learning to wrench: an impulse purchase

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If you’re trying to make a trip in the next couple weeks I’d recommend skipping trying to reseal your transmission and t-case until after.

Use one of these hoses (or make one, but his are pretty nice) from @shipmag


That’ll buy you plenty of time as the reseal should honestly be more of a rebuild, or be prepared for it to be.

I put one on my 40 last year as a temp fix and have driven several thousand miles since.

I’ll do my clutch, rear main, oil pan gasket, t case rebuild, transmission reseal (hopefully gears are all good) and whatever else pops up while “in there” all at the same time.
 
the trip is this weekend but ill bring some tools with and the gearbox oil in case i need to add some or remove some. Main things to get done were all new bulbs for the evening cruise, replace fuses, get the stereo working to drown out the road noise, fix the speedo, and clean her up. so far we are on the way. I did message shipmag about the bypass I think ill get one ordered to have until the gasket repairs are in full swing.
 
well! finally ran into an issue - I have been just driving this guy for about the last year or so. Time to get back into it, random maintenance repairs are getting to be too much. plus suspension is a pain to live with right now - im all over the road if im going above 45.

radiator (aluminum) ordered and a carb rebuild kit - couple smaller things too.

I started to have some problems with idle, and need to keep choke on if i want to idle at all. Thought this was sort of like a - old truck thing. i checked around for vacuum leaks but didnt really see anything. replace air filter etc. Sort of wondering if mice may have gotten into the cat. I think i can hear it back fire when im idling and get the rpms up to 3k. And at low idle the exhaust is a bit choppy.

i have a 3hr road trip the 1st of october. Ive got knuckle rebuild carb rebuild, check ics out, repair some electrical, then i'll rebuild the knuckles and do the brakes. potentially grab some larger tires as well.

for my usecases, i dont really do offroading in my rig, its mostly driving through farmlands, trails to get to small rivers etc. Id like to do the 2" lift - but unsure what to do there. I do occasionally tow a boat (my current suspension does not like that, but its only down the block to drop the boat in the lake). Any recommendations there? I was thinking just a med load 2" lift to fit 33's or 35's. I dont really drive over 65 much. I am wondering about brake lines though after lift is in - ive seen a lot of mixed opinions about that.

questions for you all. for those that use their rigs regularly - what sort of stuff do you keep on hand? dizzy, fuel pump, fuel filter, oil filter, bulbs, air filter? looking to do a bit more than just going around town these days. want to get her safer to drive before upgrading stuff like interior.
 
well! finally ran into an issue - I have been just driving this guy for about the last year or so. Time to get back into it, random maintenance repairs are getting to be too much. plus suspension is a pain to live with right now - im all over the road if im going above 45.

radiator (aluminum) ordered and a carb rebuild kit - couple smaller things too.

I started to have some problems with idle, and need to keep choke on if i want to idle at all. Thought this was sort of like a - old truck thing. i checked around for vacuum leaks but didnt really see anything. replace air filter etc. Sort of wondering if mice may have gotten into the cat. I think i can hear it back fire when im idling and get the rpms up to 3k. And at low idle the exhaust is a bit choppy.

i have a 3hr road trip the 1st of october. Ive got knuckle rebuild carb rebuild, check ics out, repair some electrical, then i'll rebuild the knuckles and do the brakes. potentially grab some larger tires as well.

for my usecases, i dont really do offroading in my rig, its mostly driving through farmlands, trails to get to small rivers etc. Id like to do the 2" lift - but unsure what to do there. I do occasionally tow a boat (my current suspension does not like that, but its only down the block to drop the boat in the lake). Any recommendations there? I was thinking just a med load 2" lift to fit 33's or 35's. I dont really drive over 65 much. I am wondering about brake lines though after lift is in - ive seen a lot of mixed opinions about that.

questions for you all. for those that use their rigs regularly - what sort of stuff do you keep on hand? dizzy, fuel pump, fuel filter, oil filter, bulbs, air filter? looking to do a bit more than just going around town these days. want to get her safer to drive before upgrading stuff like interior.
Sounds to me like you are having carb issues.
Learn how to break it down and clean it out with out messing anything up worse.

Also go through your plugs and wires.

