Good looking rig. Mine is the same color, but a little more sun-kissed then your's is.
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- Thread starter
- #22
Installed marlin gears on the pickup and it inspired me to finally tackle the hf2av input shaft seal leak between the transmission and transfer case.
Night 1
Night 1
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- Thread starter
- #23
All back together, no leaks. New transmission output and tcase input, speedo o ring.
The transfer case input seal was damaged
The transfer case input seal was damaged
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- Thread starter
- #24
Putting on the miles this summer.
Running trouble and leak free
Running trouble and leak free
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- Thread starter
- #25
Picked up a snomaster classic 72L dual zone.
Dual battery 12v and fridge slide are next
Dual battery 12v and fridge slide are next
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- Thread starter
- #26
Working through the dual battery setup:
3FE OEM tray
Dayco Flex hose 81051
Blue sea 7622
Blue sea 300A terminal fuses
Blue sea 285 100A circuit breaker
Blue sea ST Blade fuse 12 circuit buss
1/0 gauge wire
Homemade washer relocation brackets
Trying to decide where to mount the 7622 and I think I've decided on putting it up front where the horns are located. Is there anything i'm overlooking for why others have not chosen to mount it there as opposed to attaching it to the battery box or fender rail?
3FE OEM tray
Dayco Flex hose 81051
Blue sea 7622
Blue sea 300A terminal fuses
Blue sea 285 100A circuit breaker
Blue sea ST Blade fuse 12 circuit buss
1/0 gauge wire
Homemade washer relocation brackets
Trying to decide where to mount the 7622 and I think I've decided on putting it up front where the horns are located. Is there anything i'm overlooking for why others have not chosen to mount it there as opposed to attaching it to the battery box or fender rail?
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- Thread starter
- #27
Made a bracket for mounting the 7622 to the battery hold down. Made another bracket for the 285 100 circuit breaker. Purchased an interstate 27 deep cycle.
Working on getting 1/0 gauge wires laid out, cut and crimped. Then need to run wire inside and mount the fuse panel
Working on getting 1/0 gauge wires laid out, cut and crimped. Then need to run wire inside and mount the fuse panel
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Nice work. I don't know why that Wenona hanging so far fore and aft of the factory racks bugs me so much, I want to climb into your photos and put Yakima 1a's and bars on there to get the tie down points further apart. You know, because that canoe weighs so much.
I know you're already past this point, but the ACR up between the horns seems ok until you think about sloppy coolant fills.
I keep marveling at how clean other peoples trucks look when they don't have the crap formerly chrome door ding strips on them like mine does.
I know you're already past this point, but the ACR up between the horns seems ok until you think about sloppy coolant fills.
I keep marveling at how clean other peoples trucks look when they don't have the crap formerly chrome door ding strips on them like mine does.
- Thread starter
- #29
Heat started to smell like burning coolant and found drips above the cats so I tackled the rear heater bypass
sites.google.com
Also finished running 4 gauge to the rear
Rear Heater Delete Hose - Land Cruiser Products - LCP
Land Cruiser Products Land Cruiser Parts
Also finished running 4 gauge to the rear
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JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
Looking good! I need to run wire to the back of mine yet too.
- Thread starter
- #31
2021 update in the coming weeks
Birf rebuild with bearings
Slee extended brake lines
EBC yellow pads
EBC slotted and dimpled rotors
555 tie rod kit
SCS F5 17x9 - 38 in matte bronze
Yokohama geolandar MT g003 in 35x12.5R17
Birfield teardown in progress, no soup. The top roller bearing was dimpled and steering the knuckle was like a 30 tooth ratchet and the wheel bearing preload was loose.
Birf rebuild with bearings
Slee extended brake lines
EBC yellow pads
EBC slotted and dimpled rotors
555 tie rod kit
SCS F5 17x9 - 38 in matte bronze
Yokohama geolandar MT g003 in 35x12.5R17
Birfield teardown in progress, no soup. The top roller bearing was dimpled and steering the knuckle was like a 30 tooth ratchet and the wheel bearing preload was loose.
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- Thread starter
- #32
Finishing soon...
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- Thread starter
- #33
Summer 2021 236,700 miles
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- Thread starter
- #34
A 9 dollar seal leak turned into Sumo 10% under drive and 3:1 low range gears sitting on the bench waiting to be installed. Free time is consumed learning Fusion 360 CAM amd getting my CNC mill up and running
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- Thread starter
- #35
Under the knife for gear install. Delayed by getting my pickup running on megasquirt and finishing my welding table
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Damn that is a good looking truck!!!
- Thread starter
- #37
End of night 2. Transfer case out and getting into it.
Anyone ever see a cracked (not sure what to call this) rear output shaft bearing shim retainer?
Anyone ever see a cracked (not sure what to call this) rear output shaft bearing shim retainer?
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- Thread starter
- #38
36132-60050 on order. Output shaft retainer
Gears out
Gears out
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PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
This is great stuff! Love the BWCA pics. Stoked to hear impressions on the sumo gears.
Dang. Seeing peoples transfer cases all torn open makes me anxious.
The more sets of STs F5 wheels I see, the more I like them. Simple, not too flashy, just nice. I'm a fan of minimal logos on stuff; If the Rays/Volk TE37x didn't have stuff machined all over them they would be a wheel I could talk myself into.
The more sets of STs F5 wheels I see, the more I like them. Simple, not too flashy, just nice. I'm a fan of minimal logos on stuff; If the Rays/Volk TE37x didn't have stuff machined all over them they would be a wheel I could talk myself into.