1973Guppie
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- #161
one more pic......
Builds Guppie's FJ55 Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1973Guppie
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awesome!!!
Great work! Looks better than new!
Do you have to top coat the Zerorust, or is it OK to leave as the finish coat?
Do you have to top coat the Zerorust, or is it OK to leave as the finish coat?
Luke111
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Wow! that is F.ing nice
Lou
Lou
1973Guppie
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- #166
thanks guys, you just leave the ZR, no top coat needed, but you can if you want to.
Beautiful! Can't wait to see more pictures.
1973Guppie
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- #168
got the body on the frame and the garage all cleaned up! wow, what a difference, I can walk around in my garage now, now I am going to work this weekend on getting the body bolted in, firewall welded in, and the body panels fixed and bolted on. Pics to come soon.
forgot to mention that we did it with 3 people. This was a mistake. We almost rolled the thing in the garage. Thank god I had a marine on the front end and 2 wimps in back and not the other way around. We really should of had a min of 4, but we got it on there.
Noah
forgot to mention that we did it with 3 people. This was a mistake. We almost rolled the thing in the garage. Thank god I had a marine on the front end and 2 wimps in back and not the other way around. We really should of had a min of 4, but we got it on there.
Noah
Great job, Noah.
World of difference from when you started.
Can't wait to see it finished
World of difference from when you started.
Can't wait to see it finished
I need more pics.... looks great!!!
Did you try and get some sort of cavity wax in the areas you couldn't get paint into?
Looks awesome.
Looks awesome.
Last edited:
This whole thread is really inspiring, especially for those of us about to start our piggie restos. Thanks.
1973Guppie
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- #173
thanks guys, I am using some cavity wax type of stuff, HD anti rust from eastwood, it is great stuff, has an oily/waxy film left, I used it in the rockers and plan to use it up on the roof line and in the back corners once I get all the panels on. I also plan to use it on the lower part of the doors and tailgate. Also in the rear channel. I actually popped holes in the rockers underneath and in teh back channel, and foudn some nice plugs from eastwood to go there. This way I can drain and reapply the cavity wax in the future with littel effort.
Noah
Noah
1973Guppie
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- #174
Update
well, got the body back on the frame. Had to figure out the bolts to get the body back on the frame, I cut out the firewall section in order to change to a later section so I can run boosted brakes. pics show the part of the later firewall that I spot welded in. I used an x/y axis to locate the top left hole in the same spot as the firewall that it was pulled from. I am hopeful and confident that it should locate it correctly in the engine bay and not cause fittment problems. I kept the double plating that was in the area of the booster and clutch master. I popped some holes into the edges and spot welded it in there. Not the prettiest end result but it works and it will be nice to have a more modern brake system. I also shot the firewall with white zerorust and the zerorust clearcoat.
well, got the body back on the frame. Had to figure out the bolts to get the body back on the frame, I cut out the firewall section in order to change to a later section so I can run boosted brakes. pics show the part of the later firewall that I spot welded in. I used an x/y axis to locate the top left hole in the same spot as the firewall that it was pulled from. I am hopeful and confident that it should locate it correctly in the engine bay and not cause fittment problems. I kept the double plating that was in the area of the booster and clutch master. I popped some holes into the edges and spot welded it in there. Not the prettiest end result but it works and it will be nice to have a more modern brake system. I also shot the firewall with white zerorust and the zerorust clearcoat.
1973Guppie
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- #175
door fix
so the drivers side door hinge was completely ripped apart, a friend of mine gave me some advice on how to fix it properly, turns out that this area is double plated, meaning there is an inside rib and then the metal on top of it. So what I did was carefully cut out the top metal, rebend the rib back into shape and weld up it's crack (using the hole method at the ends of the crack), and then spot weld a larger patch on top. It came out great and is very stout.
so the drivers side door hinge was completely ripped apart, a friend of mine gave me some advice on how to fix it properly, turns out that this area is double plated, meaning there is an inside rib and then the metal on top of it. So what I did was carefully cut out the top metal, rebend the rib back into shape and weld up it's crack (using the hole method at the ends of the crack), and then spot weld a larger patch on top. It came out great and is very stout.
1973Guppie
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- #176
hood fix
so the hood was rusted under the front lip, I tried to bend up a long piece of metal for the front lip but it turned out the piece was too long for the crappy harbor freight angle bender and the angle was more rounded than a 45 degree. So, I decided to do the angle in 2 pieces, and got a better crisp angle. I am very happy with the end result. The brace in the front of the hood had to come off as well, so I could repair it and paint underneath. I treated it with phosphoric acid, and some zerorust. This stuff won't be rusing for awhile.
so the hood was rusted under the front lip, I tried to bend up a long piece of metal for the front lip but it turned out the piece was too long for the crappy harbor freight angle bender and the angle was more rounded than a 45 degree. So, I decided to do the angle in 2 pieces, and got a better crisp angle. I am very happy with the end result. The brace in the front of the hood had to come off as well, so I could repair it and paint underneath. I treated it with phosphoric acid, and some zerorust. This stuff won't be rusing for awhile.
1973Guppie
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- #177
final pics
and some final pics of the hood fix, came out great and is way sturdier than before. I did notice that the hood pops a bit and figured out that it is happening because the brace that goes across the hood is not glued down any longer. There are some little gobs of glue that hold that middle hood brace in place, anyone know where to get that stuff? I need to have that brace stay put or the hood pops down a bit. I am hoping that the body shop can fix that? is this a common thing that a body shop can do?
and some final pics of the hood fix, came out great and is way sturdier than before. I did notice that the hood pops a bit and figured out that it is happening because the brace that goes across the hood is not glued down any longer. There are some little gobs of glue that hold that middle hood brace in place, anyone know where to get that stuff? I need to have that brace stay put or the hood pops down a bit. I am hoping that the body shop can fix that? is this a common thing that a body shop can do?
1973Guppie
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- #178
a question
so a question for you pig guru's. As I have mentioned before, I got this truck in pieces. Once I get these panels primed, I am going to be putting them back on. I was unsure whether this piece should have this indent in it in stock form? This I believe is the cross piece at the front of the truck, just below the radiator where you can put in a turn handle to crank over the engine. I am wondering if this indent (bow) is stock or if I need to hammer this flat. From what I can tell, it looks stock and that it is supposed to be this way. Can anyone else confirm / deny this? Thank you, some pics.
I still have to repair the rear tailgate in a few small places. I plan to get that done tomm, along with prepping all the panels with phosphoric acid, and some sandpaper. Then to get everything coated interior with zerorust and coated on the outside with primer next weekend.
so a question for you pig guru's. As I have mentioned before, I got this truck in pieces. Once I get these panels primed, I am going to be putting them back on. I was unsure whether this piece should have this indent in it in stock form? This I believe is the cross piece at the front of the truck, just below the radiator where you can put in a turn handle to crank over the engine. I am wondering if this indent (bow) is stock or if I need to hammer this flat. From what I can tell, it looks stock and that it is supposed to be this way. Can anyone else confirm / deny this? Thank you, some pics.
I still have to repair the rear tailgate in a few small places. I plan to get that done tomm, along with prepping all the panels with phosphoric acid, and some sandpaper. Then to get everything coated interior with zerorust and coated on the outside with primer next weekend.
Mine looks like this too, but I always just assumed it was bent. I don't know the real answer, but would be curious to see what some of the piggy experts say.