Start there and report back.
 
there also doesnt seem to be very many mods that add some fender flare or something like the jeeps do. I cant even find any good pics of people who may have done that for big tires or something.
The ‘Sahara’ trim for the HJ61 came with factory fibreglass flares. You’re going to struggle to find OEM ones, but I’ve seen some decent reproductions out there.

I think they look pretty great, personally (not my photos)

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I was thinking just a med load 2" lift to fit 33's or 35's. I dont really drive over 65 much. I am wondering about brake lines though after lift is in - ive seen a lot of mixed opinions about that.

If you start going much over 2” lift you run the risk of making your on-road handling much worse and have to start thinking about things like caster adjustment and swapping out steering components. I’d definitely be switching to extended brake lines (ideally braided, while you’re at it) if you’re putting any lift in. You really don’t want a brake line tearing out at full flex

There are also issues with going up too much in tyre size. IMO 35” tyres are too big unless you’re regularly doing serious off-roading. It’s just going to put extra stress on your bearings and diff and throw your speedo and gearing out for no real benefit on-road
 
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questions for you all. for those that use their rigs regularly - what sort of stuff do you keep on hand? dizzy, fuel pump, fuel filter, oil filter, bulbs, air filter?
I probably over-do the keeping stuff on hand thing when I wheel. Tools is the most important thing. Most of the time all you need is to tighten a loose something, so screwdrivers and sockets and end-wrenches and allen bits and such. Breaker bar and extensions to snug up knuckle studs. Mallet and a small sledge. Pry bar. I have a box of just electrical stuff; voltmeter and a bunch of connectors and wire tools and spare LEDs & bulbs and fuses and relays and wire.
I've got the big plastic box full of spares and rebuild kits that are always in the rig. Dizzy and coil and plugwires and plugs, a starter, fuel pump, a few fuel filters, power steering pump, my old tie-rod ends, new fanbelts, every old fanbelt that I've ever taken off, a spare brake master, clutch cylinder rebuild kits, a drive hub for when one of the selectable hubs fails, spare knuckle studs, cone washers, lock washers and nuts, most of an old knuckle kit, spare birf, those snap-rings that keep the birf on the axle. Little stuff like that. I carry a timing light. And welding rods. And fluids, they are important, Brake fluid, power steering fluid, 8 quarts of motor oil and a gallon of 90wt. I got a spare rear driveshaft under the rear seat. I'll carry an impact gun just for lugnuts when going on a big run, not everyday though.
You don't need all of that right now to go wheeling, Landcruisers are good that way. I've been collecting/selecting my trailspares box for 40 years now. Most of the stuff I carry goes to other rigs. I usually wheel with other Landcruisers and figure that somebody is gonna need what I'm packing.

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A good hint on the tools front is to only take what you’re actually going to need in terms of sockets etc. 60s are pretty easy in that you really only need a half dozen socket sizes for like 95% of the nuts and bolts. I’ve seen people bring entire automotive tool kits with 20+ sockets in both imperial and metric and that’s just wasted space and weight

I’ve been slowly going through and replacing oddly-sized aftermarket bolts etc that the PO used with the correct Toyota bolts because it really annoys me when I need to dig out the 13mm socket that isn’t usually kept with the car
 
well! finally ran into an issue - I have been just driving this guy for about the last year or so. Time to get back into it, random maintenance repairs are getting to be too much. plus suspension is a pain to live with right now - im all over the road if im going above 45.

radiator (aluminum) ordered and a carb rebuild kit - couple smaller things too.

I started to have some problems with idle, and need to keep choke on if i want to idle at all. Thought this was sort of like a - old truck thing. i checked around for vacuum leaks but didnt really see anything. replace air filter etc. Sort of wondering if mice may have gotten into the cat. I think i can hear it back fire when im idling and get the rpms up to 3k. And at low idle the exhaust is a bit choppy.
Sounds like a vac leak to me and potentially a misfire. If you've never replaced all the vac hoses in there, replace ALL of them. Just go one at a time so you don't lose track of where they go. It's also a great time to verify that they're all going to the right places. Bust out that 2F Emissions manual and follow along as you swap them. If you don't have a paper copy, check the "Resources" tab at the top of the page, you can find a PDF there. Also check that the nuts holding the carb on are tight and not letting air in. I'd probably swap the spark plugs if you haven't in a while. Old 2Fs make spark plugs gross pretty quick, and they're relatively cheap.

