NEW knuckle alignment tool

[Mason1500]

Hi all,
I am attempting to design a new tool for aligning the knuckles. The goal is to make something that is a lot cheaper and is more fool proof. Here is a video running through the basic idea. I would love some feedback.

 

[roadstr6]

Hi all,
I am attempting to design a new tool for aligning the knuckles. The goal is to make something that is a lot cheaper and is more fool proof. Here is a video running through the basic idea. I would love some feedback.

I like it!

 

[peesalot]

Yup works. However, you stated in that demo there were no bottom shims, knuckle needs to come up according to your tool as shown so hows that gonna work ? I'd run it like that FWIW.

 

[rlong]

That’s cool! Makes sense. The process (you started with no shims on bottom) could vary, but the tool seems great and adequately reliable… now I needs 3D printer! (Son has one.. but I need one of every tool in my shop, two of some and infinite clamps!)

 

[Wheelytech]

Following. I’ll be doing this soon and new to birfields.
When you u get dialed will you share or sell your print file? Are they all the same for different models/ years?

Good work thinking outside the box.

Thx.

 

[Mason1500]

Following. I’ll be doing this soon and new to birfields.
When you u get dialed will you share or sell your print file? Are they all the same for different models/ years?

Good work thinking outside the box.

Thx.

I do plan to sell this in some capacity, but I need to validate it a bit. I am a bit worried about other people printing it because printer settings can impact the actual part size once they cool.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Cast a few of them in aluminum, machine them to proper size. Make a nice shipping box and rent them out. People pay rent and the security deposit up front (which is your sale price). If they don't sent it back un-damage in say 30 days - its now theirs and no refund.

Sand casting is easy and fun if you like doing that sort of thing. A small lathe (vevor $450) would do the job - could also machine your plastic ones.

 

[pbgbottle]

Looks good to me that was one of the weekness I felt of the SST was slop in the pieces ,the sst was sloppy it didn’t fit snug enough ,left room for error. Yours Should be dang close enough. Very cool.
The preload should still be pretty close after installing the correct height shims
The SST always gave me acceptable preload
Once you get the shim thickness to center it at the bottom ,measure the total gap at the top of knuckle snd arm and minus The shim thickness from the bottom which will give you the top shim thickness to use which should also then set your preload to spec. .
Total shim thickness is the gap at the top once you center knuckle minus shim thickness at bottom from total thickness will give you top shim thickness and correct preload as you set correct preload before starting centering of knuckle.
Nice. The more I look at this the more I like it , no guessing on top shims necessary as you know total shim thickens required to achieve correct preload already. Total minus bottom shims equals top shims. Done.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Yup works. However, you stated in that demo there were no bottom shims, knuckle needs to come up according to your tool as shown so hows that gonna work ? I'd run it like that FWIW.

You would need to put enough shims on the bottom to move the knuckle up to the center and then, via trial and error, put enough shims on top to get your preload correct. At least that's what I think you would need to do.

Nice thing about the Toyota SST is it gives you both top and bottom shims in one go. Yes it's a little complicated to use but if you closely follow the instructions it isn't that hard to use.

 

[peesalot]

Adding bottom shims would move knuckle the wrong way.

 

[Mason1500]

Adding bottom shims would move knuckle the wrong way.

It's a bit counterintuitive, but the tool shows I need to raise the center line of the spindle, which would mean adding spacers to the bottom.

 

[Malleus]

Hi all,
I am attempting to design a new tool for aligning the knuckles. The goal is to make something that is a lot cheaper and is more fool proof. Here is a video running through the basic idea. I would love some feedback.

This is a really good effort.

