Buy a Silver Star subscription ($20/year) and start posting photos. Will save everybody a lot of time and you'll get quicker, better answers. It will pay for itself 100x over.
(top tabs, under 'Store', click on Gold/Silver Star)
As for the A/C question, Reman Denso (OEM) are available and retrofit your system to R134a using appropriate compressor oil and dryer. A few threads on it.
Another quick update - I did a short test drive today, about 2 miles. Ran pretty well considering how long it's been sitting, but then it started to want to stall like before when it was getting no fuel, then ran okay, then ran great. Totally inconsistent. I got back and found an alarming amount of sediment in the brand new fuel filter.
This makes me think that MAYBE the sediment is interrupting fuel flow which is causing the inconsistent running. Either way - I definitely need to drain, clean and flush my tank to get all the junk out of there. Any advice on the best way to clean/flush the tank?
Any other thoughts on what might be causing the inconsistent running while driving? I am hoping to tackle as much as I can on this over the long weekend.
Attached photos of the sediment in the new filter for reference.
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Take a closer pic of both sides of the motor.
Personally if you had NO spacer, I think your cam would have fried the actuating arm on the pump already and it wouldn’t be running. I used an aftermarket pump the first time I replaced w/ the spacer and the cam snapped the arm off w/in a matter of a couple starts. Then I tried an elect pump abd I hated it. It was a total pita.
The last pump I installed was a Kyosan from cruiser outfit. Since then all has been good.
I also have a number of new hoses on order and will replace all of that along with vacuum lines (any suggestions on where to order vacuum line hose?).
I have a 3” OME lift installed and it seems like the sway bars cannot be installed with a lift. Is this right? I cannot figure out how to install them.
Post a picture where you think you have an exhaust leak. You should see black soot. It will help us guide you through that process to fix it.Hi All,
New to the forum and somewhat "new" to FJ ownership (I will explain). I need help from the experts here to get my rig all square.
"New" FJ explanation: Long story short - I bought a FJ60 years ago from a guy who had several FJs. I didn't know anything about FJs or mechanics in general and unfortunately he completely screwed me over, intentionally. He hid the fact that the FJ had been rolled over, had tons of mechanical issues, etc. I lived in a garage apartment at the time with no space to work on it (or knowledge of how to do so) so I sold it (and ended up always regretting it). Years later, I found a low mileage, 3 owner western desert rig and bought it and had it shipped across the country. Haven't had much time with work or a new baby to work on the rig but am starting to tackle it.
So here's where I need help:
1. Engine runs rough, when it runs - I can see it's got new distributor and wires, looks like maybe the PO threw some parts at it. While driving one day it started to idle rough - revving high and low then a few days later when driving it died. It would start and idle but stall out as soon as I tried to give it gas and drive. I was cutting through a neighborhood coming home so was able to idle the rest of the way back. As I started digging into this - I found that the FRAM inline fuel filter on the supply line to the fuel pump was dry - zero fuel flowing through it. I put some fuel directly into the carb through the vent tubes and it started immediately and ran until that fuel burned off. This confirmed my suspicion that the fuel pump was bad. I put fuel directly into the carb again but this time the FRAM filter started to have a small amount of fuel run through it. I went ahead and changed the pump because I thought that in-line filter should be FULL of gas. With the new pump on, I have the same result and same trickle through the FRAM filter. This FRAM filter is in-line AFTER the factory in-line filter. I'm waiting for delivery on a new OEM filter. After I replace this, I will remove the FRAM (I am hoping the OEM may just be original or old enough that it's clogged and is what is restricting the fuel flow - this would be best-case since it's a simple fix).
1A - should I replace the fuel pump or not? Given I have no improvement in fuel flow - I am inclined to put the old pump back on (looks like it was already replaced) because another factor is that the hard lines coming off the top of the fuel pump are not exactly in the same spot as previous pump and one of the lines hits the oil filter now.
1B - Fuel pump spacer - I cannot tell if my engine has a spacer or not - the pump I pulled off has a rubber gasket and what looks like another (very thin) rubber gasket on the block - NOT a spacer. But if I DO have a spacer and it's now compressed over time - I read that this can position the pump too far into the block - would this affect fuel flow? I have spacer on order also in case I need this or this is what's causing my low fuel flow
2 - Exhaust Leak - I have a MAJOR exhaust leak under the hood - I assume it's just the manifold gasket. Anyone have a link for a tutorial on the easiest way to change this - I looked last night in the dark and the hardest part looks like taking everything off that's above/around the exhaust manifold.
Rig is a 1985, 148K original miles, 3 owners on OME lift. Would also appreciate suggestions on new tires that will fit OEM wheels.
Thanks in advance!
it's all detailed there. You don't want to fry the dash gauge! The FSM is free here: For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/40-50-60-and-80-series-fsm-for-a-hell-of-a-price.610994/
Thanks for this - yes, my parking brake looks like this, what I was referring to is the equalizer - parts 46304 in the diagram. These hold the cable in position but on mine, the cable is NOT between the equalizers - I thought it was because of the lift and new geometry to the axle/wheels but I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue...?there are several videos on youtube by pin head. Search Aisan carb rebuild by pin head. But read the 81 2f engine fsm under the fuel section for step by step carb rebuild.
click on this link to jump to the Resources section: FSM - 2F Engine Repair FSM 1991 printing - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-repair-fsm-1991-printing.91/
click the download button on the right to get the pdf. Carb will be under the fuel section. section 6
The parking brake cable is pictured below along with the brackets that hold it. Does your look like this one? If the cable is froze in the sleeve ...new OEM parking brake cables are avail from Partsouq. I'd order any bushings you may need as well. Before you assume the cable is froze in the sleeve verify that your bell cranks are not seized.
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