Backfire can be lots of things. Rebuild the carb, follow the "lean drop method" in the manual for tuning it, and set the timing by the book. Then see where you're at.

i have a 3hr road trip the 1st of october. Ive got knuckle rebuild carb rebuild, check ics out, repair some electrical, then i'll rebuild the knuckles and do the brakes. potentially grab some larger tires as well.

for my usecases, i dont really do offroading in my rig, its mostly driving through farmlands, trails to get to small rivers etc. Id like to do the 2" lift - but unsure what to do there. I do occasionally tow a boat (my current suspension does not like that, but its only down the block to drop the boat in the lake). Any recommendations there?
The standard Old Man Emu or Dobinsons 2" lift kit will serve you. Get "medium" if you aren't frequently/permanently loading the truck down with tons of added gear weight. I prefer the Dobinsons, but there are fans of either brand. I also don't like the "yellow" base-level shocks that come with those kits. Either the next level up (IMS in the case of Dobinsons) or Bilsteins of the correct size are much comfier. The yellow shocks always seem WAY too stiff to me.

I was thinking just a med load 2" lift to fit 33's or 35's. I dont really drive over 65 much. I am wondering about brake lines though after lift is in - ive seen a lot of mixed opinions about that.
Your 2F will struggle with 35s, especially in first gear. They would benefit you on the highway adding some "rubber overdrive" (lower rpms at higher speed), but you'll be stressing out your motor trying to get moving from a stop light. 32-33" tires are the sweet spot without regearing the diffs, swapping the transmission to the H55 5spd, or other big work. 2" lift kit, 32-33 tires, and run it.

The two brake hoses at the knuckle can be replaced with stock, length doesn't matter there. For the front axle drop-down brake hose use the rear axle hose from a 60. For the rear axle hose use a T100 pickup truck rear hose. Obviously it's worth getting new hoses. You don't wanna die.
questions for you all. for those that use their rigs regularly - what sort of stuff do you keep on hand? dizzy, fuel pump, fuel filter, oil filter, bulbs, air filter? looking to do a bit more than just going around town these days. want to get her safer to drive before upgrading stuff like interior.
When I'm in the backcountry here in Colorado I carry a lot compared to most people. I've slimmed it down this year quite a bit though. For tools, see the responses above - only bring what you can actually use to self-recover. You don't need SAE anything. Do you really need that pickle fork or tie rod end puller on the trail? Are you actually going to put yourself in a situation where you're going to destroy a TRE? Some people who do heavy rock crawling would need that kind of stuff, the likelihood I personally will is low. 10-12-14-17-19-21 sockets and wrenches are mandatory, with deep sockets for 19 & 21. A JIS screwdriver cross-point screwdriver is mandatory too (get one from Vessel Tools if you don't have one). I carry big channel locks, a 5lb hammer, a stout pry bar, ratchet straps, and bailing wire as well because we're sometimes a 40 mile walk from cell reception out here. I've definitely ratchet strapped a broken motor mount together on the trail a few times. For spares I carry a fuel pump & filter, a voltage regulator for the alternator, various types of goop like RTV JB Weld (great for patching a leaky radiator) and some others, I carry a spare spark plug wire and a couple spark plugs, a long brake hose in case one fails, a bag of various little spring clips and such for brakes. I have a small bag with electrical stuff - about 5' of wire, butt splices, wire strippers, and crimpers. Definitely hoses - coolant hoses of the diameters you would need, all the different sizes of vac hose, and fuel/PCV hose. I have a little bag of random nuts and bolts in the proper JIS sizes that fit this truck - knuckle stud nuts and castle nuts for TREs are especially great to have. I have spares of the transfer case/transmission/diff plugs and gaskets, and the oil pan plug & gaskets. Fuses! Or a fusible link if you're still living in that world. Battery jump pack. I'm sure I have a few more things in my "get unstuck" bag.

Don't forget fluids. I carry 1g of distilled water, two quarts of oil, a quart of gear oil, and a quart of DOT4 brake fluid.

