Lake City Limo

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wngrog said:
Rare photo of both orange cats in one spot
Cowboy and Tom the Cat

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Yanked out the Chinese pilot bearing and added a new rear main seal
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Cleaned up the head gasket surface real smooth and dropped it into place. Reminded me of the time @FJ60Cam had a customer with the gasket on backwards.
This tool is clutch. View attachment 2594272Got the motor at TDC in the exhaust stroke before I dropped the head on
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Lined it all up and broke out a couple torque wrenches and went to work in sequence. Last I got a cold valve adjustment done.
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Good day.
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2 ornch kitties?!? That is awesome!!!
 
wngrog said:
Last I got a cold valve adjustment done.
View attachment 2594275

Good day.
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I know this is a can of worms, but what specs do you use to set valves cold?

Obviously on a re-build you can't set 'em hot.

And sometimes it is just a hell of a lot more convenient to set 'em cold.

Do you use the hot specs? Any correction factor because cold?
 
wngrog said:
The clearance is so close here to get a fan clutch into a pre-78 FJ55. @cruiseroutfit helped me work out the measurements for my pig but I forgot I also had to trim the Tacoma fan.

We ordered a fan shroud weeks ago and it turns out it’s a FJ60 shroud. The very good vendor is getting me one out today. I’ll do the 1/2 shell mod to it when it gets here and keep moving forward.

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That is close!

Did you move the tabs on the radiator?
 
wngrog said:
This fan clearance is almost 1” closer than my FJ55 after a good look this morning.
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I banged my head over and over trying to find what the difference between the two setups are.

After about 10 trips back and forth between the two trucks it finally dawned on me that the Warthog has FJ40 motor mounts and the Limo has FJ60 mounts.

I had one of the small mounts here and snuck it into the drivers side mount and the motor shifted rearward putting the motor at an angle. That’s the ticket. Gotta get the smaller mounts for the Limo before I go forward with the rest of the driveline install. I’ve got a pair inbound for Tuesday.
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You are talking about the rubber biscuits, eh?

Would you be able to humor me and get some side-by-side pics of the 40 vs. 60 pieces so I can see?

I know you hate taking pictures, but just this one time...
 
wngrog said:
Started plugging in all the wires and seeing what all the PO hacked up along the way.

This is not as easy as plug and play even if they had not hacked it....why?

First, we are using a 55 watt internal regulated FJ60 alternator. That cuts out a bunch of wires.

Basically you run a jump wire from the yellow/black ignition wire to the bottom plug on the alternator and then run a large gauge wire from the back of the alternator direct to the battery.

Second, we are going to a gear reduction starter. That also eliminates 2 of the 3 starter wires

Third, we have a DUI ignition that uses only one of the OEM ignition wires.

Lots of unused wires.

So, here is my question.

First, what’s a good size parts store fusable link for this system? It, of course did not have one so I need to pick one up tomorrow.

Second, what is this large white wire? It’s hot and it’s in the vicinity of the harness to go to the starter but there is no reference to a WHITE wire in the 1976 harness. My FJ45 has an all white and it powers the harness via the starter and it too has no fusable link.

Since everyone likes pictures here is my progress. Nothing is loomed but it’s 90% done.

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Isn't the white wire to the amp meter in the cluster?

(realize I am behind in my reading, so you probably figured out by now).
 
PabloCruise said:
You are talking about the rubber biscuits, eh?

Would you be able to humor me and get some side-by-side pics of the 40 vs. 60 pieces so I can see?

I know you hate taking pictures, but just this one time...
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Early 2F left

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PabloCruise said:
Isn't the white wire to the amp meter in the cluster?

(realize I am behind in my reading, so you probably figured out by now).
Click to expand...

White in the Pig goes to the battery via fusible link. Yes. Figured it out.
 
PabloCruise said:
I know this is a can of worms, but what specs do you use to set valves cold?

Obviously on a re-build you can't set 'em hot.

And sometimes it is just a hell of a lot more convenient to set 'em cold.

Do you use the hot specs? Any correction factor because cold?
Click to expand...

@Godwin did a nice writup somewhere on hot v cold adjustment and basically decided it’s a wash.

.08 .014 all I ever use. I adjust them to where the tool slips in but hits cold
 
wngrog said:
@Godwin did a nice writup somewhere on hot v cold adjustment and basically decided it’s a wash.

.08 .014 all I ever use. I adjust them to where the tool slips in but hits cold
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Thanks. Drove the 40 yesterday and she sounded like she needed some attention. Always easier to set 'em cold...
 
wngrog said:
@Godwin did a nice writup somewhere on hot v cold adjustment and basically decided it’s a wash.

.08 .014 all I ever use. I adjust them to where the tool slips in but hits cold
Click to expand...

Ha, I had forgotten about that. Probably more important to check and reset regularly that get hung up over hot vs. cold. It's just an old tractor motor.
 
frismanis said:
And I guess sometimes being a drug pusher pays off... especially to vain women. Just got these small boxes of Dysport (competitor to Botox) and cosmetic fillers in. Each of the long boxes sells for $625, and the little boxes work out to $1k/box. Almost $6k of cosmetics in this picture just to make our 50-60 y.o. patients keep their 35-40 y.o. boyfriends thinking their girlfriends are 40 y.o. lol. I guess it brings them joy, just like our money pits bring us joy. Ours just last longer since the women keep having to coming back every month to keep up their rouse.

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That biology makes the world go 'round, eh?
 
Pigeaten said:
Ok, my wife saw your wife on Instagram , told her about Botox like payment. She said your right, your wife is smoking hot. I’m a little nervous
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This makes me suspect I am better off not on the Insta, next thing you know you aren't looking at Cruisers...
 
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