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GM Tie rod end taper insert.@SebBuilt, how did you go about reversing the taper in your steering arms?
Is there a difference between a 60 vs 80 series steering box’s? And where do you buy the 80 series pitman arm? I want to do this to my 1982 40 as the power steering is like driving a worn out land yacht, and yes all parts are new, it just sucks. TIA
I'm theory it should definitely exaggerate bump steer by putting the drag link at compound angles. That being said it is not a given... The proof is in the driving.I had sag steering for years and didn't care for the "horizontal" angle. I think somewhere i read an angle like that can contribute to bump steer, but it wasn't the reason why i changed to scout steering. I built a tre over steering arm y link. It's a dana frt end, built b4 alloy birfields were available, and a 4" lift. I think you need a drop pitman arm of some sort and put the box in the conventional location for the mod. The 3rd pic in post #122 is not realistic, bolt the axle to the spring and see what happens.
When i setup my 2nd 40 for scout steering i didn't want it set it up with the one suspension in mind. Thru the years you or someone else might be using something else.
I'm thinking more and more I agree after cycling everything, it would be a different story on links. Stoked to get so close here.The reality is you can’t really put the box anywhere else on a regular 40.
It’s completely fine. It transforms how they drive. I’ve done at least 10 of them now I think
Looking closer, it seems like you have a considerable amount more clearance from your tie rod to the frame than I do here.This is how mine turned out.
View attachment 4150124
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I have a 4" lift and 17" rims with the right offset, and flat high steering arms with over sized trunnions and bearings, and was going for as much clearance to the tire rods as I could get. Because I am doing a Cummins R2.8 repower I also had to move the steering box away from the frame 1/2" so the bolt on the FJ80 steering column u-joint would clear the water pump inlet.
- Some great stuff here. I appreciate y'all chiming in. This is certainly tricky with
Looking closer, it seems like you have a considerable amount more clearance from your tie rod to the frame than I do here.
I looked and compared the dimensions of the aqualu frame on their site and the clearance is pretty tight due to the lack of a bump in the frame, their site shows them in an overlapped drawing view but it's really close with a pro Comp 31252 spring pack.
Doing more fitment checks.
View attachment 4150930
Steering clearances
View attachment 4150931
Full lock
View attachment 4150933
The spring compression at the perch would be 3.5" under these conditions.
View attachment 4150934
Wheel travel is 5" up to this extreme condition. Probably more than any realistic situation.
9" under the tire at the full compression shown and 4" with the tire sitting down on the leaf with the jack pushing up on the opposing end of the axle and hanger completely opened up.
View attachment 4150936
Jacking up the axle without it bolted to the springs on both sides is pointless. The best the spring will compress is if the spring becomes flat, and that's not likely going to happen. Some arch should remain so the spring doesn't invert. The bump stop should to stop it, if its positioned correctly. If not, the spring will stop compressing at some point and start to lift the tire on the other side off the ground. I can see the straight frame rail could be problematic. The white one has a modified 4" lift, that's fairly flexible and is likely on the bump stop . The red one has a newish 4" Skyjacker suspension and is probably not on the bump stop, the spring has overcome the weight of the vehicle. The red 40 is at the point of lifting the passenger tire if it was driven further up the tree. The white one will drive up the tree another 2 feet or so without lifting a tire.
- Some great stuff here. I appreciate y'all chiming in. This is certainly tricky with
Looking closer, it seems like you have a considerable amount more clearance from your tie rod to the frame than I do here.
I looked and compared the dimensions of the aqualu frame on their site and the clearance is pretty tight due to the lack of a bump in the frame, their site shows them in an overlapped drawing view but it's really close with a pro Comp 31252 spring pack.
Doing more fitment checks.
View attachment 4150930
Steering clearances
View attachment 4150931
Full lock
View attachment 4150933
The spring compression at the perch would be 3.5" under these conditions.
View attachment 4150934
Wheel travel is 5" up to this extreme condition. Probably more than any realistic situation.
9" under the tire at the full compression shown and 4" with the tire sitting down on the leaf with the jack pushing up on the opposing end of the axle and hanger completely opened up.
View attachment 4150936
Jacking up the axle without it bolted to the springs on both sides is pointless. The best the spring will compress is if the spring becomes flat, and that's not likely going to happen. Some arch should remain so the spring doesn't invert. The bump stop should to stop it, if its positioned correctly. If not, the spring will stop compressing at some point and start to lift the tire on the other side off the ground. I can see the straight frame rail could be problematic. The white one has a modified 4" lift, that's fairly flexible and is likely on the bump stop . The red one has a newish 4" Skyjacker suspension and is probably not on the bump stop, the spring has overcome the weight of the vehicle. The red 40 is at the point of lifting the passenger tire if it was driven further up the tree. The white one will drive up the tree another 2 feet or so without lifting a tire.
View attachment 4151149View attachment 4151150View attachment 4151151
The other reason I have more clearance at the TREs is because I have IFS wheel hubs that moved the rimes 1.5" out so that the track matches the FJ60 rear axle. I repurposed the original wheel hubs on the rear axle when converted to a FF axle.
- Some great stuff here. I appreciate y'all chiming in. This is certainly tricky with
Looking closer, it seems like you have a considerable amount more clearance from your tie rod to the frame than I do here.
I looked and compared the dimensions of the aqualu frame on their site and the clearance is pretty tight due to the lack of a bump in the frame, their site shows them in an overlapped drawing view but it's really close with a pro Comp 31252 spring pack.
Doing more fitment checks.
View attachment 4150930
Steering clearances
View attachment 4150931
Full lock
View attachment 4150933
The spring compression at the perch would be 3.5" under these conditions.
View attachment 4150934
Wheel travel is 5" up to this extreme condition. Probably more than any realistic situation.
9" under the tire at the full compression shown and 4" with the tire sitting down on the leaf with the jack pushing up on the opposing end of the axle and hanger completely opened up.
View attachment 4150936
Right on! I was moreso referring to the tie rod link clearance to the frame where there could possible be a clash condition.The other reason I have more clearance at the TREs is because I have IFS wheel hubs that moved the rimes 1.5" out so that the track matches the FJ60 rear axle. I repurposed the original wheel hubs on the rear axle when converted to a FF axle.
I did add photos. Scroll up. I have other photos on my phone.Right on! I was moreso referring to the tie rod link clearance to the frame where there could possible be a clash condition.
I appreciate some pictures to refer to. Very helpful!
I completed a Scout II P/S conversion not that long ago. It's a slightly different flavor of the same conversion. I'd highly recommend it over stock, and I far prefer it over traditional Saginaw steering conversions. That said, the only power steered 40 I've ever driven much is mine with the Scout II box... but it's perfect and feels like stock, well boosted steering.I have a 4" lift and 17" rims with the right offset, and flat high steering arms with over sized trunnions and bearings, and was going for as much clearance to the tire rods as I could get. Because I am doing a Cummins R2.8 repower I also had to move the steering box away from the frame 1/2" so the bolt on the FJ80 steering column u-joint would clear the water pump inlet.
View attachment 4150962
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I jacked up the DS to check frame flex to make sure that the bolt in the U-joint would not hit and had to stop before the TREs would hit. I have longer bump stops to keep the TRE from hitting the nut on the sector shaft.
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The things you find when you go through the steps of the build.