Novice Needs Help! (1 Viewer)

lcolon

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There is a fuel tank recall for FJ60s. Check your vin with Toyota and see if the recall has been done. If not, the dealer will put in a new tank for you. Do a search - there were some recent threads on this subject.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Buy a Silver Star subscription ($20/year) and start posting photos. Will save everybody a lot of time and you'll get quicker, better answers. It will pay for itself 100x over.

(top tabs, under 'Store', click on Gold/Silver Star)

As for the A/C question, Reman Denso (OEM) are available and retrofit your system to R134a using appropriate compressor oil and dryer. A few threads on it.
Another quick update - I did a short test drive today, about 2 miles. Ran pretty well considering how long it's been sitting, but then it started to want to stall like before when it was getting no fuel, then ran okay, then ran great. Totally inconsistent. I got back and found an alarming amount of sediment in the brand new fuel filter.

This makes me think that MAYBE the sediment is interrupting fuel flow which is causing the inconsistent running. Either way - I definitely need to drain, clean and flush my tank to get all the junk out of there. Any advice on the best way to clean/flush the tank?

Any other thoughts on what might be causing the inconsistent running while driving? I am hoping to tackle as much as I can on this over the long weekend.

Attached photos of the sediment in the new filter for reference.

View attachment 2534289

View attachment 2534290
Take a closer pic of both sides of the motor.
Personally if you had NO spacer, I think your cam would have fried the actuating arm on the pump already and it wouldn’t be running. I used an aftermarket pump the first time I replaced w/ the spacer and the cam snapped the arm off w/in a matter of a couple starts. Then I tried an elect pump abd I hated it. It was a total pita.
The last pump I installed was a Kyosan from cruiser outfit. Since then all has been good.


i am in no way trying to make a joke here ......fyi

after be-boping around you tube trying to find a live action video to help you along .........

presto

my boy here seams to approach it well .

this is good above average tech i think

i would only ADD

make sure you install all NEW oem mounting bolts with your pump and spacer

use a oem spacer NOT the metal one he has

also , if NOT too late return the auto parts store pump made in Vietnam

either source at toyota dealer or a OEM KYOSAN brand one ..........

part # 23100-60070

or the kyosan brand oem jape one part # TP-605

this is a non-negotiable point here ,in my opinion that ghetto china pump will leave you stranded sooner or later ........fyi

also , source this exact spacer part # 90923-06010 , it has 2 gaskets vulcanized already on it , so Eazy Peezy install , stress free

your local toyota dealer can help with the spacer , 2 oem bolts 35mm long and the pump itself is not bad there either

good luck


if you are having trouble or dont have a dealer around you ?

send me a PM please


i will be happy holiday spirit to simply Mail you out a spacer , 2 bolts as shown below , NO cost involved .......... :cool:

And the instructions sheet too ...

No problem



763A1354-1217-4249-940A-C2D64DB56E2D.jpeg
9A553F6F-CEE1-4AB1-8B2F-9473A318AA9A.jpeg
9017C0EB-A4BD-4E7C-A396-09A8D50771EF.jpeg
E1CB1D36-C506-447B-9940-77F6CCA84D84.jpeg
 
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Quick update:

I dropped the tank today to flush it out. It has so much rust, scaling and rust sediment in it that it seemed like flushing the tank was only a short term solution. Some photos of all the debris are attached.

my local dealer was able to get a new tank next day and gave me a fair price that ended up being cheaper than buying online and shipping.

I’ll install the new tank tomorrow and run fresh gas through before I change the filter again.

This should help with at least getting it running consistently since I had a fuel delivery issue.

I also have a number of new hoses on order and will replace all of that along with vacuum lines (any suggestions on where to order vacuum line hose?).

I’ll proceed to run through the lists provided already.

I have a 3” OME lift installed and it seems like the sway bars cannot be installed with a lift. Is this right? I cannot figure out how to install them. Also the tubing and wire (steel cable) for the parking brake don’t fit into the “brackets” that hold them in position —> so my parking brake doesn’t work because the cable isn’t “locked” into the right positioning. Any input on this?

I will keep posting updates ASAP and hope to keep working on this until it’s all done (hoping to avoid another long stint sitting).
Other issues: power steering whines A LOT. Should I just flush and put new fluid in or should I rebuild/replace the pump?

photos of the trash in my fuel attached.

404DC634-760A-4221-8136-3DB40ACAB9E4.jpeg


B57A5A09-7203-4BA0-9E71-96A82B623F6D.png


7D13DBF6-4A45-4995-ACBC-1306FAD0DFCE.jpeg


A7D46774-0491-44DC-ABB2-6EEAAE387C5E.jpeg


2A7FCBD1-EACC-45AC-8F75-C0417C77C2F1.jpeg
 
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One more photo of the sediment. This is what’s clogging the filter and stopping the fuel flow.