I have a couple of observations, not criticisms:

» You have started with an assumption that the knuckle was line bored. That may not be accurate, in fact, as a former design engineer, my assumption is that it wasn't. If I had designed this back in the far past (when I was designing, actually), I would have assumed that pressing the bushing into the axle would not have resulted in a perfectly round, centered hole. It would have been off and there's no way to know by how much. Given that, there was no need to line bore the two holes to be concentric, because they wouldn't be after the bushing was installed.
– Yes, I realize this is the way the SST is used, but it doesn't rely on the geometric relationship between the bushing and the outer bore, the way you are. The SST only uses the bushing to hold the pin, and it's not there to precisely locate it. As long as it doesn't move during the process, the process will work.
Line boring, when these were machined, was only used when it was actually needed, because it was an expensive setup, compared to moving parts from one dedicated machine operation to another. Today, this wouldn't be the case, because multi–axis machining centers have replaced lathes and mills in production shops. It's important to remember the past.
Having said that, the tolerance probably isn't that tight, considering the axle was designed to be set up by eye, so this is probably a moot point. I only bring it up for consideration.

» Locating on the outer bore will mean you have to have a tool for each and every knuckle, because of the manufacturing tolerances in the bore. An adjustable pin might be a better option, if you ever plan on selling this idea. Also, if this tool gets much use, it'll wear on the OD. For your use only, it's a moot point, because you know what your bores are.

» Finally, you're also assuming that the bushing in the tube isn't worn. That's a problem, for me, because I haven't seen any that aren't. Maybe it doesn't matter here, again, it probably won't for you, because you know, or can measure, what your dimensions are, and the process doesn't require 0.0001–inch precision.

You may have already considered all these points, so please take my observations as only that: observations. I think there's a lot of potential in this approach, please keep at it.

 

[peesalot]

Oh yeah, it takes a bit of visualization.

 

[VPP]

Hi all,
I am attempting to design a new tool for aligning the knuckles. The goal is to make something that is a lot cheaper and is more fool proof. Here is a video running through the basic idea. I would love some feedback.

I'm not familiar with the Toyota UJ, is it a cross and caps, Tracta, Bendix, or Rzeppa type joint?

 

[rlong]

This is a really good effort…

..the process doesn't require 0.0001–inch precision.

To summarize

 

[Pighead]

Looks good to me that was one of the weekness I felt of the SST was slop in the pieces ,the sst was sloppy it didn’t fit snug enough ,left room for error.

I borrowed an SST, I did not notice any slop, I was rather impressed with the fit and exactness of everything...perhaps my standards are low

 

[Malleus]

I'm not familiar with the Toyota UJ, is it a cross and caps, Tracta, Bendix, or Rzeppa type joint?

Rzeppa

 

[GA Architect]

From the FSM:
"A" = Toyota SST's distance top flange to bottom flange while installed on the ball with race & bearings then preload
"B" = Distance between top of hub and bottom of hub

Total shim thickness "C" is: "C" = "A" - "B"

"D" = Toyota SST's distance between axle ball scribe line & hub scribe line

Lower shim thickness "E" is: "E" = "D" - 3mm
Upper shim thickness "F" is: "F" = "C" - "E"

If you view this video, at the 8:00 mark it shows all the above calculations on his FJ40.

 

[Mason1500]

I appreciate all the feedback! A big part of why I am doing this is to get a cheaper (maybe better) tool out there. If it's plastic, I could probably sell it for less than $40 shipped. Stay posted, I will have an updated design to post in a day or two.

 

[pbgbottle]

I borrowed an SST, I did not notice any slop, I was rather impressed with the fit and exactness of everything...perhaps my standards are low

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Haha I don’t think your standards would be low. Haha. For me it was those shiny pieces and the scriber point. It wouldn’t stay in my axle tube was sloppy couldn’t get a decent scribe it would give me different scribe line every time I tried. I had to wrap a bit of electrical tape around the piece that slides into the tube to get a repeatabe measurement. And whey they are measuring in such small increments. I figured it would fit the housing better. Hmm. Tip would move wasn’t tight enough in the axle tube. I borrowed one from our local crusier club I’m sure it was well used. Haha. I figured I got it close enough though and went with the Marlin heavy duty inner axle seal no leak yet. . Not sure if I actually got it somewhat centre or the seal is doing all the work. lol.