He is sad cause he is having to talk to you again about damned shocks! LOL as this belly gets bigger your crusier wallet will get smaller. keep on web wheelin..
Meet "Fat Amy" my Amazon Green 200 Series
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He is sad cause he is having to talk to you again about damned shocks! LOL as this belly gets bigger your crusier wallet will get smaller. keep on web wheelin..
Bomar
SILVER Star
TRUTH.....
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #263
Word.
I called LT today at Metal Tech (he sounded less sad today), and placed an order for the Foam Cell Pros with the C-rate springs on the front (for a bullbar). It should be here some time late next month. Cost was approximately $1400 shipped. I am looking forward to them.
I will probably buy the TJM T13 bullbar next month, and may too source it from Metal Tech, as they are now importers for TJM products.
Why the TJM bullbar over the ARB? The ARB protrudes too far forward and the TJM sits closer to the grille. The conventional mounting method of attaching a bullbar on a 200 requires you to destroy your factory bumper, cutting 80% of it off. The TJM solves this problem by providing you with their own proprietary bumper piece. You can remove your factory bumper, install the TJM plastic trim, and then attach the bullbar.
Notice the piece of black plastic trim just above the bullbar:
The plan will be to install a winch (obviously) and then I'd like a pair of Lighforce HID driving lights with Amber or Yellow covers. They look bad ass.
I called LT today at Metal Tech (he sounded less sad today), and placed an order for the Foam Cell Pros with the C-rate springs on the front (for a bullbar). It should be here some time late next month. Cost was approximately $1400 shipped. I am looking forward to them.
I will probably buy the TJM T13 bullbar next month, and may too source it from Metal Tech, as they are now importers for TJM products.
Why the TJM bullbar over the ARB? The ARB protrudes too far forward and the TJM sits closer to the grille. The conventional mounting method of attaching a bullbar on a 200 requires you to destroy your factory bumper, cutting 80% of it off. The TJM solves this problem by providing you with their own proprietary bumper piece. You can remove your factory bumper, install the TJM plastic trim, and then attach the bullbar.
Notice the piece of black plastic trim just above the bullbar:
The plan will be to install a winch (obviously) and then I'd like a pair of Lighforce HID driving lights with Amber or Yellow covers. They look bad ass.
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Word.
I called LT today at Metal Tech (he sounded less sad today), and placed an order for the Foam Cell Pros with the C-rate springs on the front (for a bullbar). It should be here some time late next month. Cost was approximately $1400 shipped. I am looking forward to them.
I will probably buy the TJM T13 bullbar next month, and may too source it from Metal Tech, as they are now importers for TJM products.
Why the TJM bullbar over the ARB? The ARB protrudes too far forward and the TJM sits closer to the grille. The conventional mounting method of attaching a bullbar on a 200 requires you to destroy your factory bumper, cutting 80% of it off. The TJM solves this problem by providing you with their own proprietary bumper piece. You can remove your factory bumper, install the TJM plastic trim, and then attach the bullbar.
Notice the piece of black plastic trim just above the bullbar:
The plan will be to install a winch (obviously) and then I'd like a pair of Lighforce HID driving lights with Amber or Yellow covers. They look bad ass.
All that said, you are wearing plaid....pleats and braces in that picture Chris posted.
I mean....that's so bitchin I can hardly stand it.
I bet you wore red ole miss pants with little helmets in them when in Oxford.
I thought all you Ole Miss guys wore red pants with little helmets on them...?
I love beaversNo little red hats, but I did have red pants, and I had green pants with beavers on them.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Bomar
SILVER Star
This thread got good quickly.
Bodean
Hot Damn
Did somebody say beaver?
you put them on mine and it was the best decision. road great on the road, with a beach vacation load in back, and flexed well on the few deer camp trails I put it on.
I'd go IM over any other option.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #277
So I have been researching 35" tires for a 200 series, and gave Slee a call this afternoon, just to verify what is required to fit them. Slee told me this:
1. Wheels with the correct offset are a must. Slee recommends the 17" TRD Rock Warriors.
2. Tire brand is important. Slee said that they have had best results with Nittos. WCT, can you comment on why this may be?
3. Bump stops must be installed. They are $200 a set on Slee's site.
4. The KDSS arm gets in the way when turning, so it must be pushed slightly forward. Slee also sells a bracket that accomplishes this for $65.
5. A lift is obviously a must. I just purchased an IronMan Foam Cell Pro kit.
6. With a lift, and diff drop is suggested. I have also already purchased one.
7. With a lift, adjustable upper control arms are required to regain factory camber. Again, I have already ordered a set.
So tires, wheels, bump stops, and a bracket set will need to be purchased.
I have been planning on buying a bullbar, and granted I can sell my current set of 295/65/R18 on Tundra Wheels (which should be very easy), I think I can spend about the same amount of cash, if not less, by adding bigger tires. I like the Trail Grapplers, but I would much rather have the new K02s (once the 35x17s are released in March), because of their claimed tread life, and sidewall thickness.
I will think on it a while. This is all considering not bothering with regearing to 3.88s at this time. In the mean time, I am looking out for a set of TRD Rock Warrior Wheels. IM me if you find any near Jackson, Atlanta, Birmingham, or Memphis, as I travel to these cities monthly.
1. Wheels with the correct offset are a must. Slee recommends the 17" TRD Rock Warriors.
2. Tire brand is important. Slee said that they have had best results with Nittos. WCT, can you comment on why this may be?
3. Bump stops must be installed. They are $200 a set on Slee's site.
4. The KDSS arm gets in the way when turning, so it must be pushed slightly forward. Slee also sells a bracket that accomplishes this for $65.
5. A lift is obviously a must. I just purchased an IronMan Foam Cell Pro kit.
6. With a lift, and diff drop is suggested. I have also already purchased one.
7. With a lift, adjustable upper control arms are required to regain factory camber. Again, I have already ordered a set.
So tires, wheels, bump stops, and a bracket set will need to be purchased.
I have been planning on buying a bullbar, and granted I can sell my current set of 295/65/R18 on Tundra Wheels (which should be very easy), I think I can spend about the same amount of cash, if not less, by adding bigger tires. I like the Trail Grapplers, but I would much rather have the new K02s (once the 35x17s are released in March), because of their claimed tread life, and sidewall thickness.
I will think on it a while. This is all considering not bothering with regearing to 3.88s at this time. In the mean time, I am looking out for a set of TRD Rock Warrior Wheels. IM me if you find any near Jackson, Atlanta, Birmingham, or Memphis, as I travel to these cities monthly.
Bomar
SILVER Star
Nitto and Toyos have the right sizes that you are looking for tall and narrow. Rare these days due to domestic tire sales (volume) are WIDE.
285.75.17 is my guess at what they are running and calling a 35. Did he tell you what size they are running? In the picture it is on Nitto Trail Grapplers.
Nitto is a division of Toyo.
285.75.17 is my guess at what they are running and calling a 35. Did he tell you what size they are running? In the picture it is on Nitto Trail Grapplers.
Nitto is a division of Toyo.
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I learned something today.....good to know.
