Nice!!!
I would say that is some awesome progress!!!
I would say that is some awesome progress!!!
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What are those for?
They look cool as hellll.
- Thread starter
- #4,263
Those are to block off the coolant flow in the heater hoses from going into the cab, mostly for the summer time, but also for now until I get the heat/AC unit installed.
Didn't you buy some fancy valve for that already or I'm I thinking about someone else that had a LS specific coolant shut off valve?
- Thread starter
- #4,266
There is an “H” block that was installed so the coolant can bypass from one side to the other in the case of shutting off the heater lines.
I thought the mind was the second thing to go?Mind da 1st tingdat
. Ya dunt bememeber. G nite
- Thread starter
- #4,272
Early March update -
Still working on taking care of all the loose ends I’ve left for myself like Easter eggs all over the place.
Then my local tuner guy sends me a text wanting to know if I can get my rig down to Tempe for a dyno-tune session early this month.
I’m certain that it’s not ready, but then immediately begin a running list in my mind of what would need to get taken care of to make it ready.
One of the items on the list is the warmer temp issues I’ve been noticing lately when it runs for a short amount of time. 210° was what it got to one of the last times I ran it. My mind went to thermostat, but after replacing it and doing some YouTube research, the whole steam port venting and trapped air is a real thing, which requires more than just filling the radiator, running it, and having air escape into the radiator. I have a steam port crossover on the front with the rears plugged. For $200 I could plumb a four corner air bleed system. Imagine my excitement at that prospect. There are some other methods of dealing with trapped air that I am going to exhaust before plunking down more money on another plumbing system to wrap around the top end. One was to disconnect the top radiator hose (or pipe in my case) and pour coolant into that , which probably took about 1/2 - 3/4 gallon. Afterwards, it ran up to 180° and stayed there for the 10 minutes I ran it. I’m going to do another operation soon to double check that it’s full.
Painted the underside of the hood, and then welded in the brace that was removed for straightening. Another coat of primer and it will be ready for paint topside.
Still running wiring. Was hoping that the early style turn signal switch would work by just running a dedicated brake light wire to the rear, but now thinking about wiring a pigtail for a trailer and towing, the extra wire would have to be compensated for, so now I’d just rather track down a new turn signal switch that runs the brake light circuit through the rear turn signal wiring.
Still working on taking care of all the loose ends I’ve left for myself like Easter eggs all over the place.
Then my local tuner guy sends me a text wanting to know if I can get my rig down to Tempe for a dyno-tune session early this month.
I’m certain that it’s not ready, but then immediately begin a running list in my mind of what would need to get taken care of to make it ready.
One of the items on the list is the warmer temp issues I’ve been noticing lately when it runs for a short amount of time. 210° was what it got to one of the last times I ran it. My mind went to thermostat, but after replacing it and doing some YouTube research, the whole steam port venting and trapped air is a real thing, which requires more than just filling the radiator, running it, and having air escape into the radiator. I have a steam port crossover on the front with the rears plugged. For $200 I could plumb a four corner air bleed system. Imagine my excitement at that prospect. There are some other methods of dealing with trapped air that I am going to exhaust before plunking down more money on another plumbing system to wrap around the top end. One was to disconnect the top radiator hose (or pipe in my case) and pour coolant into that , which probably took about 1/2 - 3/4 gallon. Afterwards, it ran up to 180° and stayed there for the 10 minutes I ran it. I’m going to do another operation soon to double check that it’s full.
Painted the underside of the hood, and then welded in the brace that was removed for straightening. Another coat of primer and it will be ready for paint topside.
Still running wiring. Was hoping that the early style turn signal switch would work by just running a dedicated brake light wire to the rear, but now thinking about wiring a pigtail for a trailer and towing, the extra wire would have to be compensated for, so now I’d just rather track down a new turn signal switch that runs the brake light circuit through the rear turn signal wiring.
You are getting it done. Always inspired with your work.
So, are you gonna be able to dyno it?
- Thread starter
- #4,275
At some point. My guy (Mike W), said that he rents the dyno for the day and gets like 8 vehicles tuned out. It’s something he does periodically as the need arises.
- Thread starter
- #4,276
Thanks Bill! Glad to have you hanging in there with me through all these years of building.
If I remember right, when I bought my 5.3 from BD Engines, the steam port in front was just a loop. After I learned how important it was, I ran it up the rad. I'm not sure about the rear vent, guessing I didn't even realize it was there, something to check out. My temp. rarely gets to 200, only times are out West (hot) or in the mountains. One time at 4 corners with the a/c running it hit 210.
That engine bay is looking really good!
That engine bay is looking really good!
A little slim on the pictures!
- Thread starter
- #4,280
I have some ramps at the house I was going to wheel up on and give that a try.
Option 2 a guy I work with has a vacuum setup.
Priced one on the MAC truck today - $400
Might as well get the four-corner setup for that money. Or if I had more reasons to own one….
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