learning to wrench: an impulse purchase

[CruiserTrash]

yeah those ones, think ill go see if i can get a decent articulating wrench at harbor freight tomorrow, and ill pick up a couple extras to keep in the rig. I did just pull the whole air cleaner bottom off as well (probably will do valve cover gasket and check those this weekend).
Are folks replacing this bit that goes into the elbow toward the engine? if so what to replace with. I dont even know what to search for to find this. Also, found a mouse nest in it.


ordering vac hoses tonight - research says 3mm and 5.5mm, think theres any difference in where i order from? It looks like specter offroad (holy crap i cant believe they own that domain name) and HPS performance have both been mentioned before (hps has 3.5mm - ive heard that they are good too). Does it matter?

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Like @AussieHJ6X says, it's not a critical component. If you read the Emissions Manual (click the Resources tab at the top the Mud web page to find all the manuals), it'll show you that it helps the carb draw in warm air (from next to the exhaust manifold) on start up to help the engine warm up faster. In my experience the vacuum system to run that is always broken and there's no direct replacement. The round thing on top of the air cleaner lid directly above that hose is part of it and it's probably worthwhile to disconnect the vacuum hose going to it for now, as it's probably drawing hot air 100% of the time.

The Toyota OEM vac hoses are my favorite, the fit is perfect. I've also used Belmetric for metric hoses too, and they're fine.

 

[archatom]

found some headlights i had in storage from @CruiserTrash - cool setup. Guess i had a couple different headlights installed (adding to my storage pile). Got the carb off with some wrenches i found at harbor freight - also got a torque wrench for later projects.

I dont know how im going to get this carb back together. I did find the manual and printed off the relevant pages, wife even added them to a 3 ring binder

i think tomorrow im going to pick up a 6L parts cleaner from harbor freight too, hopefully i can get some grime off these parts, brass brush and carb cleaner worked but only for the places i could reach with the brush. Might video the whole disassembly so i know how to reassemble, honestly you guys have a special set of skills who can get this thing back together.

sunday i think ill try and get the new rad in and check out the valves. would be nice to get that valve cover cleaned up too - though i dont think ill paint it like some have.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

We lost a great with Marlin! However he has a gift that keeps on giving. Please watch this video. It will help with your carb rebuild.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

@pinhead also has a great series on YT on carb rebuilding. I think it is a 6 part series. Part 1 link is below

 

[John McVicker]

Have not watched the Marlin videos of carb rebuilds, but I certainly have watched the @pin head ones and they are great, very helpful and to the point.

 

[archatom]

Thanks guys! I was looking out there for some. will check out in the AM.

 

[archatom]

carb rebuld videos were for different carbs, im just winging it taking pictures & videos. got the carb out and a mostly in bits. I did make a mistake by putting the parts in plastic baggies and labeling them - then putting them in the parts cleaner. no more labels.
also needed some real work on getting a couple bolts out. I got them out in mostly good shape, but is there a place anyone recommends for buying replacement bolts for carb?

 

[CruiserTrash]

carb rebuld videos were for different carbs, im just winging it taking pictures & videos. got the carb out and a mostly in bits. I did make a mistake by putting the parts in plastic baggies and labeling them - then putting them in the parts cleaner. no more labels.
also needed some real work on getting a couple bolts out. I got them out in mostly good shape, but is there a place anyone recommends for buying replacement bolts for carb?

City Racer has replacement screws for the carbs. 100% an JIS screwdriver is the ticket for removing those screws without damaging them, they are NOT phillips head. Also buy their accelerator pump plunger, it has a good leather seal. For bolts, try Belmetric if you can ascertain the diameter, length, and thread pitch.

Follow the FSM for the rebuild - it's all right there. The videos are good, but you're correct that they're for different carbs. They do give the general scope though, so they're still valuable.

 

[AussieHJ6X]

100% an JIS screwdriver is the ticket for removing those screws without damaging them, they are NOT phillips head.

A Vessel JIS screwdriver set is mandatory if you're doing any work on Japanese cars

 

[Pighead]

but is there a place anyone recommends for buying replacement bolts for carb?

There are a couple I can think of right off...
1) One of the carb gurus has recently suggested buying one of the $89 Chinese knock-offs and scavenging bits & pieces off of it.
B) Some carb gurus probably have what you need in stock, but also may have a minimum order policy and might be difficult to reach on the first try. But they can make all your dreams come true. Why they're called gurus.
III) There are quite a few mere mortals here on 'Mud who have extra parts. Maybe a whole spare carb, maybe just 1/2 of a spare carb. Maybe just a Tupperware of extra carb parts. Every time I rebuild my carb I end up with extra parts.
You could probably get away with posting pics here of what fasteners you need and where they go and what they do, this being your thread after all.
Legally, I should tell you to post it in classifieds though.

 

[archatom]

Fair enough! I was able to get everything reassembled - but not back in the truck yet. Wasnt a perfect extract and repair job, and i did damage the body a bit. Didnt even get to the radiator, I wildly underestimated how much time that would take. Most times I was able to take a break and figure out which pieces need to get out where etc.

vacuum hoses are going to take a bit to get here. might order the headunit and try and get that going - I think having more than a couple things going on in the engine bay at a time is going to be a problem - but i think id like to try and rebuild the alternator too at some point.

found a couple issues - ac/heat controls, seems like the cables are all pretty tight. im guessing thats going to be a can of worms to get into as well.

I took off the chrome trim on the rain gutters, noticed some crap getting stuck under there - and I really only had half anyway.

not much of an update, but progress anyways.

