Engine swap in some little village in Sierra Leone!

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Cruiser Guy... I haven't checked this in a while but I saw you needed some 1/8 BSPT to 4AN (37 deg JIC) fittings. I have some new steel ones running around if you need a few...

PM me and I can ship them out!

Kraig

 

[cruiser_guy]

Cruiser Guy... I haven't checked this in a while but I saw you needed some 1/8 BSPT to 4AN (37 deg JIC) fittings. I have some new steel ones running around if you need a few...

PM me and I can ship them out!

Kraig

Kraig,

What I need is an adaptor to go from the 1/8" BSPT plugs that are found in the block oil passages to the hose that supplies oil to the altenator mounted vacuum pump. The vacuum pump uses a hose with ring type ends not a flare type connection at all. Your 2B likely has the same hose connection for the altenator vacuum pump.

I have a 1/8" BSPT barbed fitting but Wayne's comment on blowing out the oil if the hose pops off doesn't have me feeling too comfy using it. That's beside the fact that I don't know if the fitting will fit the hose that has the ring already on both ends of it (I'd have to cut one of the ring ends off to find out and then I'd be too late if it were wrong).

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

The one I have is a threaded 4an on the other side... It an option if you can source the hose (I used 1/8 stainless braided for turbo feed).

What is this feeding again? (On a phone so can't write and read at the same time).

K

 

[cruiser_guy]

The one I have is a threaded 4an on the other side... It an option if you can source the hose (I used 1/8 stainless braided for turbo feed).

What is this feeding again? (On a phone so can't write and read at the same time).

K

Kraig, your post got me thinking outside the box again. I ordered up a custom hose, one end with a banjo fitting for the altenator vacuum pump and the other with the 4an flare and both BSPT and BSPP fittings with the flare for the block and it should be here late next week with some folks who are coming out here. By then the rest of the install/swap should be finished.

Today we'll be finishing up getting the oil pan all sorted out with the bungs for the turbo and altenator oil return. I've also got to assist the neighbor with a leaky diff seal on his HDJ105.

Almost there!

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Nice Charles! I hate using adapters as it is just too many places for leaks to occur. Once I found the bspt fittings I felt much better. Some kits make you stack three adapters before you attach a hose. Ugh.

K

 

[cruiser_guy]

Got the oil pan modified to fit. One drain back fitting for the turbo and one for the altenator vacuum pump and of course the modified front end for the timing cover of the Dyna. Rinsed it out with diesel a good 1/2 dozen times to get rid of the filings and other crap from welding and grinding. Plugged up the Mr. Funnel filter twice with filings in the process. Tomorrow or Monday I'll install the oil pan once it's had some time to get dry so the silicone will seal well. The Dyna never had a gasket between the block and the pan and from what I can find out that was the way it was from factory.

Got the neighbors HDJ105 fixed up too.

 

[crushers]

from 1985 onward Toyota didn't use a gasket between the oil pan and the block just oil resistant silicone

 

[cruiser_guy]

I've got a tube of Permatex 268 that I hope is still good (it's never been opened) to make the seal with.

It's one of the things you toss in the tool box before heading out on these journeys far from home.

 

[roalco]

from 1985 onward Toyota didn't use a gasket between the oil pan and the block just oil resistant silicone

The pan can be swapped but the older ones ( with gaskets) have reinforced bolting flanges and slightly longer studs. FYI, just in case anyone is mixing and matching.

 

[cruiser_guy]

The Permatex is hard so I need to find some automotive silicone locally here.

Anyone have suggestions of the best gasket maker/automotive silicone to prevent oil leaks on the pan? Permatex has more than a dozen choices on the website and I don't know what might be on offer when I go looking tomorrow or the next day.

Next question, we're on well water which is quite hard (has a lot of minerals). Should I use distilled water to mix with the coolant? I do have probably 4 gallons of distilled water for the solar batteries but I can always get more next time I'm in town.

