I just read through your entire thread, impressive work. Some of the things you did I need to do as well. Thank you for posting and good luck.
Let's baseline my grandma's neglected, (20 year old to us) 1997 LX450
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- #302
Updates for June:
I got the 2 motor mounts and transmission mounts replaced. I had a mechanic friend help for the two side motor mounts. Note: the bolt on the picture isn't torqued to spec yet because we still had to bring down the engine.
Updates for July:
Now that the temperatures are climbing back up for summer season, I decided it's finally time to repair the A/C. I'm following this thread by @jpoole and going with the full refresh. Other than the evap core and drier, the rest of the components I am gettting off RockAuto are Denso. If I went with my usual dealer, the bill would cost higher than the $1000 mark.
I found a shop near me that has a lot of old landcruisers (from FJ40 to FZJ100) parked on their lot. Is that a good sign or bad?
I got the 2 motor mounts and transmission mounts replaced. I had a mechanic friend help for the two side motor mounts. Note: the bolt on the picture isn't torqued to spec yet because we still had to bring down the engine.
Updates for July:
Now that the temperatures are climbing back up for summer season, I decided it's finally time to repair the A/C. I'm following this thread by @jpoole and going with the full refresh. Other than the evap core and drier, the rest of the components I am gettting off RockAuto are Denso. If I went with my usual dealer, the bill would cost higher than the $1000 mark.
I found a shop near me that has a lot of old landcruisers (from FJ40 to FZJ100) parked on their lot. Is that a good sign or bad?
Good stuff!
My LC shop is just that...nothing but Land Cruisers. 40/55/60/62/80 and even some 70/75's and a few FJCruisers.
It just means that they know what they are doing and Cruiser owners trust them
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- #304
Coming right up is the A/C refresh.
Here are the parts as of today:
Denso Compressor
Denso Condenser
Denso Expansion Valve
UAC Evaporator
UAC Drier
4Seasons A/C Oil
4Seasons Seals/Gaskets
Toyota V-Belt
Tube Assembly connecting expansion valve to the hard lines going out to the firewall
Here are the parts as of today:
Denso Compressor
Denso Condenser
Denso Expansion Valve
UAC Evaporator
UAC Drier
4Seasons A/C Oil
4Seasons Seals/Gaskets
Toyota V-Belt
Tube Assembly connecting expansion valve to the hard lines going out to the firewall
Last edited:
Just noticed you on the FB group also 
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- #306
Just want to share a small win today while I finish up the rest of the AC components. The new wiring harness for the compressor and oil pressure sender arrived today and was excited to see if that would resolve the decade long issue I had without a functioning oil pressure gauge on the dash.
It's finally working! After over a decade of sitting on Low/zero mark.
I also have replaced all the splice connectors on my custom stereo wiring harness with a proper soldered connections.
At night, I'll be working on replacing the plastic seat gears and cap with the metal cap guard installed for my passenger seat.
I've been documenting my AC rebuild on video so I can post it on Youtube when I'm done.
It's finally working! After over a decade of sitting on Low/zero mark.
I also have replaced all the splice connectors on my custom stereo wiring harness with a proper soldered connections.
At night, I'll be working on replacing the plastic seat gears and cap with the metal cap guard installed for my passenger seat.
I've been documenting my AC rebuild on video so I can post it on Youtube when I'm done.
Nice where did you get that a/c oil harness from??? Looks pricey,, Id love to just get the connectors and pins.
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- #308
it was! but my local lexus dealership has more discoint than the others. even mcgeorge toyota was pricier. I got it for 60$
1997 Lexus LX 450 Wire, oil pressure switch. Door, floor, cable - 8222160020 | Rallye Lexus, Glen Cove NY
Wire, oil pressure switch. Door, floor, cable. 1997 Lexus LX 450. Genuine Lexus Part - 8222160020 (82221-60020). Ships from Rallye Lexus, Glen Cove NY
parts.rallyelexus.com
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- #309
Just posting an update on the evap core relacement: Look out for the rusted hex bolts connecting the expansion valve. If yours are as bad as mine were, you may round out the hex bolt head. I tried to extract it out but I broke the drill bit halfway into drilling down. I could weld something onto it so I can just wrench it out, but I don't have that equipment.
I just ended up buying a new tube assembly and so the rest of the evap core, expansion valve and tube inside the cabin will be new. It's $20 from my local Lexus dealer. Here it is: 8871060480 - Lexus Tube assembly, air conditioner. Conditioning | Rallye Lexus, Glen Cove NY - https://parts.rallyelexus.com/p/63527295/8871060480.html
I just ended up buying a new tube assembly and so the rest of the evap core, expansion valve and tube inside the cabin will be new. It's $20 from my local Lexus dealer. Here it is: 8871060480 - Lexus Tube assembly, air conditioner. Conditioning | Rallye Lexus, Glen Cove NY - https://parts.rallyelexus.com/p/63527295/8871060480.html
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- #310
UPDATE:
Last week I finally buttoned up all the new AC components and brought it back to the shop for a recharge. The mechanic who worked on the truck called and told me that the system wasn't holding vacuum at all. I informed him that I told the guy I brought it to that I left the connections very loosely because the lines still have to be flushed. Unfortunately, flushing the lines doesn't come with the price for the AC service so I had to put down another hour labor on top of the initial cost.
