Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
That's pretty cool, love to see those connections. If you ever want to nerd out on Seikos... let me know
Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (2 Viewers)
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Yeah, all I really need is the cover with the indicator holes in it. The indicator holes in mine are, well….really coming apart.
Restohunter
SILVER Star
Hey brother! Loving the progress on the build. Any chance you ever found an answer on this one? Just got my PDI installed as well and have the constant glow light. Found some fixes on the FZJ side of things but unsure if those work for us
- Thread starter
- #284
Hey I did a deep dive into it last month but haven't done anything more than some research. @HJ61alex was helpful and provided some links to a forum in France -
Connexion
You'd have to register but there's some good info in there.
There's a Russian forum where they discuss which wires to cut - you can kind of understand when you translate it through Chrome but it's difficult.
Отключение ЕГР на 1HD-FT. Фаза 2 - финал.
С первой фазой детально разобрались уже давно - это здесь: http://www.land-crui...showtopic=32705 Однако, несмотря на то, что основной вред этой системы был побежден путем установки физических заглушек на коллектор, остался еще один замечательный и скрытый эффект от работы этой эко-помойки..... Б...
www.land-cruiser.ru
1HD-FT. История мотора, которому не давали нормально дышать…..
В нашей жизни мы часто сталкиваемся с разнообразными казусами. Например, во многих странах мира продаются мощные спортивные автомобили. Однако, мы можем пересчитать по пальцам страны с дорогами, позволяющими владельцу спортивного автомобиля раскрыть весь потенциал своего стального друга, а так же...
www.land-cruiser.ru
Beyond that, I was thinking about just removing the bulb in the cluster. Let me know what you find
- Thread starter
- #285
Reinstalled shifter assembly and got a new parking brake boot:
Continued on my intercooler fitment journey. Not too bad for an angle grinder. It helps that no one will be able to see it hidden behind the bumper.
When I finally get it, I'll clean it up and paint it. Still not quite there though. Driver's side is good, passenger side is rubbing on the IC piping and AC dryer line.
Cleaned up the wiper motor. I lost the nut that holds the arm, but luckily the ACSD assembly that I removed just happened to have an identical nut.
Finished up the carpet refurbish, looking good there.
I think my next upholstery project down the road will be the headliner.
I spent some time in a laser/CNC shop last week and it got me thinking about the rear heater delete. I know I can just use some tape but...
Went a little too far down that rabbit hole, scaled it back.
I think this should work great. I'll report back when I get it installed.
Continued on my intercooler fitment journey. Not too bad for an angle grinder. It helps that no one will be able to see it hidden behind the bumper.
When I finally get it, I'll clean it up and paint it. Still not quite there though. Driver's side is good, passenger side is rubbing on the IC piping and AC dryer line.
Cleaned up the wiper motor. I lost the nut that holds the arm, but luckily the ACSD assembly that I removed just happened to have an identical nut.
Finished up the carpet refurbish, looking good there.
I think my next upholstery project down the road will be the headliner.
I spent some time in a laser/CNC shop last week and it got me thinking about the rear heater delete. I know I can just use some tape but...
Went a little too far down that rabbit hole, scaled it back.
I think this should work great. I'll report back when I get it installed.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #286
Working on cleaning up the remnants of the Japanese wiring. Looks like someone tapped into the reverse light. I pulled the wire a while back but today I got rid of the EZ tap.
All cleaned up:
In preparation for a stereo install, I wanted to verify that the factory amp was bypassed. It was unplugged already, and the connectors were wrapped up in this foam, along with a long coiled up purple wire that taps into a connector going into the emissions ECU.
Google translate is only slightly helpful
So I'm guessing some previous stereo needed a VSS signal and I'll just pull this out. I'll double check the EWD but I believe they tapped into a ground to ground it out like you do with the parking brake wire on a stereo. You'd think they could find a better ground location than chopping into the emissions ECU...
Just a little bit of hokey wiring going to the cigarette lighter and then we should be golden.
@Dirty Koala stopped by and helped me pull the hood so I can get the cowl cleaned up. It was so easy, I should have done it a month ago when I was working on coolant hoses and the valve cover.
All cleaned up:
In preparation for a stereo install, I wanted to verify that the factory amp was bypassed. It was unplugged already, and the connectors were wrapped up in this foam, along with a long coiled up purple wire that taps into a connector going into the emissions ECU.
