Were you ever able to shift without using the clutch? I'm able to shift through gears on mine without as long as I'm in the rpm range of a normal shift. May narrow down the issue but I'm just guessing.
NV4500 / Chevy 350 / Clutch issues - Can't shift into/out of gear
- Thread starter jesus888
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- Thread starter
- #22
You mean previously, when s*** was working? I'm not exactly sure, I guess is the answer... I just usually pushed in the clutch and made my change...
The push rod can look like it has full travel, but it's the throw out bearing that matters which is inside and not visible. The nut on the push rod needs to be adjusted, possibly out further than it is, to where the throw out bearing is close but not touching the release levers on the pressure plate. I would take the spring off the release fork and move it by hand to get a feel for when the throw out bearing is touching the release levers. That will verify where it should be at rest. Then adjust nut on push rod until it's held at that position. Add spring back. That will give you the max travel on the pressure plate. Remember the clutch slave is short travel so it need to be adjusted to make best use of the limited range.
BTW I can't see the push rod in the photo you posted, but you may need to move it to a notch on release fork that's closer to the bell housing. That will also create more travel at the throw out bearing.
- Thread starter
- #25
I like the advice. Sounds like I can figure out at lest what I'm looking for with that
Busy doing turkey stuff at the moment but this is on the schedule FOR SURE.
terrxs is spot on about the T.O. bringing being adjusted right up to the pressure plate fingers, but not actually riding on them- - -Landcruisers don't have enough hydraulic travel to be able to waist any of it. Even when adjusted like this, you may not have enough hydraulic travel to fully disengage a Chevy clutch. AA and Downey offer Chevota clutches that require less travel to disengage for this exact reason.
(a) If the T.O. bearing is not touching the pressure plate fingers, bearing will last longer, but may not get clutch fully disengaged, so you drag through the gears.
(b) If T.O. bearing is adjusted to where it rides on the pressure plate fingers, you would get full disengagement, but you'd keep wearing out T.O. bearings, let alone never being fully engaged, and disc actually slipping.
The Mud guys who claim they are using a stock Chevy clutch with no problems "probably" have problem (1) or (2) above and just don't recognize it?????
(a) If the T.O. bearing is not touching the pressure plate fingers, bearing will last longer, but may not get clutch fully disengaged, so you drag through the gears.
(b) If T.O. bearing is adjusted to where it rides on the pressure plate fingers, you would get full disengagement, but you'd keep wearing out T.O. bearings, let alone never being fully engaged, and disc actually slipping.
The Mud guys who claim they are using a stock Chevy clutch with no problems "probably" have problem (1) or (2) above and just don't recognize it?????
- Thread starter
- #27
ROOT CAUSE DETERMINED
Finally... once we got EVERYTHING apart (by "we" I meant he shop I took it to), the clutch spring retainer piece pictured... was broken and not allowing the clutch to work properly... spring was gonna go next. While he was inside, he showed me the pilot bushing (or what was left of it) and some other parts showing some wear. Sad because the clutch has some life left, but just replacing it all since it took FOREVER to get it apart. BTB Products engineers a really nice setup on their builds but it takes AGES to take it all apart... lots of good things stuffed into this FJ. Anyways, should be getting her back Monday, and just wanted to come full circle on the details and offer my sincere THANKS on folks helping out
Finally... once we got EVERYTHING apart (by "we" I meant he shop I took it to), the clutch spring retainer piece pictured... was broken and not allowing the clutch to work properly... spring was gonna go next. While he was inside, he showed me the pilot bushing (or what was left of it) and some other parts showing some wear. Sad because the clutch has some life left, but just replacing it all since it took FOREVER to get it apart. BTB Products engineers a really nice setup on their builds but it takes AGES to take it all apart... lots of good things stuffed into this FJ. Anyways, should be getting her back Monday, and just wanted to come full circle on the details and offer my sincere THANKS on folks helping out
IIRC there are two different pilot bushings with Advance Adapters bell housings. Earlier bell housings are shorter than later production (or vice versa). If not too late give AA a call with the model number on bell housing and/or depth of the bell housing. You want the right one so the input shaft is properly supported.