Anyway, I picked up the truck by the end of the day and wow the cabin is already pretty cool in a matter of minutes. I finally feel the cold wind blowing on my crotch.
I'm compiling a video of me replacing the components if anyone is interested in seeing what's involved in the process.
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Second update: I took out the passenger seat because it needed a new pair of plastic gears for the seat motor. I've been driving the truck without a passenger seat because I was holding off on replacing the gears. Welp, today I finally got the new ones on.
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Up next is replacing the bushing on the front sway bars. I still have left the rear sway bars disconnected. To avoid breaking the bolt heads on the front sway bars, I'll torch it, spray liquid wrench, hammer the rust loose then use an impact wrench at a low setting to loosen it. Does that sound good?
Last week I finally buttoned up all the new AC components and brought it back to the shop for a recharge. The mechanic who worked on the truck called and told me that the system wasn't holding vacuum at all. I informed him that I told the guy I brought it to that I left the connections very loosely because the lines still have to be flushed. Unfortunately, flushing the lines doesn't come with the price for the AC service so I had to put down another hour labor on top of the initial cost.
Anyway, I picked up the truck by the end of the day and wow the cabin is already pretty cool in a matter of minutes. I finally feel the cold wind blowing on my crotch.
I'm compiling a video of me replacing the components if anyone is interested in seeing what's involved in the process.
---
Second update: I took out the passenger seat because it needed a new pair of plastic gears for the seat motor. I've been driving the truck without a passenger seat because I was holding off on replacing the gears. Welp, today I finally got the new ones on.
---
Up next is replacing the bushing on the front sway bars. I still have left the rear sway bars disconnected. To avoid breaking the bolt heads on the front sway bars, I'll torch it, spray liquid wrench, hammer the rust loose then use an impact wrench at a low setting to loosen it. Does that sound good?
The video of you putting the components together would be very helpful. My system is probably all original (1990) and still works but on a 90+F day with high humidity…..my loin parts are moist. 
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- #312
The video of you putting the components together would be very helpful. My system is probably all original (1990) and still works but on a 90+F day with high humidity…..my loin parts are moist.
Here it is!
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- #313
I got a new set of tires installed. I also got a fifth one as spare that I plan to rotate in. I didn't go for the 33 inch because Grandma already has a hard time getting up onto truck. She's not as strong as she was 23 years ago when she bought it.
I went with the Yokohama Geolandar G015 because it's primarily a mallcrawler. I do plan to take this mild off road.
With the fuel tank fixed, engine running smooth, AC and heat running at the proper temperatures, I think it's time to take her back on the road for longer road trips instead of short errand runs.
I'll be posting smaller updates/fixes for the rest of the year but hopefully she spends more time on the road than on the driveway.
Baselining the suspension is still a work in progress but they're more as preventive maintenance.
I went with the Yokohama Geolandar G015 because it's primarily a mallcrawler. I do plan to take this mild off road.
With the fuel tank fixed, engine running smooth, AC and heat running at the proper temperatures, I think it's time to take her back on the road for longer road trips instead of short errand runs.
I'll be posting smaller updates/fixes for the rest of the year but hopefully she spends more time on the road than on the driveway.
Baselining the suspension is still a work in progress but they're more as preventive maintenance.
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- #314
My rear swaybars are still disconnected. I've been procrastinating on drilling out that stuck extractor bit. I'm starting to wonder if I should just leave that in and just go with LandCruiser Phil's heavy duty sway bar links instead. Has anyone tried that kit?
Anyway, I will be replacing all 4 u-joints on the propeller shaft. I found that the u-joint at the transfer case is the one that has been clunking when I shift between D and R. I went with MOOG instead of OEM. But I bought a new set of hardware from the dealer.
I just bought some recovery gear that's required to bring with me to the outer beach access. It's going to be the first time it goes offroad in 26 years of its life.
Anyway, I will be replacing all 4 u-joints on the propeller shaft. I found that the u-joint at the transfer case is the one that has been clunking when I shift between D and R. I went with MOOG instead of OEM. But I bought a new set of hardware from the dealer.
I just bought some recovery gear that's required to bring with me to the outer beach access. It's going to be the first time it goes offroad in 26 years of its life.
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- #315
It's been taking me a while to finish because of rookie mistakes and the lack of proper equipment. I should buy a workbench and vise to make life easier.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
When I did that job, I broke my vise….but the bench was helpful. Looks like you did ok— I found doing that job was super messy, and I fought the clamp style press to no end. It likes to slide off.
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- #317
Well I got them all back on and ready to go. It's been raining today so I'll have to wait until tomorrow. I had a few issues getting the last two caps off and I noticed that the surface inside the ear holes had a few nicks. I used a dremel to smooth out those little nicks and the new caps went in with not too much of a fuss when I hammered them into the new u joints.
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- #318
OK I replaced the front propeller shaft U joints. I can still hear clunks when shifting from Reverse to Drive, but not the other way around. Is this normal sound?
Motor/trans mounts?
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- #320
I replaced all 3 mounts last month thinking that would resolve the issue, but nope. So I tried this one. I hear the clunk towards the front differential.
