Engine swap in some little village in Sierra Leone!

[crushers]

actually, that idle up might be nice to leave there. 12 or 24V, if 24V it will just take a bit longer to activate. (that is my understanding).
if you are idling for some reason, flip a toggle and the idle comes up as well as the oil pressure.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Does the same apply on the solenoid on the fuel pump? 12v will still activate it or do I need a 12v solenoid to get the fuel going?

It would be a simple matter to have the idle up work with the A/C by running a jumper from the A/C clutch to the idle up solenoid.

 

[crushers]

yes, you can use the 24V shut down on a 12V system ... not the other way around.

 

[cruiser_guy]

yes, you can use the 24V shut down on a 12V system ... not the other way around.

Great!!

Do you know if any of the old EDIC wires will provide the right signal for the solenoid or do I simply need a wire off the ignition (hot at start and run) to make it go?

Here's a photo of the A/C belt mis-alignment. I think I have a source for a new A/C clutch assembly to take care of this.

 

[crushers]

any wire that is live when key is on and dead when key is off should work...

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Charles:

You look to be on the right track here.

High pressure hydraulic fittings are often brazed onto the pipe. That's how we did the PS lines on Dad's 40. No problems there.

I don't think there are big differences between brazing in the US and Africa, so I'd try it. But, those were fittings designed to be brazed into the ends of virgin hydraulic pipe.

Dan

 

[cruiser_guy]

What are the thoughts on the low oil switch on the Dyna (level of oil in the pan) vs. the one on the Land Cruiser (pressure dependent)?

I need a location for oil supply to the altenator vacuum pump and I was going to use the Land Cruiser oil pressure switch location to provide oil supply to the vacuum pump and then mount the the Dyna oil level switch on the Land Cruiser oil pan to operate the low oil. I expect I'll need to do some sort of relay or perhaps if I find a suitable EDIC wire it might provide the function I need/want.

What are the thoughts on redrilling the oil pan to suit a different bolt pattern? The later 3B block has less bolts on the pan than the old 3B. I'd like to use the Land Cruiser pan because it doesn't leak (it was new 8 years ago) and won't interfere with the front axle in articulation.

Dan, I think I got the power steering worked out. I got a pressure hose off the old lines that will work. It's actually a double flare so hopefully my flaring tool will work on that large pipe. If so it's easy!

 

[lostmarbles]

..........12 or 24V, if 24V it will just take a bit longer to activate. (that is my understanding).......

yes, you can use the 24V shut down on a 12V system ... not the other way around.

Are you sure Wayne?

(I wouldn't use any 24V solenoids/coils on a 12V system and I wouldn't expect them to work if I were to do it.)

 

[lostmarbles]

What are the thoughts on the low oil switch on the Dyna (level of oil in the pan) vs. the one on the Land Cruiser (pressure dependent)?

Well assuming you're just going to operate a warning buzzer/light with it now (and throw away all your EDIC system) then I have a preference for the pressure switch on the basis that a competent owner will never neglect maintaining the oil level, will drive sensibly, and will be observant to unusual sounds/smells etc (that may be caused by a sudden oil leak).

I need a location for oil supply to the altenator vacuum pump and I was going to use the Land Cruiser oil pressure switch location to provide oil supply to the vacuum pump and then mount the the Dyna oil level switch on the Land Cruiser oil pan to operate the low oil. I expect I'll need to do some sort of relay or perhaps if I find a suitable EDIC wire it might provide the function I need/want. ...

No relay needed if the switch is just to operate a light and/or tiny buzzer.

Swapping the oil source shouldn't be a problem. However I seem to recall a flow restriction somewhere in the feed to my vacuum pump. So just make sure you don't accidentally eliminate that (assuming my memory is correct and that there REALLY is one).

...What are the thoughts on redrilling the oil pan to suit a different bolt pattern? The later 3B block has less bolts on the pan than the old 3B. I'd like to use the Land Cruiser pan because it doesn't leak (it was new 8 years ago) and won't interfere with the front axle in articulation...

I think the old sump needs ALL those bolts that it had. And I don't like the idea of drilling extra holes in the rim.

Perhaps check whether driveshaft/diff clearance really is an issue, then if it is, trial fit the old sump.

You'll likely find the decision will be made for you by the level of difficulty in getting the old sump to fit the new engine.

My 2 1/2 cents worth anyway... (The extra half is because I always waffle on with a bit extra. )

 

[crushers]

well, i transplanted a 24V PZ into my 12V truck.
i made a call to Lowenbrau and asked him, he mentioned it might work so i tried it.
yes, the 24V fuel shut off works on 12V.

 

[fjbj40]

I am also using a 24 volt glow plug relay with my 12 volt system and it works flawlessly.

Daryl

 

[lostmarbles]

24V fuel shut off works on 12V.

I am also using a 24 volt glow plug relay with my 12 volt system and it works flawlessly.

Daryl

Okay ... I get the message.

But years of working on electrical stuff (mainly back when I was in refrigeration/airconditioning) still rings warning bells for me.

1/2 voltage = much less magnet-pull = much less reliabity-of-operation

So a double and a and whatever else.

 

[crushers]

 

[cruiser_guy]

Looking at the flare needed on the power steering pressure line.

The wall thickness on this pipe looks massive! Can it even be double flared? Will I do any damage if I cinch the flaring tool down here? I realize that I have an imperial flaring tool and metric pipe so it's a "go with what you got" operation. The other problem is even though the flaring tool is hard to close over the pipe the corresponding 3/8" die won't go in easily either so it's got to be significantly thicker wall than standard.

If a double flare is not possible is a single flare enough given the pipe wall thickness?

If I really need a metric flaring tool let me know and I'll try and bother the mine shop for it.

This is just a small section of the power steering line off the Dyna engine.

 

[canucksafari]

That is thick! I did a double flare for a VW brake line with an imperial tool. It worked without leaking. If you have a small pipe bender you could consider getting a thinner wall line, like a brake line, and making up new line. Or is the nearest place with lengths of brake line hours away?

Edit: Just reread your post. I'd go and pester the mine shop and just do it right there.

 

[roalco]

A properly brazed joint will be a tight sliding fit with the brazing material in shear so no worries about strength.
You won't be able to double flare that line, but if you want to single flare it and see if it works, use heat! Try annealing the steel line first, to soften it, but if that doesn't work you'll have to clamp it in the die, die plates in a vise and try to get the tube at least red hot with a torch, then quickly flare it.. Have fun....
I used brazed joints when adapting my PS system to rum a hydraulic winch, no problems.
Good luck!!!

 

[seapotato]

Years ago I did gm ps conversion on a 3b cruiser, ran into an issue where I had to flare the pressure line, and my little flaring tool couldn't handle it.

I wasn't ~quite~ as isolated as you when I had the issue, but it was a sunday, and getting everything to a hydraulic shop was going to be a pain in the ass.


The tool that worked for me, was a ball peen hammer. Yes, barbaric and haywire sounding, but it worked, and it didn't leak for at least 5 years.

Just sayin...

Looking at the flare needed on the power steering pressure line.

The wall thickness on this pipe looks massive! Can it even be double flared? Will I do any damage if I cinch the flaring tool down here? I realize that I have an imperial flaring tool and metric pipe so it's a "go with what you got" operation. The other problem is even though the flaring tool is hard to close over the pipe the corresponding 3/8" die won't go in easily either so it's got to be significantly thicker wall than standard.

If a double flare is not possible is a single flare enough given the pipe wall thickness?

If I really need a metric flaring tool let me know and I'll try and bother the mine shop for it.

This is just a small section of the power steering line off the Dyna engine.

 

[fjbj40]

The line on my 40 was flared with a single flare and has not leaked yet.

Daryl

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Years ago I did gm ps conversion on a 3b cruiser, ran into an issue where I had to flare the pressure line, and my little flaring tool couldn't handle it.

I wasn't ~quite~ as isolated as you when I had the issue, but it was a sunday, and getting everything to a hydraulic shop was going to be a pain in the ass.


The tool that worked for me, was a ball peen hammer. Yes, barbaric and haywire sounding, but it worked, and it didn't leak for at least 5 years.

Just sayin...

Only you could pull that off Ryan! Too funny.

Good luck Charles, keep the good work going. You could always braze the old fitting to the new line (somehow) Silver solder is another option and is stronger. Lots of silver in Africa.... not too sure about silver solder though. lol.

 

[cruiser_guy]

On the power steering end of things, I need a flare at the end of that thick pipe. I'll see if the mine can assist. I'll also be asking them for a 1" plate to properly space out the steering box so it clears the power steering pump.

On another issue. I need one more pressurized oil line for the altenator vacuum pump. Is this connection OK or not? I do have a BSPT fitting in my toolbox! It's amazing what one needs and you can find in the tool box after a few years.