Drop the main caps off, one at a time. If you plugged or blocked an oil journal it has to have happened on a main.
That said, the rod bearings tend to go first.
That said, the rod bearings tend to go first.
Help! She died today and won't turn over -UPDATE it's a spun bearing
- Thread starter Cgn1976
- Start date
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Also, crankshaft needs to spin to allow oil flow through the mains and rod journals. Thats why you need to crank it over while supplying oil pressure.
Good, so you probably didn't break anything. Hopefully just wear items then. This is doable. LandCruisers love bandaids.
I think I'd start by loosening your conn-rod bearing caps, the ones you can reach. If you're real lucky it's one of those and your job is half done. They gonna have to come off anyway if it's a main...
- Thread starter
- #85
At lunch I managed to get 4 of 6 caps off the connector rods and all of the bearings were very lubed up with oil (oil fully coated and dripping off them) and in really good shape...super smooth, as was the crank. None of the bearings were spun. All fully seated where they should be. I had to use a huge set of channel locks to be able to grab the cap and wedge them off and couldn't get at the 3rd and 4th cylinder from the front, as those were more at the top of their stroke. I think the right size channel lock will make it doable. It very much looks like they have been getting plenty of oil.
As I spun the flywheel with the pry bar on the teeth today, on the 2 teeth it moves, everything feels so smooth, but then in both directions it's hitting a hard stop. Feels like metal clunking into metal. Not the feeling of what I'd imagine a spun bearing would feel like, but I have never dealt with any of this so what the hell do I know. Looking over the manual a bunch, I'm trying to figure out what would cause this hard stop of the crank in both directions but let it spin a little back and forth smoothly.
Wouldn't be anything in a cylinder right, because wouldn't I be able to spin it back the other way and it wouldn't stop until it got all the way to the top of the stroke again...grasping at straws here but trying to take what I know and eliminate some potential reasons.
Anyway, onto the other 2 connector rod caps then the main bearings I suppose, but probably not until lunch again tomorrow or after the fam falls asleep and I can fire up the work light.
As I spun the flywheel with the pry bar on the teeth today, on the 2 teeth it moves, everything feels so smooth, but then in both directions it's hitting a hard stop. Feels like metal clunking into metal. Not the feeling of what I'd imagine a spun bearing would feel like, but I have never dealt with any of this so what the hell do I know. Looking over the manual a bunch, I'm trying to figure out what would cause this hard stop of the crank in both directions but let it spin a little back and forth smoothly.
Wouldn't be anything in a cylinder right, because wouldn't I be able to spin it back the other way and it wouldn't stop until it got all the way to the top of the stroke again...grasping at straws here but trying to take what I know and eliminate some potential reasons.
Anyway, onto the other 2 connector rod caps then the main bearings I suppose, but probably not until lunch again tomorrow or after the fam falls asleep and I can fire up the work light.
- Thread starter
- #87
It is now, but I had it off and same thing with or without it. I also can freely spin the gear o the starter. 99% sure the starter is in working order.
I also spun the alternator today. Free spinner. Gotta go out and loosen the belt and try the water pump and power steering pump I guess That said, every single one of these bolt ons are new items I put on since I got it. Water pump last summer, starter about 8 months ago, alternator 6 months ago, power steering pump 2 months ago.
Haven't gone through the whole thread....but how is the battery?
Just to throw more confusion out, anything funky with the clutch/trans?
But yeah it’s sounfing like head coming off is a good step soon.
But yeah it’s sounfing like head coming off is a good step soon.
Is it possible a single loose bolt is impacting the flywheel.? IDK if that's possible?
I’ve had a pressure plate partially let go & it was a strange one to troubleshoot...
- Thread starter
- #93
Was my initial thought too before I realized I was locked up. Had a bad ground. Battery is pushing strong. Less than a year old.
- Thread starter
- #94
Getting a feeling it might be up there, but still have some bearings to verify
- Thread starter
- #95
I wondered that too. Clutch was redone about 8 months ago. Was a bit of a mess as I didn't do it. The shop that did had the throw out bearing rubbing on the clutch fingers all the time and the bearing was squealing after 2 weeks. Fought with them and got them to drop everything again if I bought a new bearing. Been good ever since.
I was thinking along these lines the other day and actually wedged the pedal down with a jack stand and some wood and tried spinning the motor again with the pry bar, but same locked up behavior. I gotta see if there's anything else I can see up there without pulling it all apart.
BTW, trans shifts great. Has never given me a lick of trouble since I got the truck last year.
- Thread starter
- #96
How did you diagnose that...I have the flywheel cover off so I have pretty good access to the bottom. Will it move if I pry on it? I guess I might see a missing bolt?
Yes, disconnect the belt driven accessory.
Pull the starter motor.
After you pull the con rod caps, are you going to check the mains?
You might want to mentally prepare yourself for pulling the cam…
Pull the starter motor.
After you pull the con rod caps, are you going to check the mains?
You might want to mentally prepare yourself for pulling the cam…
In my instance I just dropped the trans as it was in a Datsun...and way easier than pulling the oil pan in the car.
Man, none of this computes with me. The fact that is stops in both directions has me at a loss. I previously thought foreign object in a cylinder - that would cause a hard stop in one direction at contact, and would also have to be something odd shaped to get through a valve and yet be large enough to stop a piston’s upward travel. Then you’d need two of them in separate cylinders to stop motion in the opposite direction. Not impossible, but astronomically unlikely?
Thought about something coming loose in the timing gear housing, but also would only likely cause a stop in a one direction. As well as something like a hex nut caught on the back side of a cam lobe. Would stop in one direction, but ought to be rollable in the opposite. And in any of these cases, while running and driving would have produced an unmistakable “bang” or “pop”.
Wish I could be more help, but I’m sitting by holding the popcorn bowl, awaiting to see what this boils down to.
Thought about something coming loose in the timing gear housing, but also would only likely cause a stop in a one direction. As well as something like a hex nut caught on the back side of a cam lobe. Would stop in one direction, but ought to be rollable in the opposite. And in any of these cases, while running and driving would have produced an unmistakable “bang” or “pop”.
Wish I could be more help, but I’m sitting by holding the popcorn bowl, awaiting to see what this boils down to.