- Thread starter
- #101
Here was the torn signal for the cable locker... Easy fix ;p
Build HJ61 Cruiser build
- Thread starter TLC Norway
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #102
Got to use my spare brake shoe link cable, or whatever it's called...
I'll just post it here, since it seemed like a quality part, has part number:
47616-60010 drum wire.
Changed it while doing brakes, bearings and wheel stud.
I'll just post it here, since it seemed like a quality part, has part number:
47616-60010 drum wire.
Changed it while doing brakes, bearings and wheel stud.
- Thread starter
- #103
A friend of mine posted a video recorded years ago, when I had the old Hj60 in the powder.
Dude, good work on the new sixty! Havent been in this section for a while now so this is the first time Ive seen the new rig on the road. Glad youre making the most of it.
D
D
- Thread starter
- #106
I think it's an 2010 model, maybe 09. in inch of bodylift, loots of cutting and 44mm of lift, i think. Regeared, rear arb, 2" mount front and back for winch, and misc hidden upgrades. Runs on 37's now.
Built by arctictrucks, you can buy it here: http://arctictrucks.com/Frontpage/Brands/Toyota/Hilux/AT35-15-Wheels
;p
i love finding old videos of our big and small adventures here. there's a few videos of my previous 60 at my youtube channel.
i try to collect some of the stupid things in that list: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL46F75B338743D334
Built by arctictrucks, you can buy it here: http://arctictrucks.com/Frontpage/Brands/Toyota/Hilux/AT35-15-Wheels
;p
i love finding old videos of our big and small adventures here. there's a few videos of my previous 60 at my youtube channel.
i try to collect some of the stupid things in that list: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL46F75B338743D334
- Thread starter
- #107
Thanks, mate! Yeah, i'm trying to make the most of it. But it's a challenge, having it as a DD too. Maybe not the best idea with a 500k km ride, but i like it. (it that like 320k miles?)
Im on the kms too man and yeah thats a bunch.
Honestly a cheap assed dd is a good thing. Buy yourself a little 03 corolla or something and drive that when the sixty is getting love... or broken lol. I drove a 90 extended cab mini for 2 years as dd while storing my old tacoma during the winter and while I loved the fact that as long as it started I was golden, it was a low point in my daily driver history. Well besides the pos 88 tercel I had in college drunken duct tape racing stripes and all. I still remember stuffing 3 friends and 4 mountain bikes into that 2 door and basically offroading it to cool spots.
Somethin to be said for a crappy but reliable dd man...
D
Honestly a cheap assed dd is a good thing. Buy yourself a little 03 corolla or something and drive that when the sixty is getting love... or broken lol. I drove a 90 extended cab mini for 2 years as dd while storing my old tacoma during the winter and while I loved the fact that as long as it started I was golden, it was a low point in my daily driver history. Well besides the pos 88 tercel I had in college drunken duct tape racing stripes and all. I still remember stuffing 3 friends and 4 mountain bikes into that 2 door and basically offroading it to cool spots.
Somethin to be said for a crappy but reliable dd man...
D
- Thread starter
- #109
Yeah, i'm looking for a DD, but winter prices for cars are just crazy, as i need a 4wd just to get to work during winter. and 
killed the impreza a couple weeks ago. Car is a wreck, but she's doing fine, just bruised up.. So now we just signed a contract for a 02 d4d Rav4 with NO rust. Got a new turbo fitted before picking it up monday.
Shoud be ok for her DD. I'll just have to try hard to keep it stock.
Now im having some big service coming up on the Cruiser, ordering 4rnr calipers, full axle rebuild, transfer rebuild and misc to get it up to shape.
It's 15deg c below freezing, so i went out to fire up the cruiser, and i was ready to brag about the glow screen working mint again, after changing a solenoid.
But it was just dead. Batteries down to 5 and 9 volts!
New batteries this summer, charging has been mint, regulator working as a champ, and no intermittent power draws... DAMMIT!
So now im trying to ressurect them with a smart charger, one at a time.
I know for a fact they will not perform, hoping to get them under warranty monday...
I've been monitoring the batteries after i changed all the ground leads and main wires, since the 24v system is pretty prone to overcharging the high side battery if any resistance in the wiring.
anyway, since i couldn't drive out to get my dose of northern light protograpy, i played with my headlight around the cruiser, after i hooked up the charger.
So this is my Christmas card to all of you!
killed the impreza a couple weeks ago. Car is a wreck, but she's doing fine, just bruised up.. So now we just signed a contract for a 02 d4d Rav4 with NO rust. Got a new turbo fitted before picking it up monday. Shoud be ok for her DD. I'll just have to try hard to keep it stock.
Now im having some big service coming up on the Cruiser, ordering 4rnr calipers, full axle rebuild, transfer rebuild and misc to get it up to shape.
It's 15deg c below freezing, so i went out to fire up the cruiser, and i was ready to brag about the glow screen working mint again, after changing a solenoid.
But it was just dead. Batteries down to 5 and 9 volts!
New batteries this summer, charging has been mint, regulator working as a champ, and no intermittent power draws... DAMMIT!
So now im trying to ressurect them with a smart charger, one at a time.
I know for a fact they will not perform, hoping to get them under warranty monday...