I confirmed that the recall for the tank has been done, but was done in 1992 so my tank still has a lot of age and usage on it. But I don’t think I should have this much debris in the tank even if it’s 28 years old. Would you guys expect to see this much corrosion in the tank?

I also have a new clutch to install - any tips or specific tricks to make this easier?

3294E3E8-74F9-4CB0-9AC5-83690E6FE6A7.jpeg
 

Gretsch

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I also have a number of new hoses on order and will replace all of that along with vacuum lines (any suggestions on where to order vacuum line hose?).

Lots of guys (and gals) get vacuum hose at McMaster-Carr. You can buy it from Toyota but I think only in specific lengths.

I have a 3” OME lift installed and it seems like the sway bars cannot be installed with a lift. Is this right? I cannot figure out how to install them.

The factory end links are too short. I got extended end links for my OME lift. Call Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters to get them.

HTH.
 
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Hi All,

New to the forum and somewhat "new" to FJ ownership (I will explain). I need help from the experts here to get my rig all square.

"New" FJ explanation: Long story short - I bought a FJ60 years ago from a guy who had several FJs. I didn't know anything about FJs or mechanics in general and unfortunately he completely screwed me over, intentionally. He hid the fact that the FJ had been rolled over, had tons of mechanical issues, etc. I lived in a garage apartment at the time with no space to work on it (or knowledge of how to do so) so I sold it (and ended up always regretting it). Years later, I found a low mileage, 3 owner western desert rig and bought it and had it shipped across the country. Haven't had much time with work or a new baby to work on the rig but am starting to tackle it.

So here's where I need help:

1. Engine runs rough, when it runs - I can see it's got new distributor and wires, looks like maybe the PO threw some parts at it. While driving one day it started to idle rough - revving high and low then a few days later when driving it died. It would start and idle but stall out as soon as I tried to give it gas and drive. I was cutting through a neighborhood coming home so was able to idle the rest of the way back. As I started digging into this - I found that the FRAM inline fuel filter on the supply line to the fuel pump was dry - zero fuel flowing through it. I put some fuel directly into the carb through the vent tubes and it started immediately and ran until that fuel burned off. This confirmed my suspicion that the fuel pump was bad. I put fuel directly into the carb again but this time the FRAM filter started to have a small amount of fuel run through it. I went ahead and changed the pump because I thought that in-line filter should be FULL of gas. With the new pump on, I have the same result and same trickle through the FRAM filter. This FRAM filter is in-line AFTER the factory in-line filter. I'm waiting for delivery on a new OEM filter. After I replace this, I will remove the FRAM (I am hoping the OEM may just be original or old enough that it's clogged and is what is restricting the fuel flow - this would be best-case since it's a simple fix).

1A - should I replace the fuel pump or not? Given I have no improvement in fuel flow - I am inclined to put the old pump back on (looks like it was already replaced) because another factor is that the hard lines coming off the top of the fuel pump are not exactly in the same spot as previous pump and one of the lines hits the oil filter now.
1B - Fuel pump spacer - I cannot tell if my engine has a spacer or not - the pump I pulled off has a rubber gasket and what looks like another (very thin) rubber gasket on the block - NOT a spacer. But if I DO have a spacer and it's now compressed over time - I read that this can position the pump too far into the block - would this affect fuel flow? I have spacer on order also in case I need this or this is what's causing my low fuel flow

2 - Exhaust Leak - I have a MAJOR exhaust leak under the hood - I assume it's just the manifold gasket. Anyone have a link for a tutorial on the easiest way to change this - I looked last night in the dark and the hardest part looks like taking everything off that's above/around the exhaust manifold.

Rig is a 1985, 148K original miles, 3 owners on OME lift. Would also appreciate suggestions on new tires that will fit OEM wheels.

Thanks in advance!
Post a picture where you think you have an exhaust leak. You should see black soot. It will help us guide you through that process to fix it.
 
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Fuel sending unit photo attached - since sitting for months, the gauge has stopped working. Based on the condition of this sending unit, I am assuming the sending unit is the problem. How can I test the gauge easily? If I put 12 volts to the signal wire with the key on, the gauge will show full if it's working, right? This would confirm the wiring and gauge still work and then I can move on to testing the sending unit? I think there's a way to test the sending unit by measuring ohms or something like that - some kind of bench test with a multi-meter. Can anyone tell me what to do/how to do this?

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Gretsch

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NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Bummer to that tank! Wow! Full-o-nasty junk! Good call dropping it! Crossing my fingers on mine when I end up pulling it. Thanks for the great pictures!
 
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Hi All - Need some quick info (if possible).