 

[archatom]

cleaning up the roof, its been like this since i got it. good thing i started this - few spots were getting down to bare metal. luckily i have a can of spray paint to just touch those spots up before they become an issue. Took apart dash to get at hvac stuff, those levers are a bit stiff and i wanted to make sure there wasnt mice in anything either.

after removing the chrome on the gutters i really like the look without! might pick up another grill and try painting one black - or ill just try with mine. I do have some experience with autobody paint so im not too worried about that. Trying to hold off on aesthetics while I get her running alright - but im getting impatient waiting for those vac hoses to come in (should be about a week from now).

Im also trying to get the spare tire down without cutting the chain - but dang thats a tough one - I doubt the sucker has ever been dropped before. But I want to drain and check the tank out after i just rebuilt the carb. Also have a new fuel pump on the way to prep for the trip. Might need some advice on checking whether or not the one I have currently installed is still good (will keep as a spare).

ill blow the lines out, and make a decision on what to do if the tank is rusted. That should take care of fuel. Compression test coming soon as well, and maybe valve adjustment. gotta wait on those vac lines to come in though. After the carb rebuild i dont recall there being any gasoline in the carb when i removed it. Not sure if there should have been or not.

Then on to brakes and rebuilding all of that.

Another thing im considering is trans to tcase bypass - havent heard back from shipmag so that might be something i need to setup myself. man-a-fre and others look like they are out of stock as well.

Lastly, I found a great deal on fb marketplace for spare seats and some other odds and ends (door, ac equip, etc). think thats worth picking up if im planning to replace the seats with something like corbeau?

 

[AussieHJ6X]

Oooft that’s a mouldy roof. Better than a rusty roof, I guess

 

[archatom]

Oooft that’s a mouldy roof. Better than a rusty roof, I guess

i actually think its sap! really tough to get off, took me an hour to get that much off!

 

[bhsdriller]

If you don't want to wait you can get oem vacuum lines from the dealer probably same day if not next

 

[archatom]

update today. carpet and headliner ordered. fuel pump (just in case), couple wiper arms i was missing, and all the stuff for the front knuckle rebuilds (btw dang i really wanted to just buy new calipers but $550 is pricey). luckily i got that parts cleaner. The list of upgrades is getting longer!!

I need a longer todo list somewhere lol. im debating picking up the lift kit as well. Probably overkill for my situation but i was looking at the 2" dobinsons with ims. I could definitely get away with less, but the rebuildability is nice, and I will be driving a lot of fireroads and trails. unsure what to do there - same with wheels and tires, there are just so many options. For wheels, one of mine has like 4 giant weights on it currently - almost sure that it isnt balanced correctly. maybe just a crappy tire - would be a big savings to not need to buy new wheels though.

ive heard mixed reviews from bf goodrich k03's - so considering toyo at3 or the like.

pulled a wasp nest out of one of the vents on the body - that was fun. still diagnosing the stuck hvac cables, I did shake one of them loose - but its stiff. may just take that whole lower dash out so i can pull the insulation material from the firewall. looks like 3m sm400l / sm600l will work for that spot too and already planning on that for the headliner.

plenty to do. this weekend I should be able to pull the tank off and check for rust and whatnot. spare tire is stuck stuck in there. I'll try getting the bolts off for the tire carrier cross member but might just need to cut the chain.

also snapped my first bolt getting the battery tray out hopefully that wasnt foreshadowing... Oh and I found 2 hidden keys!!

anyway pretty lame update but there it is.

 

[DrRock]

I found that the new calipers from @cruiseroutfit are actually quite reasonable once you factor in they include the pads and hardware. I would strongly recommend NOT going with any remanufactured components on something safety critical like calipers/pistons and master cylinders. I had to replace a rear piston some year’s back and went with a NAPA remanufactured one since it was available on short notice. This piston had a catastrophic failure in 9 months and blew its seal leaving my rear drum and shoes filled with brake fluid. Luckily no harm other than the fluid explosion….

 

[archatom]

I found that the new calipers from @cruiseroutfit are actually quite reasonable once you factor in they include the pads and hardware. I would strongly recommend NOT going with any remanufactured components on something safety critical like calipers/pistons and master cylinders. I had to replace a rear piston some year’s back and went with a NAPA remanufactured one since it was available on short notice. This piston had a catastrophic failure in 9 months and blew its seal leaving my rear drum and shoes filled with brake fluid. Luckily no harm other than the fluid explosion….

Im going to see how well the calipers i have work - they were working when i last drove it around. i'll check it out though.

 

[Pighead]

I would strongly recommend NOT going with any remanufactured components on something safety critical like calipers/pistons and master cylinders.

Unless, I think, you did the rebuild yourself. You can do a better job of it. You'll pay more attention, clean it better, hone the bore even if it looks ok. You'll use a better rebuild kit. You are going to double and triple-check everything because it's your rig.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I found that the new calipers from @cruiseroutfit are actually quite reasonable once you factor in they include the pads and hardware. I would strongly recommend NOT going with any remanufactured components on something safety critical like calipers/pistons and master cylinders. I had to replace a rear piston some year’s back and went with a NAPA remanufactured one since it was available on short notice. This piston had a catastrophic failure in 9 months and blew its seal leaving my rear drum and shoes filled with brake fluid. Luckily no harm other than the fluid explosion….

And they are brand new (not reman) OEM parts from Japan. I see many "spared no expenses" builds and they use reman painted calipers from a parts store. They may be fantastic (we offer reman's where applicable) but they also may be rebuild for Napa or Autozone or XYZ by the lowest cost contractor using a "beat it to fit, paint it to match" mentality. We're happy to offer our OEM units for those interested. We also offer OEM and aftermarket caliper rebuild kits for those going that direction, it's about options.

They sure look right on an axle build