Meet Moose, our 1969 FJ55

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Good news: Had the flywheel machined yesterday and she's shining like a new penny and ready to go back on.
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Bad news: got some late night meetings this week and need several seals to get everything back together (I'm not fighting that thing back out if I don't have to.), so it isn't likely to move under it's own power for a few weeks....

(waits patiently to be shouted at....)
 
Made a slew of calls today and after sending many doll hairs in several different directions, I think I finally have all the parts to complete the clutch job (as well as some that are needed elsewhere).

Boxes coming from the big three:

@65swb45
@cruiseroutfit
@Cruiser Corps
 
Finally unpacking some of my new-to-me parts tonight. (Headlight rings photobombed, they weren't part of the haul)

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Then going thru the glove box I pulled out the two drivers side trim cups for the door handles.

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Then realized I'm going to have to see if Mike or anyone else has either a rear DS door handle with the chrome trim or a pair of just black ones as the back door doesnt have a handle either and I forgot until I started looking things over.
 
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Then I started fiddling with the turn signal switch.

I decided to pull my old one apart to see how it all worked, and I ended up taking both apart.

I am going to scavenge the horn contact from mine since the little wheel is still intact.

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If I knew I could get these little rivets, I'd drill them out and swap them onto the good switch arm. The one on mine looks to be in better shape.

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What would you all suggest to clean up the housing? Want to clean it up good before I put it all back together.

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Also, how is the best way to clean up the little pin contacts for the turn signals?

Here are the two switches prior to dis-assembly, mine on thw bottom, replacement on top.

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The parts just look a little fresher. And, while I'm not sure it'd be worth it, the pins on my plug are plated and look better than the other one, so I may strip the tape and swap the hi/low wiring while I have it apart.

And here is the root of the problem.

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Somewhere in time the old switch lever was cut off and re-drilled. And in doing so the barrel where the spring and detent ball live has been removed, so even if I could fix the switch, I would have to find a new arm for it to work correctly. I am going to keep an eye out, but for now, I am going to take these 2 and make one switch to go back in the truck.
 
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J Mack said:
One part of vinegar with ten parts of water soak for about 30 minutes.
Click to expand...

The vinegar solution should be safe for the plastic housing, correct?
 
Cleaned, greased and back in with fresh tape.

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So new question, so the hi/low function works great, but the turn signals are now wonky. DS I think is because I dont have any bulbs in the rear, it just comea in and stays, gonna get new bulbs and see if that fixes it, but the PS is acting similar and I hear a sligt buzzing from under the dash, so what are the odds it os something in the turn signal relay? Can I replace that? Hopefully that is a part shared with the 40 series and is easier to come by.

Also, the auto turn-off function doesn't seem to work for a right turn. Works fine for left, but wont kick the arm back up from a right turn. Thoughta on that?

Thanks
 
Yeah I called Mike and he sent me the one I just put on. The switch seems to work fine. It is making contact and switching properly. It seems the issue may be between the switch and the lights. Wondering if I may need a new relay or something.

And no on the column shifter. Somebody changed it over to a floor ahift at some point. Top cover on the case looks newer, and the hole in the trans tunnel was a hole saw job. Clean, but it was cut after the fact.

And now I need to figure out what the boxes to the right of the fuse block are.

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I know I could get a new one for it, but I am going to need some additional circuits so I am thinking about putting in a BlueSea fuse block on the fender in place of the old style block.

The rogue yellow wire goes all the way back to the + battery terminal, so it is always hot. Need to figure that one out, looks like an add-on.
 
I had an on going problem with the column housing rotating to the left (the whole housing loosed up) and that made the blinker stop working. If you think that might have happened, check out my build with a fix. Sounds like like you have a wiring problem though.
 
Thanks, yeah the column switch seems good. Guessing I have some wire chasing to do.

Does anyone have a FSM with an EWD for these beasts? Need to do some research.

Also, I pulled the covers off the boxes by the fuse block.

The one closest looks to be a relay. I kind of think it is the hi/low switch. It looks like it cycles from one side to the other when the magnet is powered. Otherwise it is closed against the little bar just to the left of the closed contact point.

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This thing is some kind of voltage regulator, said so right on the bottom of the cover.

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Then there is thus thing, I have no idea what it is, but it looks like I could plug 120v accessories in under the hood. Anybody got any thoughts?

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Thanks
 
Dang, a month later and I'm still slacking. Got a new e-brake cable ordered using the e-bay 15% off coupon today.

New years day, I believe I am going to have to see about getting the transmission back in the pig. Time to get this piggy back up and rolling.
 
I know, I'm a slacker. But momma's truck does have some shiny new bobbles on it that have taken most of my free weekends recently. Not a good excuse, but at least I havent been doing nothing.
 
jynx said:
I know, I'm a slacker. But momma's truck does have some shiny new bobbles on it that have taken most of my free weekends recently. Not a good excuse, but at least I havent been doing nothing.
Click to expand...

We all like boobies.

Buy her that other Pig @Voodoocruisers has. She wants that for her......
 
She did say something about it to me a few days ago. I mean boobies talk...
 
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