Novice Needs Help! (1 Viewer)

FJ Noob

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Congrats on the 60 (we're all dying to see a pic of the actual truck BTW) and welcome to the world of keeping these things on the road! Reading though the whole post was like having a flashback. I think @NeverGiveUpYota, @Gretsch, @g-man, @Spike Strip, and a few others could all attest that I was going through all of the EXACT same issues a little over a year ago (thanks for all the help along the way). I think Yota gave you the best advice so far, in her response about the tailpipe discharge, yet it applies to all these old LCs...."Don’t make yourself crazy being hypersensitive about stuff...". It's a 34+ yr old vehicle that is lightyears behind what we'e used to driving now. Don't always assume the worst...I wasted a fair bit of $$$ doing that early on...start with the simple and free things first. It sounds like the fuel tank swap has helped you overcome the biggest hurdle; just keeping it running in order to be able to diagnose other things. Based on what I went through, here's what I would suggest based on the areas of concern you've mentioned:

1. Running warm/hot...what makes you think it's running warm? I ask b/c the owner manual shows the "normal operating temp" on the gauge to be anywhere from about a 1/4 up the gauge all the way to the left edge of the red line. It took me a while to just accept this. Long story short, I replaced my WP, t-stat, & hoses as a semi knee-jerk reaction to what I thought was a hot engine. I do not wish this job on you! Even after all that, it only lasted about 2 days and then I was "hot" again. The real problem was small leaks at hose connections that was 1) not keeping the system pressurized and 2) when warmed up, allowing air into the system that was then collecting at the temp sensor so it was sitting in a pocket of air and just reading the heat transferred directly from the metal.

Get yourself an IR temp gun if you don't have one and shoot temps from around the block when it's getting "hot". At least you can then see a temp and decided to be more paranoid or not. I still have a certain level of engine temp PTSD from going through that episode. Then go through and triple check that all the hose clamps are snug. The ends of my upper and lower hardlines on the PS of the engine were rusted through where the hose clamped...that's why I couldn't keep pressure. I was able to cut about an inch off and reconnect a slightly longer hose.

2. Exhaust leak: What specifically is making you think you have an exhaust leak? It was a periodic exhaust smell with the hood open, loud engine, and bad idle for me. Turns out it was the connection of the manifold downpipe and exhaust pipe. The garbage aftermarket gasket had burned up and the nuts had loosened at the connection. 1 OE all metal gasket and 3 tightened nuts later it was done.

3. Rough idle/couldn't get idle below 1000rpm: There is a small metal tube that is molded in the heat riser under the carb. My riser was cracked where the tube goes in. A little JB weld to seal it up confirmed it was the source of my issue and shored things up until I could get a new carb plate delivered.

4. Tailpipe discharge: Mine did the same thing for a bit after I worked through my carb and fuel issues. It just stopped eventually, but not before blasting my toolbox and storage shelves when I backed into the garage the first time it did it!

5. GET A COPY OF ALL THE FSM RELATED PUBLICATIONS!!! Last I looked, the resources "library" doesn't yet have all the stuff that was available previously. We'll figure out a way to get you copies...hell, I'll put it all on a thumb dive and mail it to you if you want.

It's not the most exciting to look at, but get the emissions manual and personally check all of your vacuum line routing and connections. I ended up finding an incorrect connection that solved a hesitation I was getting when accelerating from a stop.

6. A/C: What makes you think the compressor is bad? I thought my A/C was going too, but I ended up adjusting the tension on the belt and re-charging the system and it works great now. If it really is going out, check RockAuto. I was surprised at how many OEM parts they have on there and for very reasonable prices. I know they have all the A/C parts.
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
40
Location
NC
@FJ Noob -
Photos of the rig attached. Before and after the wrap. I have removed the wrap again and going to do a different color after I get the motor straight.

1. It ran hot (or seemed to) one day based on the gauge, starting to touch the break between white & orange, I think it hit the orange. I found just a few days ago (in this thread) that my heater core hose/connection is leaking so I think I was possibly slightly low on coolant - but the only reason I think it was getting hot is based on the gauge.

2. Exhaust leak - When I started it the other day (first time in a LONG time) there was tons of exhaust under the hood. I don't notice it anymore but you can hear it and smell it - just no visible cloud. Doesn't seem to be as bad once hot (so assuming a failing gasket). I have the gasket but haven't gotten around to that yet. Anyway to pinpoint which area may be leaking like you did?

