I switched all my bolts to SHCP (Socket Head Cap Screws)

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ouroutdoorfamily

ouroutdoorfamily

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 2, 2009
Threads
175
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872
Location
Tomball, Texas
The reasons for this might sounds strange, but I believe they are sound:

1. I didn't want any shiny stuff on my FJ, no chrome, and no Stainless Steel.
2. SHCS don't "strip out", those Philips head M6 bolts can and will stripp out.
3. 20 years from now, if and when I have to replace any hardware, I should be able to lossen a rusted or damaged bolt with an allen wrench better than a socket.... plus the larger, higher head makes a great surface space for Vise Grips.
4. I love the Black Oxide look of the hardware

So far I have only reused a few of the original bolts, mainly the M10 sizes dealing with the engine and transmission, but all external bolts and interior bolts have and will be replaced from Hex Head to SHCS.

I read the Bolt thread, but I'm finding that M6 X 1.00- 16mm and M8 X 1.25 - 25mm covers about 85% of everything on the FJ.
of course use these with split washers and Flange Lock Nuts where needed.

I got everything very cheap from McMaster Carr.
 
Of course there are some other sizes such as M4, M5, M10 and M12, for the the "exterior" stuff, yes I can give you a price... let me count tonight, I bought the large lots from McMaster, so most everything came in lots of 100, of course you won't need that much, but now I have extras until Jesus returns, lol

I went to Lowes and bought everything I needed and it was about $225.... I found and ordered 90% of that (in large lots), for about $100.

But I'll count tonight and try to get an accurate count and price, as well as post a few pics of the hardware.
 
Here's the first list I ordered from McMaster Carr


91190A540 Black Stl Lock Washer for Sckt Head Cap Screw M6 Screw Size, 9.9mm OD, 1.5mm min Thick, Packs of 100=$3.64 (1 pack)

91190A550 Black Stl Lock Washer for Sckt Head Cap Screw M8 Screw Size, 12.7mm OD, 1.9mm min Thick, Packs of 100=$4.15 (1 pack)

97416A111 Black-Oxide Steel Type A SAE Flat Washer No. 6 Screw Size, 3/8" OD, .03"-.07" Thick, Packs of 100=$1.86 (1 pack)

91290A426 Metric Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw Alloy Stl, M8 Thread, 20mm Length, 1.25mm Pitch, Packs of 50=$9.22 (1 pack)

91290A432 Metric Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw Alloy Stl, M8 Thread, 25mm Length, 1.25mm Pitch, Packs of 50=$9.26 (1 pack)

91290A321 Metric Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw Alloy Stl, M6 Thread, 16mm Length, 1mm Pitch, Packs of 100=$7.39 (1 pack)

94920A400 Black Class 8 Stl Serrated-Flange Hex Locknut M6 Size, 1mm Pitch, 10mm Width, 5.5mm O'all H, Packs of 25=$14.98 (2 packs) (scroll down, last option)

94920A500 Black Class 8 Stl Serrated-Flange Hex Locknut M8 Size, 1.25mm Pitch, 13mm Width, 7mm O'all H, Packs of 25=$22.86 (2 packs) (scroll down, last option)
 
ouroutdoorfamily said:
3. 20 years from now, if and when I have to replace any hardware, I should be able to lossen a rusted or damaged bolt with an allen wrench better than a socket....
Click to expand...




This statement is great. :lol:



Thank you for the laugh.







Fixed your botls in the title for ya.





Back to your fantasy land; sorry to interrupt.

:beer:
 
ouroutdoorfamily said:
The reasons for this might sounds strange, but I believe they are sound:

1. I didn't want any shiny stuff on my FJ, no chrome, and no Stainless Steel.
2. SHCS don't "strip out", those Philips head M6 bolts can and will stripp out.
3. 20 years from now, if and when I have to replace any hardware, I should be able to lossen a rusted or damaged bolt with an allen wrench better than a socket.... plus the larger, higher head makes a great surface space for Vise Grips.
4. I love the Black Oxide look of the hardware

So far I have only reused a few of the original bolts, mainly the M10 sizes dealing with the engine and transmission, but all external bolts and interior bolts have and will be replaced from Hex Head to SHCS.

I read the Bolt thread, but I'm finding that M6 X 1.00- 16mm and M8 X 1.25 - 25mm covers about 85% of everything on the FJ.
of course use these with split washers and Flange Lock Nuts where needed.

I got everything very cheap from McMaster Carr.
Click to expand...