I got my new tank today and want to move forward with installation. Should I NOT install my old fuel sending unit which is completely rusty - I did use a wire brush and cleaned it up quite a bit - I am mostly just worried about creating a rust issue in my new tank. Also - I need new screws for the fuel pick up and sending unit - anyone know the thread pitch on these screws? I'm heading to the hardware store first thing tomorrow to pick them up and get the new tank installed.

Thanks.
 
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Another update - got the new fuel tank installed today, I soaked my sending unit in vinegar to pull the rust off (super light coat of rust) and the sending unit is working again. I installed a new fuel pickup too which is nice because it has a filter on the intake and my old one did not. I finally have clean fuel running through. The engine definitely runs smoother but still not smooth - especially when driving vs. idling. My question is whether I should have more fuel than this (photo attached) in the filter - I expected this thing to be FULL of gas and it was after I initially put everything together but then after a test drive (ran pretty well/okay) I had what seemed like a very small amount of fuel in the filter. This photo was taking while idling in neutral on flat ground- I am thinking that maybe since it's a mechanical fuel pump and idles at 500 RPM, there's only a small amount of fuel since the pump is mechanical - and that means that when driving and running at a higher RPM, the pump is working harder and pulling more fuel. Can someone confirm? Now I am getting paranoid.

I found a carb rebuild kit in my box of parts that the PO gave me - can anyone point me to a thread with detailed photos of a carb rebuild? I think it's in the FSM but would like some high-res photos if available since I haven't had good luck working on carbs in the past.

I will keep posting updates as I make progress - definitely want to focus on the lists provided now and get this thing running right.

Photos attached show the fuel in the filter after I just installed everything - looks like the right amount of gas, a photo while idling in neutral (seems low) and a photo of what I think is oil (?!) out my exhaust (this was after I gave it a few high revs in neutral)

Any suggestions on these things?

Fuel Filter - low fuel.png


Exhaust Oil?.png


New filter, tank, lots of gas.png
 

g-man

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there are several videos on youtube by pin head. Search Aisan carb rebuild by pin head. But read the 1980 2f engine fsm under the fuel section for step by step carb rebuild.

click on this link to jump to the Resources section: FSM - 2F Engine Repair FSM 1991 printing - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-repair-fsm-1991-printing.91/

click the download button on the right to get the pdf. Carb will be under the fuel section. section 6

The parking brake cable is pictured below along with the brackets that hold it. Does your look like this one? If the cable is froze in the sleeve ...new OEM parking brake cables are avail from Partsouq. I'd order any bushings you may need as well. Before you assume the cable is froze in the sleeve verify that your bell cranks are not seized.


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there are several videos on youtube by pin head. Search Aisan carb rebuild by pin head. But read the 81 2f engine fsm under the fuel section for step by step carb rebuild.

click on this link to jump to the Resources section: FSM - 2F Engine Repair FSM 1991 printing - https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-repair-fsm-1991-printing.91/

click the download button on the right to get the pdf. Carb will be under the fuel section. section 6

The parking brake cable is pictured below along with the brackets that hold it. Does your look like this one? If the cable is froze in the sleeve ...new OEM parking brake cables are avail from Partsouq. I'd order any bushings you may need as well. Before you assume the cable is froze in the sleeve verify that your bell cranks are not seized.


View attachment 2541809
Thanks for this - yes, my parking brake looks like this, what I was referring to is the equalizer - parts 46304 in the diagram. These hold the cable in position but on mine, the cable is NOT between the equalizers - I thought it was because of the lift and new geometry to the axle/wheels but I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue...?

I will get a photo of this in the morning and post...

Thanks G-Man,
Ghost
 

g-man

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If you still have the equalizer, you may need new bushings for it. They are available. I just replaced mine when I ordered the new parking brake cable. The upper and lower sections easily unbolt and the center part is integral to the parking brake cable.

(edit) if all the equalizer parts are there, maybe it just popped out of position. Remove or loosen the center bolt by loosening the nut at the bottom, See if you can place the center pin (on the parking brake cable) back into position.
 
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I would not worry about the crud coming out the tailpipe unless it's liquid - there may just be some carbon deposits in the muffler that are finding their way out. Also, the low fuel level in the fuel filter shouldn't be a problem unless it's due to a clogged filter, which doesn't seem to be the case yet. Sometimes filters like that just don't appear to be anywhere near full, but are passing along the gasoline just fine.

Good job on cleaning up and getting the old fuel sender to work!
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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My fuel filter runs the exact same. I agree w/ Steve. Don’t make yourself crazy being hypersensitive about stuff coming out the tailpipe. Could be bits from the cat or could simply be moisture from the high rpms. Just get it running and drive it.
 
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seconding what's been said re: tail pipe discharge. as almost every single vehicle pushes some moisture out the tailpipe. i've noticed carb'ed n 1st gen/early fuelie systems tend to be darker as the fuel isn't metered as efficiently as later systems. mind you, this is only my theory
 

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