Build “It’s only an axle swap and a motor swap” aka AK2AL aka Dream Build

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3"-4" seems like a lot of distance between radiator and fan. I've only run 1.5"-2" on both my SBC setups with no issues, even without a shroud. Refurbed stock radiator. Only heating issue ever was at the North Rim Pig Party and that turned out to be a faulty radiator cap.

I was just happy I had plenty of room.
I’ve never had a “big motor” and had to worry about hearing issues.

re-coring the stock one would be easiest to mount for sure. The local radiator guys seem good. They have boiled gas tanks for me before.
 
I was just happy I had plenty of room.
I’ve never had a “big motor” and had to worry about hearing issues.

re-coring the stock one would be easiest to mount for sure. The local radiator guys seem good. They have boiled gas tanks for me before.

Just figured shortening the radiator/fan gap might give you a couple in inches and help with shifter location.
Another potential plug and play adjustment. If you’re using the FJ60 shifter and top plate exchange it for the earlier assembly. That’ll move the shifter forward a little over three inches. The assemblies are interchangeable. A lot of us running SBCs did the opposite swap to move our shifter back in order to clear the stock FJ55 heater. More elegant solution rather than cutting up the heater and/or the shifter.
Less gap at the radiator and the shifter swap could give around 5 inches of forward adjustment space.
Onward...
 
Good thoughts @riderjgs ! I hope to get over tomorrow to measure some. Being 3” short here and there had been the story of my life....



Was hard at work tonight.
need a 55 era patch to replace this one ASAP

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Issue with long drive train: trans tunnel is too short, going to have to lengthen it. Would require a 4“ body lift to fit as is.

Cool seeing motor in, even if it is floating.


Trans shifter is pretty close to the old location.
the rear case shifter might be inside my center console. Be custom.


new 80 motor mounts fit right into the 100 metal brackets on motor side. The 100 series frame side mounts were built into the IFS and not really salvageable.

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Moved the body up and down and forward and backwards and eng/cases forward and up and down and backwards while trying to get 1) drive line angles 2) eng/trans angle 3)balance body height relative to frame 4) oil filter/exhaust/eng mount access 5) case/body interference all right at the same time.

this caused for bouncing around from 1) in front of the truck/hoist 2) under truck/cases/jack 3) inside truck trans tunnel 4) lift controls

so I way over-thought it but finally found the best mix and tacked in the Front Range OffRoad Tcase mount. Motor mounts will go pretty quick now that the location is set and I have the old mounts to modify.

pretty much decided to run a high CFM electric fan on the stock radiator at first. If it’s not enough, I’ll get a bigger radiator. Electric fans have gotten pretty reliable and I think the low speed/ sitting in traffic cooling with AC on in AL heat will be nice.

Flying tomorrow. Still need to order a 55 patch from the museum!

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?

Is it dumb to paint my Tcase skid plate and cool crossmember thingie blue to match the truck.....
Looking great, I see where the filter fit is a concern...tight!

I’m a black or “metal” underneath guy these days, have done lots of different colours on suspension etc over the years though, personal preference unless your building to sell.
 
Is it dumb to paint my Tcase skid plate and cool crossmember thingie blue to match the truck.....

Yes, yes it is. :) I'm just poking at you, she's your blank canvas to do how you like with it. 👍

By the way, that last shot of you in the cockpit is awesome!
 
?

Is it dumb to paint my Tcase skid plate and cool crossmember thingie blue to match the truck.....
Not dumb at all, what would be super duper awesome if you could paint every other thingie under your truck a different color of the rainbow. Yeah that would be sweet!!!!!

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Oh and you could paint all your shackles red for the red in the rainbow!
 
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