Meet Moose, our 1969 FJ55 (2 Viewers)

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I was wondering about getting the clearance to get the trans out, but I guess it doesnt have to be high enough to get the trans under the frame since it really doesn't need to come out from under the truck just to replace the clutch.

Momma bought me a new trans jack a few years ago, so now I have a good reason to use it.

And @Gordobe thanks for the info. Gonna check that out tomorrow.

I’ve had to jack up the truck a bit more on one side to get the trans and case out while on the jack.

The key is getting it nice and stable on the jack and leaving it there!
 
Well this has escalated quickly.

Pulled rear driveshaft off of parking brake and it puced gear oil from behind the d-shaft flange, then go to unbolt tje rear shaft from the rear pinion and again, gear oil dumps out of that flange. I knew the rear main was leaking, but looks like ima need some more new seals too.

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So I get the front and rear shafts out amd start working on the case. Pulled the trans hump to get to the shifter to pull that.

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I got the linkage off for the h-n-l lever, but still got to get the vacuum lines for the 4wd and then figure out how to get the e-brake unhooked. From the looks of it I need to pull the drum off to get to the cable to disconnect it, then just the vacuum lines and I should be ready to drop the trans...

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So does that sound about right? Unbolt that big a$$ nut and pull the drum. And can I just unhook the vacuum lines, anything special I need to do there?
 
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That’s a common problem in the Tcase. The speedo housing separates from the case. I saw the @65swb45 said he has some double sealed housings in stock. The speedy sleeve does not work there.

Why are you pulling Tcase out?
 
That’s a common problem in the Tcase. The speedo housing separates from the case. I saw the @65swb45 said he has some double sealed housings in stock. The speedy sleeve does not work there.

Why are you pulling Tcase out?

Replacing clutch, need case loose to get trans out. Never pulled one in an older model, so this is a bit of a learning experience. Lots of misc stuff to get loose.

I also found what I think were the wirea to the reverse switch cut and hanging. Now just gotta find the other end so I can patch it back together.
 
I also think this was a 3 on the tree originally. The shifter plate doesnt look original to the case and the trans hump has been cut. You can tell from the marks and perfect circle for the shifter.

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Lol, welp clutch is out and I'd say it was due.

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Bad news is the flywheel looks like it is going to need surfacing too...

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Moose making it to SSS this year is looking bleak at this point :(
 
I'm gettin', I'm gettin'

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Off to trans shop tomorrow.
 
Our Napa part stores here in Colorado can usually regrind the flywheel and do a good job. The last time I had mine done they did it for free, they just wanted to know what it was out of because they have never seen one that big an heavy.
 
So when I go to put the flywheel back on, do I need to find more of those little tabs, use lock washers, or ?

Rear main is leaking and will be replaced while I'm in this far.
 
So when I go to put the flywheel back on, do I need to find more of those little tabs, use lock washers, or ?

Rear main is leaking and will be replaced while I'm in this far.
Just make sure the rear main is seated right and flush. Had to replace mine twice bc I screwed it up the first time, not fun.

I reused my flywheel bolts too...
 
What about the little metal tabs underneath? Mine had 3 little metal tabs behind the bolt heads and the corners were bent up to keep it from backing out, kinda like the tab on the spindle lock washer.

See them here under the bolts.
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Safer to use locking plates like your picture. Usually reusable.
 

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