Build Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more

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Ran down to the CottonLand club meeting and no pressure built up in the tank.

Not sure exactly which thing I did fixed it but I think I’m good to go.

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I’ve developed a bit of a rough idle lately. The truck ran the same overall but if you were at 750 rpm the shifter was shaking.

Not knowing exactly where to go with it, I started simple.

I removed the DUI cap. Checked it out. Looked fine. You can see where the rotor contacts the sides. Kind of uneven. No idea if that’s correct.
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Cleaned the contacts real good with Kroil and a Scotchbrite.

Then I removed all the livewires and added a tad bit of dialectic grease to all the contacts.

Pulled the plugs. Cleaned them and gapped to .040

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All good now. Nice and smooth.
 
Looks great! It seems odd that the rotor physically touches the cap contact. The only time I have seen that, the cap ended up in pieces. Does DUI run a special cap and rotor setup where contact is expected/engineered to happen?
 
SteveH said:
Looks great! It seems odd that the rotor physically touches the cap contact. The only time I have seen that, the cap ended up in pieces. Does DUI run a special cap and rotor setup where contact is expected/engineered to happen?
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I actually have no idea. I’ll crack open the one on my 40 and see.

Now that you mention it, the marks did not look like scrapes it was just a color change. Maybe it is from the current running through it.

I’m distributor dumb to be honest.
 
I’ve had this on the shelf for a while and with all this rain and all the money I’ve spent on the Limited Slip and rebuilding the front axle with OEM parts it’s a nice bit if insurance

Plus it’s a nice clean install.

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I've seen how dust can collect on stock breather vents until they clog. Then one hot day you go through a cold stream and shock cool the diff and it blows the seal. I just run the tubes up into the engine bay and cap them with a fuel filter, but it doesn't look nearly as sano.
 
MoaByte said:
I've seen how dust can collect on stock breather vents until they clog. Then one hot day you go through a cold stream and shock cool the diff and it blows the seal. I just run the tubes up into the engine bay and cap them with a fuel filter, but it doesn't look nearly as sano.
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Yep lots of people do it this way and I did in the days of my Jeeps, but heck if you have the kit, why not.
I also have the fancy ARB system, slick simple to install and looks great
 
So, I have most of the parts to begin my desmog and Holley Sniper install on my 60. I'm leaning towards leaving the carb cooling fan on board thinking it may help the CPU in the throttle body live longer. Any thoughts on that? I was also thinking of adding a hidden security switch for the fuel pump. Wondering why Holley didn't add this feature to touch screen with a pin number.
 
wngrog said:
How will you trigger the carb fan? Can’t see that it would hurt.

Isn’t your truck still a manual transmission? That should be pretty good deterrent right there :)
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I honestly don't even know how it works now😄. I've worked on many different cars over the years but all the bigger jobs were on cars that didn't have all these smog controls. I just got the air rail removed, it was easy until I got to the last port closest to the firewall. It was challenging working in that little space behind the heater port and engine hook. I will put off cracking open a beer until I get the idler pulley installed.
 
If you still have the heat sensor for the carb fan and the wire hasn’t burnt off, it will still work. Otherwise, you can just connect that wire to ground and it will run for 15-20 minutes every time you turn the truck off, regardless of temp. There’s a “computer” in the passenger (I think) kick panel that has a timer.
 
MoaByte said:
...I was also thinking of adding a hidden security switch for the fuel pump...
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Wire it to the switched ignition lead on the Sniper. Shouldn’t have many amps flowing through it and that way the system won’t even turn on.
 
Just completed an 880 mile adventure with about 200 miles of trails. Lots of great places seen, rivers crossed, rocks whomped, ledges hopped. Got to really see the fuel injection shine on some of the steep technical climbs. Finally got to really feel the Auburn LSD do its thing quite a few times as well.

I’ve got a dying AC compressor. It’s howling when the clutch engages. Tried changing the belt but that’s not it.

Also, my fuel starvation issue showed up again. Popped the gas cap off and it cured it.

I’ve got to figure this one out.

Great trip.

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Ole Blue 60 got some new shoes today.

Here is the backstory.

I’ve been humming along happily on my KM3s These tires have done me right. Very quiet. They handle everything I’ve tossed at them which has been quite a lot since I bought them.

Then all of the sudden I get some 33x10.50-15 Maxxis Razr tires for my Pig and I realize how tiny the KM3s of the same size are.

I break out the tape measure and my 33x10.50 KMs are actually 30.5” tall.

That won’t do. Not only do I only see tiny roller skate tires when I look at them now, I also realize I’m not getting the “rubber overdrive” I seek with my 4 speed and 3.70 gears.

So, here’s the fix. 255/85-16 Yokahama MT G003s on steel wheels

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wngrog said:
Ole Blue 60 got some new shoes today.

Here is the backstory.

I’ve been humming along happily on my KM3s These tires have done me right. Very quiet. They handle everything I’ve tossed at them which has been quite a lot since I bought them.

Then all of the sudden I get some 33x10.50-15 Maxxis Razr tires for my Pig and I realize how tiny the KM3s of the same size are.

I break out the tape measure and my 33x10.50 KMs are actually 30.5” tall.

That won’t do. Not only do I only see tiny roller skate tires when I look at them now, I also realize I’m not getting the “rubber overdrive” I seek with my 4 speed and 3.70 gears.

So, here’s the fix. 255/85-16 Yokahama MT G003s on steel wheels

View attachment 1983926
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Inflating the actual size of the rubber......men are pigs.
 
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