Build Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more

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You just need to load your camping gear and jump the RR tracks a few times a day for a week. šŸ˜„

I already skied over them a dozen times testing rebound. It’s very cool to be able to adjust in the fly.
 
I’m going to have to remove a leaf up front to get it a good testing.

Keep in mind, I intentionally ordered the HJ61 front springs versus the FJ60 front springs because it allows me to pull leaves versus add leaves of long front shackles. I’m still in the test phase and won’t be able to give the full report until I can get the front down a bit.

These highly arched springs usually sack out a bit pretty quick then settle so I’m thinking that the leaf removal will end up being perfect up there.

Good info thanks.
 
I was going to wait on my @lcwizard flip kit to yank the front leaf out of my pack but he’s having a backlog due to shock pin supply so I decided to go ahead
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Pulling a leaf while the pack is on the truck is a dance but if you’ve done it before it’s not bad.

Put a jack under the hub. Loosen the ubolts and jack the axle up to get a vice grip on the spring pin.
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Take all of the retainer Ubolts off. Clamp the pack then loosen the spring pin bolt.

Carefully release the clamp and remove the leaf you want. In this case it was the 3rd long leaf (one without a Ubolt retainer)

Now to go back, I clamp one at a time clear on the end where the next leaf will clear.
Work up one at a time. When it gets to the final two I run the pin bolt tight. Then clamp the pack tight. Loosen the spring pin bolt and add the last two. Re tight the pin bolt. Took me about an hour for both

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Shackle angle is slightly forward now. This will allow some settling in the pack and should be perfect after a good weekend of trails.
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Front end came down 1/2ā€ on both corners which is just what I was looking for.
 
I took the truck out and put 100 Miles on it playing with shock settings. It’s truly amazing that you can feel the difference with just one click each direction in the MRR shocks. I’m still dialing it in for my normal driving but it’s super easy and fun to have this much adjustment with a couple knobs per corner
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One other thing I did. When we did the O2 bung on this header I did not know what all I know now about a happy O2 position. I now put it on the collector but really the masters at Holley say 8ā€ past the collector.
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I found this little adapter that will take the O2 temps to what they should be rearward of the header. I’ve burned through 2 with the Sniper on this truck and I feel this will stop that.
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I have used those spacers before but for tricking post cat o2 sensor into thinking that the cat is still there after removal.
I wonder if spacing the sensor out of the exhaust stream will affect the sensors reading and therefor the air fuel ratio?
 
They say this is what this thing is for. It has a hole in the front that directs heat up into its. 2 O2 in 6000 miles is not terrible but I figured why not try this. It cost about as much as an O2
 
They say this is what this thing is for. It has a hole in the front that directs heat up into its. 2 O2 in 6000 miles is not terrible but I figured why not try this. It cost about as much as an O2
Cool solution, if it works out. Are you saying that you put your 02 sensor too far up the collector when it should have been further down the exhaust stream due to heat issues?
 
Cool solution, if it works out. Are you saying that you put your 02 sensor too far up the collector when it should have been further down the exhaust stream due to heat issues?
Correct. This was my very first one back when the truck had AFI. Further rabbit hole Holley reading I keep seeing 8ā€ back from
The collector. My other two are at the collector. I bought one for each of them as well.
 
Correct. This was my very first one back when the truck had AFI. Further rabbit hole Holley reading I keep seeing 8ā€ back from
The collector. My other two are at the collector. I bought one for each of them as well.
Here's a pic to show the extension into the exhaust pipe:

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That is pretty trick.
 
Man. I hate working on motors I built. I use so much Permatex aircraft sealant on my hoses and gaskets a simple thermostat job gets complicated.

I have 3 very similar 2Fs with Sniper and all new cooling systems. My 60 runs a good 15-20* warmer than my 45/55 so @FJ60Cam suggested I try a early 2F 180* thermostat and see.

Of course with my Permatex hoses and gasket that was a bigger job than normal.

But that done. This is the 180*
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When I was dealing with shoe-horning a fan clutch into my FJ55 I was looking for the shortest pump/clutch/fan setup. Now looking at my FJ60, I’m wondering if I should get one of the deeper fan clutches to push my fan up into the shroud more.

When we were messing with the 55 @Onur sent me some pics of clutches he had that were considerably deeper than this red Aisin. I’m running.

Thoughts? I’d like to see someone else’s 60 to see how deep your fan is into the shroud.

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Sniper setups I install use a simple Lokar 36ā€ cable. Mosley sends them with the kits along with the bracket for the Sniper. Also from Lokar.

Easy button. I’ve tried some of the other setups that use the stock layout but it just seems complicated.

That said it is critical that you keep this cable (rubber or stainless sheath) well away from the heat of the manifold.

I guess I messed up my routing when I changed my O2 sensor yesterday because it got next to the heat and cooked and my cable stopped working.

Just a tip. I’ve had it happen before and knew better but I did not know I did it until too late. I keep a spare in my Sniper spare trail bag I move to whatever vehicle I’m taking on a trip.

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The fan science rule of thumb on shrouds is to have half of depth of the fan in the shroud, half out. That looks right from the pic.
 
Man. I hate working on motors I built. I use so much Permatex aircraft sealant on my hoses and gaskets a simple thermostat job gets complicated.

Get yourself some Gasgacinch - we call it "girly glue" due to the label. Seals things up but isn't nearly the mess to take apart that the Permatex product is.

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Dobinsons update.

Spent an hour driving the same rough ass section of country road by my house working on dialing in the Dobinsons MRRs

I set them at recommended constant load settings in the manual and felt for the things they list in the manual and started adjusting

At the end this is what I need on my truck for firm high speed rough 2 lane.

When I get this thing out on the trails I’ll be able to soften it up with some quick turns and then get it back in seconds.

Super cool to have a brand new set of highly arched springs be this smooth and controllable

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Try the FJ80 3FE fan clutch. Mine idles at 199* at 750 idle with the AC on and the ac blowing in 100* heat. It’s also much more consistent in operation than the previous factory Aisin clutch.

I’m using a 190* t stat with a digital temp gauge. It runs at about 180* most of the time.

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Try the FJ80 3FE fan clutch. Mine idles at 199* at 750 idle with the AC on and the ac blowing in 100* heat. It’s also much more consistent in operation than the previous factory Aisin clutch.

I’m using a 190* t stat with a digital temp gauge. It runs at about 180* most of the time.

View attachment 2635757

View attachment 2635758

I actually have one of those here. now to get motivated enough to swap it in.

I put 100 miles on the 60 today adjusting the shocks and 100% forgot to look at temps to see if the 180 thermo helped šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø
 
Fun story. I have an Instagram page called 89nOlder and some random guy told me he wanted to send me some retro Cruiser World stripes he purchased for a 60 he never closed the deal on. I said sure and a month later they landed here via England. I had no idea where he was from and knowing international shipping I was pretty touched this guy would send the stripes to me.
Today I took Ole Blue in for some 75% ceramic tint and had the stripes with me. The tint shop said ā€œabsolutelyā€ and I had them installed......

I love it.

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