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- #81
And am I supposed to run it or let it idle with the choke open? I can't tell from the other threads I found...
Novice Needs Help!
- Thread starter IamGhost
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You are confusing (me, at least) with your terms. When you pull on the choke cable in the cab, it closes the choke plate at the top of the carb (at least it is supposed to). But you are talking about having the choke "open", which would be the same as having the choke "turned off". But I think you really mean having it "turned on"--which would be closed.
However, with the advanced engineering of the 2F carburetor, there are two vacuum circuits that will automatically open the choke plate regardless how far the choke knob is extended. The choke opener will fully open the choke when the engine is warmed up, and the choke breaker will open the choke partially after the engine starts running (regardless of temperature).
I think the "okie rebuild" is really achieved by covering the top opening of carburetor with your hand to increase the vacuum inside the carburetor above the throttle plates, thereby flushing gasoline through circuits that my be clogged. I think NeverGiveUpYota is also suggesting you could try to stall the engine this way, and if it doesn't stall then that would indicate you have a vacuum leak.
Given the amount of crud in the pic of that fuel filter, you probably have trash in your carb. Try pulling the two plugs on the front of the carb to drain it. Hold a towel under them and see how much trash comes out. You can also pull the wire to the distributor (coil wire) and crank the truck over with the plugs out of the carb to flush more fuel through. Maybe you'll catch the crud that is causing the truck to stumble. My bet is that the carb jets are probably clogged (or at least partially clogged) and you will need to take the carb off, disassemble and clean it.
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It's my opinion that you should focus on getting this engine running right before tackling smaller problems like brakes, minor exhaust or coolant leaks.
Think about what it takes to make and engine run, air, gas, spark, timing and compression. Check all those out first. Tune up stuff.
1. is the carb fuel 1/2 way up in the sight window?
2. Can you confirm spark coming off each spark plug?
3. The plugs fouled? Pull them out number them by cylinder and take a picture and post it here. Are they wet? Are they completely covered in soot?
4. Are the plug wires put on the motor in the correct order?
5. can you put a timing light on the window and see if its anywhere close?
5. What is the compression of each cylinder.
6. Do you have any major hissing from a vacuum leak around the intake? Believe me a few vacuum lines loose will not make a motor shake and stall like that. Its got to be a HUGE leak.
Beyond this, its time to take off the air cleaner and leave it off for now. You don't need it to run the truck and you need it off to check out the carb. look down into the carb to see if fuel is squirting down the venturi when you move the linkage at the back of the carb. If its just a trickle, you have found your problem.. trash in the carb jets or bad accelerator pump (thats part of the carb) If you remove the fuel line from the front of the carb and turn the key (not start the truck just crank) can you see good flow of clean fuel coming from the fuel pump. You can pull the coil wire off to keep the truck from starting while you are cranking. Put it in a quart sized clear glass mason jar under the fuel line and catch the fuel. Once it settles do you see water or trash?
If you have the mechanical aptitude, remove the carb and look down in the bore of the intake where the carb was sitting. Make sure there is no crack at the bottom. while the carb is out, rebuild it,
Think about what it takes to make and engine run, air, gas, spark, timing and compression. Check all those out first. Tune up stuff.
1. is the carb fuel 1/2 way up in the sight window?
2. Can you confirm spark coming off each spark plug?
3. The plugs fouled? Pull them out number them by cylinder and take a picture and post it here. Are they wet? Are they completely covered in soot?
4. Are the plug wires put on the motor in the correct order?
5. can you put a timing light on the window and see if its anywhere close?
5. What is the compression of each cylinder.
6. Do you have any major hissing from a vacuum leak around the intake? Believe me a few vacuum lines loose will not make a motor shake and stall like that. Its got to be a HUGE leak.
Beyond this, its time to take off the air cleaner and leave it off for now. You don't need it to run the truck and you need it off to check out the carb. look down into the carb to see if fuel is squirting down the venturi when you move the linkage at the back of the carb. If its just a trickle, you have found your problem.. trash in the carb jets or bad accelerator pump (thats part of the carb) If you remove the fuel line from the front of the carb and turn the key (not start the truck just crank) can you see good flow of clean fuel coming from the fuel pump. You can pull the coil wire off to keep the truck from starting while you are cranking. Put it in a quart sized clear glass mason jar under the fuel line and catch the fuel. Once it settles do you see water or trash?
