ol' jenny build thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Looking good. Hopefully have everything back together before the weather gets real nasty. Good luck! I am curious to see if 4 disk makes a huge difference.
 
Very nicely done!

That is one of the best explanations on removing the axles with a C-clip axle I have seen. That's exactly how it went for me too.

I love Peco. I need to go talk to them next week...

Dan
 
Brake swap complete

On 12/19/09 I completed the brake swap.
  1. Installed proportioning valve
  2. removed residual valve in master cylinder
  3. bleed brakes

Wow. Nice to stop straight. No more leaking brake cylinders, adjustment, etc.

I have the proportioning valve adjusted all the way out (least braking) for the back brakes. If I press hard while braking above 20mph on a dirt road I can slightly lock the rear wheeels before the front. I may install a 2lbs residual valve for the rear if needed.

Below is a photo of the proportioning valve from Summit Racing. I took the valve down to Peco (line fabrication shop) and had them give me the connectors I needed; the brass connectors came with the prop. valve, the stainless connectors came from Peco. To install, I made one cut on the rear brake line on the passenger side firewall. Double flared the line, dry fitted the prop. valve, then secured the valve in place.

picture.php


picture.php


I bought a flaring tool from Summit Racing. After 24 attempts I still got offset double flare. Then the tool broke. Some people used the Rigid double flare tool with success. However, I gave in and dumped the cash for the Mastercool Universal flaring tool. Perfect flare on first attempt.

I also replaced the hoses to the heaters. The 2.5" shop vac hose did not fit for the defroster. However, the 2.5" hose duct from Woodworkers Supply (catalog # 124718) fits great.
 
Last edited:
Cool. So, just how many times did you drive down the gravel road and skid to a stop?

Dan

Initial set up on the prop. valve half way between "less" and "more". As I tested braking I backed off (toward "less") one full turn, tested, backed off again. Took 10 to 12 skids (with a few on pavement). I backed off all the way which almost gave me equal lock up. I did not like having the prop. valve backed all the way out so I turned the knob one full turn toward "more".
 
you do realize you want the fronts to lock up first, right? reason is the fronts give most of the braking force and if they lock up, the back does not and keeps the vehicle braking straight instead of 4wheel lockup and going into a sideways skid. or worse the rears lock up and come around the fronts that aren't locked.
 
you do realize you want the fronts to lock up first, right? reason is the fronts give most of the braking force and if they lock up, the back does not and keeps the vehicle braking straight instead of 4wheel lockup and going into a sideways skid. or worse the rears lock up and come around the fronts that aren't locked.

I do realize I want the fronts to lock up first. I will install a 2lb residual valve for the rear line. From reading other posts, the stock 10lb residual valve is too much.
 
Just an update: a few weeks ago my parts came in to convert my 3spd tranny to a 4spd tranny and some other parts to swap my F with a 2F (yes DanS, I am still planning the swap). However, my time is limited as I took an Adjunct Professor of GIS position down at NM Tech. In a few months I will have time to work on ol'Jenny; until then, the fun is on hold. This includes no time to go on snow runs etc as I am busy writing lectures and labs on the weekends.
 
Dr. Parker??
 
Just an update: a few weeks ago my parts came in to convert my 3spd tranny to a 4spd tranny and some other parts to swap my F with a 2F (yes DanS, I am still planning the swap). However, my time is limited as I took an Adjunct Professor of GIS position down at NM Tech. In a few months I will have time to work on ol'Jenny; until then, the fun is on hold. This includes no time to go on snow runs etc as I am busy writing lectures and labs on the weekends.

No problem. I'm crazy busy too at the moment. Reserve in Denver has me spending a lot of time not playing with the 40, and when I do--I'm a busy boy.

Hopefully we can get to it in short order...

Dan
 
Another Step Forward

..in the new shoes. Ok, bad pun but I thought I would run with it.

BFG 33x9.5. Not the most exciting picture, but hey...only running on 4/6 cylinders - I will drive it where I can. Next step, heart transplant (engine/tranny).

picture.php
 
Last edited:
..in the new shoes. Ok, bad pun but I thought I would run with it.

BFG 33x9.5. Not the most exciting picture, but hey...only running on 4/6 cylinders - I will drive it where I can. Next step, heart transplant (engine/tranny).

source3-albums-buildthread-picture13620-bfg-33x9-5.jpg

Man that looks good. Really, seriously good.

I'll be home the 19th and 20th, and then again from the evening of the 25th through the end of the month. Then we can get you towards driving it...

Dan
 
I'll be home the 19th and 20th, and then again from the evening of the 25th through the end of the month. Then we can get you towards driving it...

Dan

I am assuming you mean April and not May. Yesterday afternoon my time became even more limited. I cannot even think about making a project list until May 17th.
 
Warn 8274

Just bought this today....I know you will ask....$375 + shipping.
picture.php


I guess I will need to add a new alternator and battery to my engine swap list! Got to love project creep!!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom