Engine swap in some little village in Sierra Leone!
- Thread starter cruiser_guy
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- #82
Another question on the oil supply. Is a barbed fitting enough to stay connected with the oil pressure? The old alternator oil line had the ring type connections so I'll need to clip one of those off but I'm reluctant without knowing if the resulting end will hold the oil pressure.
Thoughts?
The throttle connection is in progress today. Hopefully if I am successful I'll have some photos tomorrow. I think it will be pretty slick!
Thoughts?
The throttle connection is in progress today. Hopefully if I am successful I'll have some photos tomorrow. I think it will be pretty slick!
Barbed fittings is what comes with remote oil cooler and remote by-pass filter kits. I can't see why it would not hold as long as you use good quality clamps and hose. Here is a pic of a Derale oil cooler kit from Summit Racing. You can either use solid line or the barbed fittings with hose.
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- #85
Wayne, what is the recommendation then since the 3BII doesn't have the oil connections than the original 3B does and the oil filter housing is not transferable that I can see?
All available oil pressure connections use the BSPT thread and not the larger thread of the hollow bolt of the altenator oil supply. I could re-tap one of the small plugs for the larger bolt but then I'd still need to find a way to seal the copper washer of the ring connection against the block.
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- #87
Sounds like a job for a machine shop. I'll need to see just how much I can beg of the mine.
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- #88
The mine shops heavy duty flaring tool got a flare on the heavy tubing. I didn't want to try a double flare and bust the mines tools so I gave it a single flare. It still took a 24" adjustable wrench to turn the die into the tube!
I figure since it is power steering and some pretty heavy tubing the single flare is likely fine. If it fails it won't be a major safety issue anyways. It'll just be some ultra heavy steering.
They are cutting and drilling the 1" plate spacer for the steering box and I'll pick that up in the morning.
Then I'll need to see if I can sweet talk them into fabbing a special fitting for the vacuum pump oil supply
I figure since it is power steering and some pretty heavy tubing the single flare is likely fine. If it fails it won't be a major safety issue anyways. It'll just be some ultra heavy steering.
They are cutting and drilling the 1" plate spacer for the steering box and I'll pick that up in the morning.
Then I'll need to see if I can sweet talk them into fabbing a special fitting for the vacuum pump oil supply
Nice! You must be quite the sweet talker.
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- #91
We've just about got the throttle linkage worked out. I've been spending some time thinking about it all and how to make it work now that the factory parts are discontinued.
I've made a bracket to carry the throttle linkage that normally resides on the firewall and turn it 90 degrees to make it project to the front of the truck. Now the throttle cable can run down to the rotary pump. This also required a pivot to connect the pump and cable so another bracket was made up that mounts off the intake manifold and uses the pivot from the Dyna intake butterfly valve. Looks like it should work pretty decent. You can see the oil slick on the firewall left over when the engine blew a hole in the side.
We hope to make up the primer/filter bracket and the bracket for the power steering reservoir tomorrow. This bracket will also carry the throttle cable to hold it in position to line up with the pivot.
Here's another question for those familiar with the rotary pump 3B. Which of the three wires from the injection pump is the one for the fuel solenoid? I'm guessing two are for a tach sensor and one is for the fuel solenoid. I have the following wires coming from the connector, a yellow/red spots, a black/red/brown spots and a black/brown spots. The fuel solenoid has a green wire before the connnector that has been messed with already so I don't want to beat on it too hard and be screwed with a bad solenoid.
I've made a bracket to carry the throttle linkage that normally resides on the firewall and turn it 90 degrees to make it project to the front of the truck. Now the throttle cable can run down to the rotary pump. This also required a pivot to connect the pump and cable so another bracket was made up that mounts off the intake manifold and uses the pivot from the Dyna intake butterfly valve. Looks like it should work pretty decent. You can see the oil slick on the firewall left over when the engine blew a hole in the side.
We hope to make up the primer/filter bracket and the bracket for the power steering reservoir tomorrow. This bracket will also carry the throttle cable to hold it in position to line up with the pivot.
Here's another question for those familiar with the rotary pump 3B. Which of the three wires from the injection pump is the one for the fuel solenoid? I'm guessing two are for a tach sensor and one is for the fuel solenoid. I have the following wires coming from the connector, a yellow/red spots, a black/red/brown spots and a black/brown spots. The fuel solenoid has a green wire before the connnector that has been messed with already so I don't want to beat on it too hard and be screwed with a bad solenoid.
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- #94
lostmarbles said:Maybe these pics (on testing the fuel solenoid and tach sensor) help with that:
Well two wires had about 800 ohms across them and the other wire was significantly different so I assume that to be the solenoid. We'll know if that is correct when we try starting the truck! I simply connected it to the "M" terminal for the old EDIC motor. I figure that terminal had to provide power for the EDIC motor to run the old engine so it should have continuous power when starting and running.
And if I'm reading it right, the solenoid wire is the "odd-man-out" in the way the wires enter the back of the connector.
As far as the M terminal is concerned. .... I'm not sure. But I guess it is a simple matter to see whether you get power there in various key positions.
I guess it needs power when the key is in "start" and "run" but not in any other position.
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- #98
While I work out the connection for the oil feed for the altenator vacuum pump I'm going to have to use the altenator I got to make the Dyna 12v. It is beleived that this is an altenator from a mini-truck but I have no way to know for sure.
Does anyone know what these various pins are? The terminal designations in my "B" engine manual are "S", "L", "IG" and "B". I'm 99% sure the threaded post is "B" but which of these pins are the other three terminals?
Does anyone know what these various pins are? The terminal designations in my "B" engine manual are "S", "L", "IG" and "B". I'm 99% sure the threaded post is "B" but which of these pins are the other three terminals?
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- #100
Decided to tackle the oil pan/front drive clearance issues with the Dyna oil pan. When you look at the side by side pictures you can see the "wings" on the Dyna oil pan that could interfere with the front drive shaft. Talked to our welder again and he figured he could cut and remake the oil pan to work. I pulled the Dyna pan and compared it to the Land Cruiser pan and other than the front timing cover the bolts are identical. I decided to use the Land Cruiser pan as the base for our custom oil pan.
We lopped off the front of the Dyna pan as well as the oil level switch location on the Dyna pan. The Land Cruiser pan front was also lopped off and so far we've reattached the Dyna front to the Land Cruiser pan so I now have an oil pan that will bolt up AND clear the front drive shaft.
Tomorrow we'll weld on the oil return for the turbo (I had been using the altenator return for the turbo as well for the past 8 years without issues but the Dyna engine doesn't have provision for this). I'm also going to install the float switch on the oil pan and see if I can wire that in some how for a low oil cut out safety. Maybe I can run the solenoid power through it or something. I'll need to look more into how it works.
We lopped off the front of the Dyna pan as well as the oil level switch location on the Dyna pan. The Land Cruiser pan front was also lopped off and so far we've reattached the Dyna front to the Land Cruiser pan so I now have an oil pan that will bolt up AND clear the front drive shaft.
Tomorrow we'll weld on the oil return for the turbo (I had been using the altenator return for the turbo as well for the past 8 years without issues but the Dyna engine doesn't have provision for this). I'm also going to install the float switch on the oil pan and see if I can wire that in some how for a low oil cut out safety. Maybe I can run the solenoid power through it or something. I'll need to look more into how it works.