3. I will check this out. Unfortunately today, it didn't make it off my street when I was trying to go to cars & coffee. THIS IS WHERE I NEED HELP from anyone and everyone - even with a new tank and new filter, once I give it gas, it stalls out. I put a video online HERE where you can hear it stall and die as soon as I push the pedal; also THIS VIDEO you can see the fuel running through the filter and when I push the "gas" on the linkage to the carb itself, it revs a couple times but then completely dies. I also attached a photo of the old filter which was literally packed FULL of sediment and completely blocking the fuel --> I am kind of hoping my running issue now is trash in the carb that got through the filter as that's probably my best case scenario for a "simple" fix.

4/5. Roger that.

6. I have just assumed BUT you make a good point, my alternator doesn't have the tensioning bolt on it so I can't properly tension the belts. Anyone know where I can get this bolt/fitting and by chance have a part number?

FJ60 before wrap.png


FJ60 wrapped.png


FJ60 Clogged Filter.jpg
 
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Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
40
Location
NC
There is a fuel tank recall for FJ60s. Check your vin with Toyota and see if the recall has been done. If not, the dealer will put in a new tank for you. Do a search - there were some recent threads on this subject.
Thanks - I did check and the recall was done in 1992 on mine. Age has still taken its toll so I replaced with a new OEM tank.
 
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Messages
40
Location
NC
If you still have the equalizer, you may need new bushings for it. They are available. I just replaced mine when I ordered the new parking brake cable. The upper and lower sections easily unbolt and the center part is integral to the parking brake cable.

(edit) if all the equalizer parts are there, maybe it just popped out of position. Remove or loosen the center bolt by loosening the nut at the bottom, See if you can place the center pin (on the parking brake cable) back into position.
Photo attached - I was mis-remembering from last year when I had to un-stick my parking brake. I have the equalizer but it's bent too wide/open. I could try to clamp it shut again but if I can just replace it, I will do that. Thanks for confirming.

FJ60 - Parking brake equalizer.jpg
 

g-man

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Joined
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Messages
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Charlottesville VA
Yes that top part is bent. Probably best to take the bolt and nut loose on the back of the part and remove it completely. Then put it in a vice and straighten. Once straight, put the piece back into position with the the parking brake cable pin sandwiched in between and then replace the bolt and nut on the back. The equalizer part# is 4634131010 but partsouq shows it not available.
 

FJ Noob

GOLD Star
Joined
Aug 22, 2019
Messages
820
Location
Fayetteville, NC
@FJ Noob -
Photos of the rig attached. Before and after the wrap. I have removed the wrap again and going to do a different color after I get the motor straight.

1. It ran hot (or seemed to) one day based on the gauge, starting to touch the break between white & orange, I think it hit the orange. I found just a few days ago (in this thread) that my heater core hose/connection is leaking so I think I was possibly slightly low on coolant - but the only reason I think it was getting hot is based on the gauge.

2. Exhaust leak - When I started it the other day (first time in a LONG time) there was tons of exhaust under the hood. I don't notice it anymore but you can hear it and smell it - just no visible cloud. Doesn't seem to be as bad once hot (so assuming a failing gasket). I have the gasket but haven't gotten around to that yet. Anyway to pinpoint which area may be leaking like you did?

3. I will check this out. Unfortunately today, it didn't make it off my street when I was trying to go to cars & coffee. THIS IS WHERE I NEED HELP from anyone and everyone - even with a new tank and new filter, once I give it gas, it stalls out. I put a video online HERE where you can hear it stall and die as soon as I push the pedal; also THIS VIDEO you can see the fuel running through the filter and when I push the "gas" on the linkage to the carb itself, it revs a couple times but then completely dies. I also attached a photo of the old filter which was literally packed FULL of sediment and completely blocking the fuel --> I am kind of hoping my running issue now is trash in the carb that got through the filter as that's probably my best case scenario for a "simple" fix.
4/5. Roger that.

6. I have just assumed BUT you make a good point, my alternator doesn't have the tensioning bolt on it so I can't properly tension the belts. Anyone know where I can get this bolt/fitting and by chance have a part number?

1. Get the IR gun and check the external temp on multiple locations of the block and on the t-stat housing (IIR correctly 210ish* and below is fine). Do this for your immediate peace of mind. Fix the leak. Top off with coolant. Fill overflow to full line. Burp the system. Burp the temp sender.

2. You can run it at idle and get your hand down around most parts to see if you can actually feel the leak puffing out around the major parts...just don't get burned. I have also taken my shop vac, switched it to blow, stuck the hose into the tailpipe on a cold engine and felt/listened for air coming out of the gaskets/connections. Not sure how wise this is, but I did it once fairly quickly...didn't experience any ill effects.