Congratulations, you have greatly downgraded your cruiser. You now can look forward to every bolt rusting rapidly (black oxide is not weather resistant). There is a reason you were able to get your crappy hardware cheap.

Your belief and statement that the head of a socket head bolt is less likely to strip out than a cap screw is 100% wrong.

When you sell your cruiser, you will be the PO that future owners complain about....
 
Yeah I have heard that the black oxide is not "weather resistant", but I did 2-1/2 years of mold design and repair and all our molds were using black oxide SHCS, they were subjected to water and cleaners 24 hours a day. Very seldom did we have to replace hardware.

I guess I could be wrong, but I am just going off experience. Taking off the old hardware from the truck when we got it home we broke off or stripped out 60% of all the hardware. I spent 2 entire days drilling bolts. Having a thicker head would have been useful for the vise grips.

Thanks for the tips and advice, hopefully the hardware will last, but if not, I will be the first one to say, "You guys were right", lol
 
crushr said:
Congratulations, you have greatly downgraded your cruiser. You now can look forward to every bolt rusting rapidly (black oxide is not weather resistant). There is a reason you were able to get your crappy hardware cheap.

Your belief and statement that the head of a socket head bolt is less likely to strip out than a cap screw is 100% wrong.

When you sell your cruiser, you will be the PO that future owners complain about....
Click to expand...

Damn... a little rough on the guy. :eek: Informative... but a bit on the grumpy side of informative...

ouroutdoorfamily- look at it this way, you have learned an awful lot about your cruiser, too bad you may be doing it all over soon.

Good luck man- and here's to learning the hard way :cheers: (unfortunately, i'm well versed in that method of learning...)
 
Some personal experience with the black oxide finish--I live in the land of virtually no rust on fasteners, even out in the weather.

I had some black oxide hardware on the roof rack to hold a can holder up there. After just one year they were badly rusted and difficult to get back apart.

ANyway, I don't see this as a good plan either, and had a pre-existing thought to not use black oxide again, and then I saw your post.

I have used a bit of stainless hardware before on non-critical fasteners like hinges and that's a good application for it. Mostly though, just stick with good grades of Zinc and Cadmium plated stuff and you'll be fine. I like antiseize too for fasteners you plan to take apart again. Locktite on the stuff you don't.
 
No way that will I be following suit.

I too reckon that "black-grade" fasteners of any type are very prone to rusting.

And I reckon that allen-head fasteners are also very prone to the drive-hex stripping out.

(But I like to see people "doing their own thing". :D)
 
wow.... well I can't say I usually buy anything off Amazon with a lot of negitive reviews, so with this many comments against going that route I guess I will just follow the Stainless Steel route and play it "better safe than sorry"... consider your comments heard and followed!

Chris
 
I applaud you for sticking to your guns if you decide to, but let us know when you replace them. You will replace them and all of that money down the drain.
 
I really like the factory Toyota (are they zinc or cadmium plated?) plated fasteners. They are strong and they stay bright. I have posted parts wanted threads seeking them, and have also raided wrecked Toyotas in pick and pull yards to get them. I have very limited experience with that black unplated stuff but what little I have used them, they rusted really fast, even in our comparatively dry climate.

I do like the look of an allen-head bolt, though!

Good luck, outdoor!

:)
 
Be careful using Stainless Steel, it is quite soft and unless the threads you are fastening into are clean and bright you can easily gall the threads. When that happens, then you, not the bolt, are screwed....

The only thing I've found softer than stainless is that Yellow Cadmium plated crap Specter Off Road sells. (low carbon Chinese)

BTW, I used both on my Cruiser and they worked very well. My point is....be careful...!
 
There are lots of stainless grades - some are definately not "soft".

It is true stainless can gall and then you are likely to break something when you unscrew it. Seems most likely to happen with larger diameters screwed into mild steel. I had a 1" pipe fitting stuck fast after it was little more than hand tightened to check a fit.

Hex heads have worked well for me when I use an impact tool to undo them. Stay away from small sizes though and ditto on the black oxide finishes.
 
i could not find any so i bought these

I needed the three "inside" bolts on the water pump assembly. The only screws the hardware store had that would fit were the "black ones". I have not installed them yet....good thing I guess:doh:
 
Will rust in time

We use them on custom seating systems (wheel chairs). They stand up quite well to piss and cleaning products quite well. They do rust in time. I wouldn't hesitate to use them but, I'd paint them and use "NeverSeeze".

Here even oem bolts rust. If you pull apart a hardtop almost all the bolts will break.
 
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