If you have the mechanical aptitude, remove the carb and look down in the bore of the intake where the carb was sitting. Make sure there is no crack at the bottom. while the carb is out, rebuild it,
- Thread starter
- #85
Sorry - totally my fault. Yes, by "wide open" I mean "totally closed". I didn't realize this was how it worked, but I meant "choke knob pulled all the way out, light on, choke engaged"
For a huge leak I would be looking at the connection at the base of the carb, the vacuum lines at the intake manifold, the PCV valve connection, and the brake booster
- Thread starter
- #87
Thanks G-Man. Agreed and this is my plan, focusing on the engine first.
1. I don't know that I have a sight window, not that I have seen. Remember I'm a complete novice with this engine and used to working on more modern stuff. I will look for this though to check.
2. I will check the spark and confirm.
3/5. I will check the plugs and do a compression check at the same time.
4. I assume I can confirm the wiring orientation in the FSM, will check to see if it's in there (I have never worked on anything with a distributor before)
5. What window are you talking about here? I don't have a timing light but can get one - just not sure how to use it here?
6. Not a hiss that I can hear but the motor is loud in itself. Hard to hear over the loud exhaust leak.
I'll pull the air cleaner and have a look and also test the fuel deliver TO carb per your recommendation. My ignition switch went out last year and instead of replacing the cylinder I bypassed it with a push button start. I only mention this because I can easily turn the motor over by hitting this button but if I keep the key off, it will not start.
Blue circle is the carb sight glass - batwing shaped. You should see fuel half way up when the engine is running.
Here is a better version with more annotation:
The carb bowl plugs I was speaking about removing to drain the bowl are in the front of the carb below the sight glass. One of them is pictured in the circled area above just to the right of the fuel inlet line and below the sight glass (looks like a bolt head). There is a second plug that is abscured from the photo behind red spaghetti, but it is there. Pull those out to drain the carb bowl.
Depending on where you are in Wilmington, you are less than 2 hours away from me. I can come down and give you hand depending on your schedule. I have a freshly rebuilt carb sitting in a box. We could swap that on to continue diagnosing leaks while yours is getting a thorough cleaning. DM me if you want to work out details.
1. fuel window:
2. spark...check the gap and the resistance while your there:
4. firing order is in the 2f engine is 1-5-3-6-2-4 this is found in the engine service specs back of the 2f engine fsm. Notice the compression limits and the timing.
read the bottom right side>>>149 to 114 psi less than 14 difference is ok.
2. spark...check the gap and the resistance while your there:
4. firing order is in the 2f engine is 1-5-3-6-2-4 this is found in the engine service specs back of the 2f engine fsm. Notice the compression limits and the timing.
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The timing mark is behind this cover on the flywheel housing. find the dizzy and work your way back on the block until you see where it bolts to the flywheel housing near the firewall on the passenger side. loosen the screw and turn or remove the door.
I think the firing order is also on the dizzy cover for each wire. #1 is the front cylinder, so they're numbered front to back. with 6 being at the firewall.
Dont' worry about the timing unless you can get someone to help you, that has a timing light. You'll need to disconnec the vacuum advancer vacuum hoses and plug them And loosen the bolt on the dizzy and turn it slightly to dial the timing in if it needs adjusting. Hold off on this until you check the carb fuel and spark and firing order.
That's fine, make sure the vehicle is in neutral and wheels chocked.
- Thread starter
- #97
Thanks G-Man for all that input.
FWIW - I did the "okie rebuild" with it first idling while I was doing other stuff then drove it through my neighborhood - probably a 1-1.5 miles in total with the choke all the way closed (knob pulled all the way out) and it ran fine. The last 1/4 mile on the way home I pushed the choke all the way in and parked - idled fine and drove fine after that the last little bit home. This was all I had time for but I will still pull the line to check fuel flow and also drain/clean the carb at the very least.
I think regardless of all other findings, my carb probably needs a proper cleaning if not a total rebuild, I have no info on whether it's been rebuilt previously or when that was but based on the condition of the fuel and the tank, I suspect it will benefit from some more TLC.
FWIW - I did the "okie rebuild" with it first idling while I was doing other stuff then drove it through my neighborhood - probably a 1-1.5 miles in total with the choke all the way closed (knob pulled all the way out) and it ran fine. The last 1/4 mile on the way home I pushed the choke all the way in and parked - idled fine and drove fine after that the last little bit home. This was all I had time for but I will still pull the line to check fuel flow and also drain/clean the carb at the very least.
I think regardless of all other findings, my carb probably needs a proper cleaning if not a total rebuild, I have no info on whether it's been rebuilt previously or when that was but based on the condition of the fuel and the tank, I suspect it will benefit from some more TLC.
- Thread starter
- #98
I did check this (thanks for this photo) and my fuel level looks right when parked and when idling.
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- #100
I have no idea what valve lash is or how to check it. Any tips on this?