3. So you can idle, but giving it gas kills it? Mine did that too, except the first time was making a left-hand turn in a 4-way intersection. After a bunch of self-imposed drama, it turned out to be the plunger in the carb was too worn to seal properly...causing a disruption in the fuel flow when I pushed the accelerator. 10 min fix. Remove air cleaner, disconnect plunger lever, unscrew a few bolts to remove the top of the carb only, insert new plunger, reassemble.

6. @ToyotaMatt makes a tensioning bolt replacement for this exact situation (mine was missing too; getting creepy how similar our experiences are becoming)
 

FJ Noob

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Messages
820
Location
Fayetteville, NC
Yes that top part is bent. Probably best to take the bolt and nut loose on the back of the part and remove it completely. Then put it in a vice and straighten. Once straight, put the piece back into position with the the parking brake cable pin sandwiched in between and then replace the bolt and nut on the back. The equalizer part# is 4634131010 but partsouq shows it not available.

If that doesn't work, I MIGHT still have that bracket on my parts truck. LMK and I'll crawl under it to take a look if you need it.
 

g-man

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I'm hearing a squeal at start and a dry bearing sound. This could be a bearing in the alt, smog pump, p/s pump or elsewhere hopefully not internal to the engine. I assume you have good oil on the stick and good oil pressure.

You can loosen the lock bolt on the top of the alternator, tilt it toward the motor and pull the belt off. Run it at idle and see if the dry bearing sound goes away. This belt goes to the power steering pump, the alt. and of course the crank pulley at the bottom. The A/C belt is separate and is tensioned by loosening the compressor bolt at the bottom and moving the compressor again toward the motor. The smog pump tilts the same way but has a tensioner bolt and lock bolt. You can remove it also briefly and start the truck to see if the squeal and the dry bearing sound go away. Just don't let it warm up w/out the water pump/fan moving.

You also obviously have a shake possibly a miss when you rev up before stalling. This could be from lack of gas but also could be a timing issue or major vacuum leak. YOU SHOULD FIX THIS FIRST. Before exhaust, or parking brake cable.

Mattressking just posted this in his thread ...part # for the alternator tensioner .... Builds - 'Brightening' a Fj60 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brightening-a-fj60.985528/post-13567128
 
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NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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@IamGhost your in NC.... check the local clubhouse... not sure 100% but @roadstr6 is down that way or maybe can direct you. Seems to be you have a huge vacuum leak. Your second video is why I say that. It’s running so retarded and when you pull the throttle it bogs out. All those lines look really old. Not sure what your emission laws are where you are but maybe you could omit a bunch. My truck ran rough and was super redneck desmogged but it ran back in ‘16 when I brought her home. Now it’s at least desmogged appropriately and runs a thousand times better. I also def get more fuel in my filter while idling, at least another 1/4”. I can get a video later today if you want.
But really I think you need another set of eyes on that thing before going too far and just going on hunches. Have someone else come see, touch, listen and attempt to set the timing, check the valve adjustment and swap out the evap hoses one by one. Boostcontroller, was the place I bought mine, 6mm and 3mm is what you need.
Videos are good. Start a build thread that you can refer to more quickly. Add this thread to it.
Funny, I liked the before crazy paint job more than the white but I’m kinda weird like that anyhow. Uglier the better for me.
Keep up the steady work, you’ll get her there.
Felicity
 

lcolon

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East Bay, SF, CA
2. Exhaust leak - When I started it the other day (first time in a LONG time) there was tons of exhaust under the hood. I don't notice it anymore but you can hear it and smell it - just no visible cloud. Doesn't seem to be as bad once hot (so assuming a failing gasket). I have the gasket but haven't gotten around to that yet. Anyway to pinpoint which area may be leaking like you did?

Get a mechanics stethoscope or a small piece of tube you can hold up to your ear. Places to check for exhaust leaks under the hood:
1. Seal between the exhaust manifold and the main exhaust pipe
2. J-Pipe to exhaust manifold seal (under the heat shield tin)
3. J-Pipe to the cooler (front of engine under the egr) - this fitting which is a compression fitting will almost always leak something but should not be excessive
4. Exhaust manifold to block - stick your tube / probe between the manifold gaps and see if you can hear anything
5. Air rail seals along the top of the block and to the air pump fitting
 

g-man

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Click on "clubhouse" button at the top of the page, find the NC clubhouses and figure out which is closest. you could just post up in their thread, intro yourself and where you are and see if anyone is available around you.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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I tried searching this - is it just running it on a wide open choke to "flush" out any trash in the carb? That's what I found, not sure if it's what you intended for me to find...?
Yes but from what I recall if it won’t stall out like it should then it’s indicative of a huge leak. I could be wrong... I’ll inquire to someone incase I’m mixing up my logic. Yes that is correct per my memory. If it won’t stall then you have a huge leak.
 
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