Google translate is only slightly helpful
So I'm guessing some previous stereo needed a VSS signal and I'll just pull this out. I'll double check the EWD but I believe they tapped into a ground to ground it out like you do with the parking brake wire on a stereo. You'd think they could find a better ground location than chopping into the emissions ECU...
Just a little bit of hokey wiring going to the cigarette lighter and then we should be golden.
@Dirty Koala stopped by and helped me pull the hood so I can get the cowl cleaned up. It was so easy, I should have done it a month ago when I was working on coolant hoses and the valve cover.
- Thread starter
- #287
I ended up choosing function over form and went with a Sony CarPlay head unit instead of a Blaupunkt/period correct deck. This one just got discontinued but has a capacitive screen. The new version is identical but just adds an HDMI port, which I don't need.
I would have liked a volume knob but those are few and far between these days. This at least has physical volume buttons.
OEM brackets go right on -
Picked up the Metra 70-1761 harness that bypasses the factory amp. From here it's a simple job of lining up the colors and connecting the wires.
I left the power antenna and backup camera wires disconnected. For the green parking brake wire I'll cut that down and add a ring connector to ground it to the chassis.
This unit has wired CarPlay so I added a USB charger/CarPlay pass through combo charger in place of the cigarette lighter:
I also added a CDL switch as you can see in the upper right hand corner of that last pic. I did the "Pin 7 Mod" as well.
The ABS module on the HDJ81 is on the right side of the car, next to the accelerator pedal. I know this is well documented on Mud for LHD FZJ80s but here are a few pics.
I followed the Slee directions here:
sleeoffroad.com
Remove the silver ABS module/bracket up above the accelerator pedal:
Once it's moved out of the way you have access to the Transmission Relay with the plug we'll be modifying.
Pull pin 7, the black wire with a blue stripe.
Taped up and good to go. Reassemble.
I would have liked a volume knob but those are few and far between these days. This at least has physical volume buttons.
OEM brackets go right on -
Picked up the Metra 70-1761 harness that bypasses the factory amp. From here it's a simple job of lining up the colors and connecting the wires.
I left the power antenna and backup camera wires disconnected. For the green parking brake wire I'll cut that down and add a ring connector to ground it to the chassis.
This unit has wired CarPlay so I added a USB charger/CarPlay pass through combo charger in place of the cigarette lighter:
I also added a CDL switch as you can see in the upper right hand corner of that last pic. I did the "Pin 7 Mod" as well.
The ABS module on the HDJ81 is on the right side of the car, next to the accelerator pedal. I know this is well documented on Mud for LHD FZJ80s but here are a few pics.
I followed the Slee directions here:
Center Differential Lock Pin 7 Mod - Slee Off Road
This modification does not have anything to do with the CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK SWITCH (CDL) directly. You do not have to do this, if you just install a CDL
sleeoffroad.com
Remove the silver ABS module/bracket up above the accelerator pedal:
Once it's moved out of the way you have access to the Transmission Relay with the plug we'll be modifying.
Pull pin 7, the black wire with a blue stripe.
Taped up and good to go. Reassemble.
- Thread starter
- #288
I also installed the boost sensor that I got from Lutz Auto. I used rivnuts on the cowl/bulkhead next to the heater valve. I tried to replicate the way that the heater valve is mounted with metal washer - rubber washer - heater valve - rubber washer - metal washer.
Started working on wiring up the boost gauge. I staggered these crimp connectors since I'll be running the 3 wires through a braided sleeve and want to avoid one big lump where all the connectors are.
Started working on wiring up the boost gauge. I staggered these crimp connectors since I'll be running the 3 wires through a braided sleeve and want to avoid one big lump where all the connectors are.
FMC80
SILVER Star
This thread is great on so many levels. Great pictures and I especially like your methodical approach to maintenance.
May i ask, what was the part number for that good looking future-proof (usb-c) cigarette lighter usb port ? I will purchase the same for my hdj ! My old usb adapter is slowly charging !
This unit has wired CarPlay so I added a USB charger/CarPlay pass through combo charger in place of the cigarette lighter:
- Thread starter
- #292
Thanks man!
Haha nah the weather's cooling down for camping and I gotta get this thing running again!!
- Thread starter
- #293
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Any idea on the part number for the radio mounts?
- Thread starter
- #295
They came with the cruiser but I believe they are:
Radio Bracket no. 1: 8621160050
Radio Bracket no. 2: 8621260050
- Thread starter
- #296
Ring terminals showed up so I finished the Sony harness.
