SNOW. So i got to adjust and aim the lights a bit, still needs some tuning.
The light in this video is not very much acurate, but it shows some of the difference in the amber lights in the stock lights, upgraded hi lo bucket for the outer light. amber in all oem lights, and 4300k in the 24v Luminators. They have a great pattern, i think.
overall, i think the video is darker than irl.
Here is a vid of part of my drive home today.
Earlier today, the view was great, but there's not much sun left.
What else have i been up too... Yeah, put in a circulating heater, 1100w.
Thermostat lets it run to 60deg C. after about 45 minutes in freezing temps it starts to kick in and out every other minute or so. Seems legit.
Used the same heater in my 73 diesel before, never had an issue.
it gets water in from the outlet in the block above the oil filter, and lets it trough the cab before entering the engine again.
Engine heats up nice, and the heater does not limit any circulation.
window is even cleared of ice, due to the heat in the heat exhanger cab.
But i dont know if the engine is running warm enough, my mind at least thinks it's taking a bit long to build up to 'working temp. And when running at idle for a few minutes, it cools way down.
My 2H engine never did that. It went fast to operating temps, and stayed there at idle.
I put in i oem 88 deg cold spec t-stat, and swapped the waterpump, as it was a bit of moist in the weep hole.
i wonder if the tap i did from the lower block would interfere with the t-stat, i mean maybe the water flow should not go that way to the cab heater.
If i just put the heater before the hot valve, pulling water from the top of the engine, system still stays stock, but i dont get the benefit of tapping into the lower part of the engine water level, and with the heater in the top, it might not circulate that much. am i making any sense?
I'll experiment with it when it gets colder.