Caveat: I've been over every inch of my truck and there isn't much that hasn't been replaced or addressed. I know my alternator brushes have a lot of life so I don't need an entire alternator. The water pump is two years old, so I leave the spare at home. My carb & dizzy have been cleaned and rebuilt so I'm good there. My TREs are relatively new. I rebuilt the 2F last year. I know the type of off roading and camping I do and what my comfort level for challenge is (yes, I have turned around many times). I know how far I have to extract to get cell coverage. I know how to fix almost anything on the truck, but there comes a point where something MAJOR is wrong and you ain't fixing it on top of a mountain - and so I don't bring stuff like an extra head gasket or rod bearings. I have enough clothing for all weather, enough shelter, and enough food and other means of reaching out if I'm in deep s*** (GMRS or HAM repeaters).

You can plan for every contingency and bring 800lbs of tools and spares, but are you really gonna be replacing a conrod in the northwoods, alone? Cover the stuff with the highest likelihood of going wrong and make a plan for extraction on the rest. And never go wheeling alone!

It's going to be more about planning. Did you torque everything under the truck before the trip, including the lug nuts? Did you solve any vacuum leaks and you're showing a nice 17-20inHg at steady idle? Has the truck tried to overheat on your in the past month or so? Daily driving is a great way to find out what's wrong and address it in a low-risk environment. Worst case you call your buddy for a ride and a tow across town, rather than being stuck in the middle of nowhere.
 
Sounds like a vac leak to me and potentially a misfire. If you've never replaced all the vac hoses in there, replace ALL of them. Just go one at a time so you don't lose track of where they go. It's also a great time to verify that they're all going to the right places. Bust out that 2F Emissions manual and follow along as you swap them. If you don't have a paper copy, check the "Resources" tab at the top of the page, you can find a PDF there. Also check that the nuts holding the carb on are tight and not letting air in. I'd probably swap the spark plugs if you haven't in a while. Old 2Fs make spark plugs gross pretty quick, and they're relatively cheap.

Backfire can be lots of things. Rebuild the carb, follow the "lean drop method" in the manual for tuning it, and set the timing by the book. Then see where you're at.


The standard Old Man Emu or Dobinsons 2" lift kit will serve you. Get "medium" if you aren't frequently/permanently loading the truck down with tons of added gear weight. I prefer the Dobinsons, but there are fans of either brand. I also don't like the "yellow" base-level shocks that come with those kits. Either the next level up (IMS in the case of Dobinsons) or Bilsteins of the correct size are much comfier. The yellow shocks always seem WAY too stiff to me.


Your 2F will struggle with 35s, especially in first gear. They would benefit you on the highway adding some "rubber overdrive" (lower rpms at higher speed), but you'll be stressing out your motor trying to get moving from a stop light. 32-33" tires are the sweet spot without regearing the diffs, swapping the transmission to the H55 5spd, or other big work. 2" lift kit, 32-33 tires, and run it.

The two brake hoses at the knuckle can be replaced with stock, length doesn't matter there. For the front axle drop-down brake hose use the rear axle hose from a 60. For the rear axle hose use a T100 pickup truck rear hose. Obviously it's worth getting new hoses. You don't wanna die.

When I'm in the backcountry here in Colorado I carry a lot compared to most people. I've slimmed it down this year quite a bit though. For tools, see the responses above - only bring what you can actually use to self-recover. You don't need SAE anything. Do you really need that pickle fork or tie rod end puller on the trail? Are you actually going to put yourself in a situation where you're going to destroy a TRE? Some people who do heavy rock crawling would need that kind of stuff, the likelihood I personally will is low. 10-12-14-17-19-21 sockets and wrenches are mandatory, with deep sockets for 19 & 21. A JIS screwdriver cross-point screwdriver is mandatory too (get one from Vessel Tools if you don't have one). I carry big channel locks, a 5lb hammer, a stout pry bar, ratchet straps, and bailing wire as well because we're sometimes a 40 mile walk from cell reception out here. I've definitely ratchet strapped a broken motor mount together on the trail a few times. For spares I carry a fuel pump & filter, a voltage regulator for the alternator, various types of goop like RTV JB Weld (great for patching a leaky radiator) and some others, I carry a spare spark plug wire and a couple spark plugs, a long brake hose in case one fails, a bag of various little spring clips and such for brakes. I have a small bag with electrical stuff - about 5' of wire, butt splices, wire strippers, and crimpers. Definitely hoses - coolant hoses of the diameters you would need, all the different sizes of vac hose, and fuel/PCV hose. I have a little bag of random nuts and bolts in the proper JIS sizes that fit this truck - knuckle stud nuts and castle nuts for TREs are especially great to have. I have spares of the transfer case/transmission/diff plugs and gaskets, and the oil pan plug & gaskets. Fuses! Or a fusible link if you're still living in that world. Battery jump pack. I'm sure I have a few more things in my "get unstuck" bag.