I've been monitoring the batteries after i changed all the ground leads and main wires, since the 24v system is pretty prone to overcharging the high side battery if any resistance in the wiring.
anyway, since i couldn't drive out to get my dose of northern light protograpy, i played with my headlight around the cruiser, after i hooked up the charger.
So this is my Christmas card to all of you!
- Thread starter
- #111
Thanks… went for a little ride to check charging, seems good.
But maybe the power lock mechanism is stealing some juice.
it's like I can hear a click in the rear quarter/belly/gas tank area when connecting ground cable. Like a relay click sound.
I'll try some locating tomorrow.
Got a few AuroraBorealis shots in the cold, but it died on me before I could setup out of reach from lights.
But maybe the power lock mechanism is stealing some juice.
it's like I can hear a click in the rear quarter/belly/gas tank area when connecting ground cable. Like a relay click sound.
I'll try some locating tomorrow.
Got a few AuroraBorealis shots in the cold, but it died on me before I could setup out of reach from lights.
Try removing the 'Door' fuse from the main fuse box and see if the drain goes away. See posts #17 and #26 in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/we...lp-required-please.816618/page-2#post-9345584
If you read the wiring diagram, you should see that the 'Door' fuse is actually only for the rear door solenoid...but double check with a door open by removing the fuse and seeing if the front doors still actuate with the 'Door' fuse removed...
...the front doors are protected by a Circuit Breaker (CB) instead of a fuse...see wiring diagram on post #17 in link above...
This is the main fuse panel for an HJ60, I'd assume that it would be the same for the HJ61?
'Door' fuse is the 15A one: column #1, row #4
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #113
Thanks @Slow Left , now I have to look into this tomorrow.
I guess there are differences between the disgrams ive seen and the 24v hj61 I posess.
You know, I bought the rig in pieces, still a few boxes of crap left to install.
Only have a solenoid in the front ds door.
Front power windows are working.
I did notice that the ds solenoid was slow today, even with charge on batteries.
I just thought it was the cold…
Dammit, gremlings in the cold!
I have to put up a shed to be able to do more stuff this winter.
I guess there are differences between the disgrams ive seen and the 24v hj61 I posess.
You know, I bought the rig in pieces, still a few boxes of crap left to install.
Only have a solenoid in the front ds door.
Front power windows are working.
I did notice that the ds solenoid was slow today, even with charge on batteries.
I just thought it was the cold…
Dammit, gremlings in the cold!
I have to put up a shed to be able to do more stuff this winter.
- Thread starter
- #114
This is the main fuse panel for an HJ60, I'd assume that it would be the same for the HJ61?
'Door' fuse is the 15A one: column #1, row #4
Here's my fuse panel... same, but small differences: (with a little teaser in the dash)
Removing the DOOR fuse did nothing.
Lock switch on door still acuates the lock.
and when i pulled the ground off battery, there was still relay sounds when hooking it back up to the battery.
Soo, i dug into the quarter, to find a rat's nest.
Someone hooked up a 24-12 converter to a relay block, witch powers the trailer plug. Nifty, just not pretty. (pic below)
Signals were stolen from tail light. So i thought that was the relay click origin.
Unplugged everything, still clicking.
So i pulled the ground from the two DOOR CONTROL relays (pic below)
-but still there was relay clicking!!!
Next thing, i pulled the wires from the relays, and i think the intermittent draw is gone. But due to the cold, i stopped there.
(btw, lock button on drivers door still works, with fuse and relays out)
There's been several recent threads about guys having to remove aftermarket trailer light harnesses wired into that rear quarter panel OEM wiring...but those have been 12V systems...so that 24/12V converter is only going to add additional complications.
Is that trailer light harness and 24/12V converter OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer, aka Toyota) or did the previous owner (PO) install it and make the cuts into the OEM harness on his own?
If it is OEM, then I expect there should be some way to troubleshoot it...if it is aftermarket and you don't need it, I wonder if you might be better off removing it and restoring the wiring back to the OEM.
Is that trailer light harness and 24/12V converter OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer, aka Toyota) or did the previous owner (PO) install it and make the cuts into the OEM harness on his own?
If it is OEM, then I expect there should be some way to troubleshoot it...if it is aftermarket and you don't need it, I wonder if you might be better off removing it and restoring the wiring back to the OEM.
- Thread starter
- #116
Well, I disconnected it, as I will set it up a bit differently when I am done with rear hitch and mods.
It's a common relay block from Hella, rigged by PO, and they were good units.
I just don't like the way they were tapped into the oem loom, so I'll diagnose it at some point and solder the connections and add a fuse and switch.
The mess with the hella relay and the converter was isolated from the other wiring, so it had nothing to do with the door control relays.
It's a common relay block from Hella, rigged by PO, and they were good units.
I just don't like the way they were tapped into the oem loom, so I'll diagnose it at some point and solder the connections and add a fuse and switch.
The mess with the hella relay and the converter was isolated from the other wiring, so it had nothing to do with the door control relays.
- Thread starter
- #118
- Thread starter
- #119
Finally got to test the glow system after two cold days. Everything is up to task, diesel is purrrring ,cold water idle up is also working.
Just a little note. Cold high idle up reacts upon oil temperature, not water temperature if memory serves me right.
The 12h-t really starts easy in the cold with a little hot air.
The 12h-t really starts easy in the cold with a little hot air.