happen. It's nice to see your proof. How does it like taking off in 2nd gear?
Is your speedo reading accurate now?

 

[wngrog]

It will start in 2nd especially if you are on flat ground or rolling through a stop sign.

Spreadsheets are usually wrong because people think they are running 33s or 35s but they bought a BFG product and they are really running a 31 or a 33.

Gotta measure tires on the truck and go from there.

As you can see in the photos the speedo is 10% more/less off. I did not ask @orangefj45 to match my tires with speedo gear so I’m assuming he installed the OEM one back.

Most people do H55s for the 1st and 5th gears which makes sense. My truck needs the low first 1% of the time. It’s nice. Will be able to really use my lockers on something technical now. That said, the H42 low 1st coupled with the Sniper let me go as slow as I wanted. The sniper keeps the RPMs at 650 and you can concentrate on driving. It’s like cruise control on the rocks.


5th gear….sure. That extra 5 mph is nice. My motor is built to run at 3000 all day but it’s nice not to have to.


I got it for a 3rd gear. Why in the world would I do that? Well it’s not the ridiculous gap from 2nd to 3rd that’s for sure.

It’s the range 3rd has for driving the mountains (small mountains where I normally go, but they are mountains)

With the H42 I could get 35-45 mph and that just won’t keep up with traffic on long hills. 4th sometimes won’t pull the hill so you die then you are slow.

The H55 3rd gear range loves this punched out 2F. I can accelerate all the way to 4000 and hold and keep up with most traffic flows

It’s where my FJ55 really shined and I missed it on my last trip to Missouri in the 60 thus starting this $15,000 cascade

 

[wngrog]

Just got back from a 4 hour test run. All systems are go. Only thing left is a brake booster/prop valve for perfect.

Ran the tank almost empty and put $136 worth of 93 octane in. Bumped my fuel a bit in the Sniper and the timing up to 13. Really running strong.

Hi @euclid

 

[FJBen]

It will start in 2nd especially if you are on flat ground or rolling through a stop sign.

Spreadsheets are usually wrong because people think they are running 33s or 35s but they bought a BFG product and they are really running a 31 or a 33.

Gotta measure tires on the truck and go from there.

As you can see in the photos the speedo is 10% more/less off. I did not ask @orangefj45 to match my tires with speedo gear so I’m assuming he installed the OEM one back.

Most people do H55s for the 1st and 5th gears which makes sense. My truck needs the low first 1% of the time. It’s nice. Will be able to really use my lockers on something technical now. That said, the H42 low 1st coupled with the Sniper let me go as slow as I wanted. The sniper keeps the RPMs at 650 and you can concentrate on driving. It’s like cruise control on the rocks.


5th gear….sure. That extra 5 mph is nice. My motor is built to run at 3000 all day but it’s nice not to have to.


I got it for a 3rd gear. Why in the world would I do that? Well it’s not the ridiculous gap from 2nd to 3rd that’s for sure.

It’s the range 3rd has for driving the mountains (small mountains where I normally go, but they are mountains)

With the H42 I could get 35-45 mph and that just won’t keep up with traffic on long hills. 4th sometimes won’t pull the hill so you die then you are slow.

The H55 3rd gear range loves this punched out 2F. I can accelerate all the way to 4000 and hold and keep up with most traffic flows

It’s where my FJ55 really shined and I missed it on my last trip to Missouri in the 60 thus starting this $15,000 cascade

Thats pretty much the same as my setup now. 255/85r16 Yoko's 4.11, H55F puts me at 65mph around 2300~2350rpm. Redline is 4100, but I haven't gone near that lol. 3,400 is the highest I've gone.

I usually don't start out in second either, it can do it but I think it's easier for it and the clutch starting in 1st.

 

[wngrog]

Thats pretty much the same as my setup now. 255/85r16 Yoko's 4.11, H55F puts me at 65mph around 2300~2350rpm. Redline is 4100, but I haven't gone near that lol. 3,400 is the highest I've gone.

I usually don't start out in second either, it can do it but I think it's easier for it and the clutch starting in 1st.

Although my motor is a “Cop lite” or a Constable model …..

(4.4 bore and the full trick Mosley Head)

…..the two times we’ve put these motors on the Dyno they make HP past the theoretical 4100 redline. The stock 2F dies out at 3000 or so. That’s why you want to shift. No reason to take it any further.

This motor pulls good through 4000

The last one we dynoed the guy did not know to back off at 4500 and ran it up to 5500 lol

 

[MoaByte]

Although my motor is a “Cop lite” or a Constable model …..

(4.4 bore and the full trick Mosley Head)

…..the two times we’ve put these motors on the Dyno they make HP past the theoretical 4100 redline. The stock 2F dies out at 3000 or so. That’s why you want to shift. No reason to take it any further.

This motor pulls good through 4000

The last one we dynoed the guy did not know to back off at 4500 and ran it up to 5500 lol

Mosley must have put stronger valve springs in. I'd bet stock they would float and crash into the Pistons at that RPM. Pretty cool!

 

[wngrog]

Mosley must have put stronger valve springs in. I'd bet stock they would float and crash into the Pistons at that RPM. Pretty cool!

LS valves and springs. Yes.

 

[cruisermatt]

$15k?? Are you paying yourself labor now

Im surprised you didnt stick with the 3.70’s. I am liking them more and more these days as 2F’s are running better then ever with all the Sniper conversions

 

[wngrog]

$15k?? Are you paying yourself labor now

Im surprised you didnt stick with the 3.70’s. I am liking them more and more these days as 2F’s are running better then ever with all the Sniper conversions

So you can rebuild stuff faster AND buy parts cheaper.
You sir, are quite accomplished for a 25 year old kid. Impressive.

 

[cruisermatt]

I missed the steering box, RCV, winch and factor 55 stuff, sue me

Nice parts list. Thanks for the compliment too.

 

[wngrog]

Clean.

 

[wngrog]

Got the non ABS disc/disc 80 master and the City Racer booster installed with a Wilwood proportion valve.

Fronts and rears lock up at the same time now and there is no drag.

Thoughts on this setup….the brakes are no better than a stock Disc/Drum setup if the drums are working well.

Also got this cool sign from Yukon Kit on TLCA Facebook