Don't forget fluids. I carry 1g of distilled water, two quarts of oil, a quart of gear oil, and a quart of DOT4 brake fluid.

Caveat: I've been over every inch of my truck and there isn't much that hasn't been replaced or addressed. I know my alternator brushes have a lot of life so I don't need an entire alternator. The water pump is two years old, so I leave the spare at home. My carb & dizzy have been cleaned and rebuilt so I'm good there. My TREs are relatively new. I rebuilt the 2F last year. I know the type of off roading and camping I do and what my comfort level for challenge is (yes, I have turned around many times). I know how far I have to extract to get cell coverage. I know how to fix almost anything on the truck, but there comes a point where something MAJOR is wrong and you ain't fixing it on top of a mountain - and so I don't bring stuff like an extra head gasket or rod bearings. I have enough clothing for all weather, enough shelter, and enough food and other means of reaching out if I'm in deep s*** (GMRS or HAM repeaters).

You can plan for every contingency and bring 800lbs of tools and spares, but are you really gonna be replacing a conrod in the northwoods, alone? Cover the stuff with the highest likelihood of going wrong and make a plan for extraction on the rest. And never go wheeling alone!

It's going to be more about planning. Did you torque everything under the truck before the trip, including the lug nuts? Did you solve any vacuum leaks and you're showing a nice 17-20inHg at steady idle? Has the truck tried to overheat on your in the past month or so? Daily driving is a great way to find out what's wrong and address it in a low-risk environment. Worst case you call your buddy for a ride and a tow across town, rather than being stuck in the middle of nowhere.


Lot of good info in here - I actually just ran into your website the other day looking for fusible link. Thanks for the reply.

I got some stuff in - fuses, and bulbs with a few to spare. I'll get into the brakes here shortly after the carb rebuild. Tested at battery and alternator today and im thinking thats going to need going through as well. Seems like ICS is working, someone else had mentioned that and I went through the test mention (key in and feel click when plugged in, etc). I had the air filter off looking at the carb... and it is DIRTY. I'll post some pics when i go through it.

First time for me, but i found a couple videos - and some diagraming. hoping itll be alright. I got the one from cruiser corps, the one review on there says that it was missing their style of plunger arm. Hoping itll be alright for me, else ill be on the hunt!

I will got through and replace the vacuum lines as well - a bunch of guys have mentioned that, and while i dont think that theres anything wrong with mine. what do i know. I did order a couple more seals as well - and tried to reach out to shipmag too about bypass hose - but it looks like his inbox is full. that should get me around for some deeper testing too.


adding vacuum lines to the list!! dang near everything should have been gone through by the time i leave for this trip on oct 1st.
 
Another dumb thing i was looking into today was radio. If anyone has any good suggestions let me know.

otherwise this Jensen Heavy Duty JHD12 looks like something I would be into. wiring simplified, built in amp. seems good. I do wish it had a knob for volume though 😂

EDIT, if you go back in my posts I think I mentioned that I got a contintental radio in there - yeah, fuses weren't right (my fault), ended up blowing that before i even heard a song.
 
Maybe something like the Blaupunkt 200BT? Built in amp and a volume knob (also a CD player if that’s useful to you)

I’ve heard really good things about the Pioneer SXT-C10PS, but it’s pretty expensive

If you just want something basic that’ll play music, then the intro-level model from almost any of the reputable car audio brands (Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood etc) should do the job

I’m kinda of the opinion that there’s not much point going high-end with audio on these cars anyway unless you’re going to spend the time and money doing comprehensive soundproofing 🤷🏻
 
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Lot of good info in here - I actually just ran into your website the other day looking for fusible link. Thanks for the reply.
After a struggle with my usual vendor on some parts for the FLRK being back ordered, I got some key components for those in the mail from another vendor last night. Ready to build FLRKs (sorry about the delay to anybody reading this who has an outstanding order).
I got some stuff in - fuses, and bulbs with a few to spare. I'll get into the brakes here shortly after the carb rebuild. Tested at battery and alternator today and im thinking thats going to need going through as well. Seems like ICS is working, someone else had mentioned that and I went through the test mention (key in and feel click when plugged in, etc). I had the air filter off looking at the carb... and it is DIRTY. I'll post some pics when i go through it.