I grounded the parking brake here:
Haven't function checked it yet but it's in.. went to go connect the batteries and realized I needed to re-route the trans cooler lines.
I originally had both lines running through the large hole behind the headlight. I checked fitment on headlights, turn signals and grille but forgot about the battery box. I changed them to this setup - lower line running underneath the IC pipe and the upper running over it. It all fits under the battery box now.
The stock battery mounts are tearing the sides of the battery trays so I installed the battery kit from Land Cruiser Products. It's a great setup, except it doesn't quite work with my batteries. The battery strap hits the vents on top. I need to figure out if I can drill some holes slightly to the left to try to center the strap but I haven't figured out how yet.
I'm considering DIYing a hybrid reinforced OEM battery box with additional metal plate underneath that this battery tie down can hook into. I like the sealed off design but not the fiberglass mounting system.
Back to the stock setup for now until I come up with a solution.
Worked on the boost and EGT sensors.
Ran the boost wiring through some Techflex woven sleeve with heat shrink on the end -
Cut off one of the nibs on this firewall grommet and ran the wiring through with the end of a zip tie and some electrical tape.
And ran it up to the clock location where the multigauge will install.
Finished:
I grounded the parking brake here:
Haven't function checked it yet but it's in.. went to go connect the batteries and realized I needed to re-route the trans cooler lines.
I originally had both lines running through the large hole behind the headlight. I checked fitment on headlights, turn signals and grille but forgot about the battery box. I changed them to this setup - lower line running underneath the IC pipe and the upper running over it. It all fits under the battery box now.
The stock battery mounts are tearing the sides of the battery trays so I installed the battery kit from Land Cruiser Products. It's a great setup, except it doesn't quite work with my batteries. The battery strap hits the vents on top. I need to figure out if I can drill some holes slightly to the left to try to center the strap but I haven't figured out how yet.
I'm considering DIYing a hybrid reinforced OEM battery box with additional metal plate underneath that this battery tie down can hook into. I like the sealed off design but not the fiberglass mounting system.
Back to the stock setup for now until I come up with a solution.
Worked on the boost and EGT sensors.
Ran the boost wiring through some Techflex woven sleeve with heat shrink on the end -
Cut off one of the nibs on this firewall grommet and ran the wiring through with the end of a zip tie and some electrical tape.
And ran it up to the clock location where the multigauge will install.
Finished:
- Thread starter
- #297
Ran to the junkyard to pick up a rust free hatch off an 80 out of Nevada -
I'll try a fix on my current hatch rust and see how long it lasts. This can be a long term project for me to learn how to do bodywork and paint.
Worked on the @Lutz Auto Multi Gauge. It sits in the OEM clock location:
To center the screen and get it to fit just right you need to file off a little plastic on either side of the screen:
I made a custom startup screen:
Rad setup. I'm excited to get it installed and working. I initially wanted analog gauges to be able to see the needles move vs a digital display but the more I looked into gauge pods and mounts I decided I'd rather have a clean minimal setup like this. For now I'm only wiring up EGT and boost but it supports oil pressure and trans temp as well.
I'll try a fix on my current hatch rust and see how long it lasts. This can be a long term project for me to learn how to do bodywork and paint.
Worked on the @Lutz Auto Multi Gauge. It sits in the OEM clock location:
To center the screen and get it to fit just right you need to file off a little plastic on either side of the screen:
I made a custom startup screen:
Rad setup. I'm excited to get it installed and working. I initially wanted analog gauges to be able to see the needles move vs a digital display but the more I looked into gauge pods and mounts I decided I'd rather have a clean minimal setup like this. For now I'm only wiring up EGT and boost but it supports oil pressure and trans temp as well.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
nice work. The Lutz gauge is interesting. Off to check it out . . .
- Thread starter
- #299
Yeah it's cool - obviously I gotta get it running and driving to really see how it does but it's good so far.
Toyota | Lutz Auto
www.lutzauto.com
The functionality is pretty minimal for HDJs as all you can do is add exterior sensors/gauges but I believe OBD2 80s can do more.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
mine is an OBD1 1fz-fe, so would have limited functionality for me tooYeah it's cool - obviously I gotta get it running and driving to really see how it does but it's good so far.
Toyota | Lutz Auto
The functionality is pretty minimal for HDJs as all you can do is add exterior sensors/gauges but I believe OBD2 80s can do more.