First time for me, but i found a couple videos - and some diagraming. hoping itll be alright. I got the one from cruiser corps, the one review on there says that it was missing their style of plunger arm. Hoping itll be alright for me, else ill be on the hunt!
Not sure what plunger you're talking about, but if it's the accelerator pump on the top of the carb then get the reproduction from City Racer - it has a leather seal, which the other options do not.

I will got through and replace the vacuum lines as well - a bunch of guys have mentioned that, and while i dont think that theres anything wrong with mine.
It's a low effort/low expense way to remove one question from the truck. In other words, the peace of mind return on your easy investment is big. The math maths.
what do i know. I did order a couple more seals as well - and tried to reach out to shipmag too about bypass hose - but it looks like his inbox is full. that should get me around for some deeper testing too.


adding vacuum lines to the list!! dang near everything should have been gone through by the time i leave for this trip on oct 1st.
You'll get it all sorted, it takes time and a lot of work. And a lot of Mud research haha.
 
new parts in! woo!

got right to it and started labeling stuff - however i cant seem to get at those 12mm bolts on the passenger side. So it looks like im going to take the whole air filter housing off. Which is fine, i got a valve cover gasket anyway so i can do that too.

really though. those 12mm bolts are ridiculous though 😂

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new parts in! woo!

got right to it and started labeling stuff - however i cant seem to get at those 12mm bolts on the passenger side. So it looks like im going to take the whole air filter housing off. Which is fine, i got a valve cover gasket anyway so i can do that too.

really though. those 12mm bolts are ridiculous though 😂

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The ones on the carb closest to the valve cover? Yeah, kind of a pain. Air cleaner lid comes off to get to those for me. Cut a 12mm open ended wrench down to about 4-5" long and it'll make your life easier. You can even thin out the sides of the part of the wrench that grabs the nut too. Or use the original 10/12mm Toyota wrench that came with the factory tool kit - it's sized perfectly for that.
 
yeah those ones, think ill go see if i can get a decent articulating wrench at harbor freight tomorrow, and ill pick up a couple extras to keep in the rig. I did just pull the whole air cleaner bottom off as well (probably will do valve cover gasket and check those this weekend).
Are folks replacing this bit that goes into the elbow toward the engine? if so what to replace with. I dont even know what to search for to find this. Also, found a mouse nest in it. :bang:


ordering vac hoses tonight - research says 3mm and 5.5mm, think theres any difference in where i order from? It looks like specter offroad (holy crap i cant believe they own that domain name) and HPS performance have both been mentioned before (hps has 3.5mm - ive heard that they are good too). Does it matter?

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That’s the hot air intake hose. Toyota part number 17881-61010. They’re out of production.

From memory (although I’m not a 2F guy), they’re only needed for the emissions control system and not vital for engine function, so you can probably get away with replacing it with some generic hot air hosing. I’m not sure if people blank it off when they de-smog, hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in
 
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I dont even know what to search for to find this.
The best approach is usually to look at the relevant section in your FSM or an online parts diagram. Often it takes a bit of trial and error to work out what sub-diagram the part should be on or what piece it is specifically.

For instance, this is the ‘air cleaner’ diagram for the FJ60 (from Amayama)

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Once you have the part name & number that can help you search the forum or used/aftermarket parts suppliers to find an alternative
 
I should do more of that. The first diagrams i looked at were electrical and vacuum and i didnt know which side was up. im going to have to keep a few of diagrams around. that is extremely helpful. Looks like i can find some generic replacement - which i will do.

At the begining of this thread i think i mentioned i wanted to desmog. But honestly I barely have half a clue of what im doing here. So I think getting everything in good operating order and up to date will be a good starting point before i desmog.


....im includind 2" lift and tires into good operating order though...
 
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