 

[crushers]

distilled would be a good idea, we have heavy iron in our water as well.
i won't drink it or use it in the rad.

if the silicone is oil safe then use it, i use the black stuff with good results.
remember you do not want that s*** getting into the pan so make the inner line small and the outer line a bit heavier ... when you squeeze it when you clamp the pan down, you want the excess on the outside of the pan, let it dry solid then just peal the excess off with your fingers ... much easier than trying to clean while wet.

also, when i install the oilpan, i bring each bolt up till the pan touches the block all teh way around. then i give each bolt 1/4 turn to tighten ... works well for me.
let dry completely before firing up the engine.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I got the rest of the hoses today including the custom pressure hose from Oregon. Fired it up and after getting the air out of the lines it runs fine. My throttle adaptation seems to work at least standing still. I simply wired the butterfly open so if I get a runaway I can slip the wire off and close the butterfly and hopefully stall the engine. I think I might have an air leak due to a slightly too large fuel line that I can't clamp tight enough. The primer pump/filter head is for a Mazda van, the most popular local transportation/mini-bus/poda-poda but the lines are smaller than the injection pump lines on the engine. I might see if I can find a primer pump/filter head for a Dyna. It needed a little extra cranking after sitting for some time and it stalled after 5 minutes or so of running. I also have no contact on the clutch! The throw is not correct. I'm going to try adjusting the rod at the slave but failing that I'll need to slowly trim the rod till contact is possible.

Wayne, earlier you said something about this being a 13B-T flywheel with the 8 bolts rather than 6. Does the 13B-T use a different clutch slave too (specifically the rod from the slave to the clutch fork)? Answered my own question, yes, they are different. Mine is adjustable the other is not.

Now, how much to start with in trimming my rod on the slave cylinder?

 

[crushers]

what you want is the clutch fork to have NO pressure on it when the clutch is not depressed. if you have pressure on the fork then the idler (release) bearing will be spinning. that bearing is not designed to be spun constantly, it is designed to engage and disengage to shift gears or to shift into neutral.
(this is why newbie manual tranny drivers can sometimes wear out the bearing in a short period, they hold the clutch engaged at stop lights, heating up the bearing.)
you also want to make sure the rod is long enough to stay engaged into the fork.
i would take a spare "rod" (any piece of round material that will fit) and cut, shape, test ... repeat. then cut the actual rod slightly longer, test and final cut.
i like to add a spring retainer from the fork to the slave when possible, i am not sure why they deleted that spring from the clutch assembly but they did.
cheers and good luck.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I was able to adjust my slave rod all the way in and it seems to work. I need to see if it has any pressure on the throwout bearing. My return spring is missing. I need to see what I can do for a replacement.

I am out for an inaugural run and it seems like it wants to stall if I let off the throttle at idle for long. It kind of slows down and dies over a few seconds. It's not an instant stall. Is it a small air leak that is causing this or is it simply adjusting the idle speed? Remember, this is a rotary pump 3B.



Inaugural run impressions:
- wants to stall by slowing down and then stalling over time (5-10 seconds) rather than an instant stall.
- seems to lack power but will rev up out of gear
- needs a bit of cranking to start with throttle at the same time

I'm thinking this might all be an air leak issue in the fuel system.

Someone help me out if I'm on the right track or not.

 

[crushers]

start cheap and work up ...
air in the line sounds very plausible.

 

[Kief]

Dang,
I just stumbled on this thread.. Sounds like have your hands full once again.. Keep up the good work.. Did you ever get the parts I sent?

 

[cruiser_guy]

Looks like I might have the stalling issue sorted out with a few more clamps on the fuel hose. Ran it at idle for about 10-15 minutes this afternoon and no stalling or even variation in engine speed.

Out for another inaugural run in the AM off to the mine. That's about the only place you can go right now as all other roads are blocked with stuck vehicles or deep mud. It could get interesting in a week or so if roads don't get opened.

I have an oil leak I'll need to deal with on the front of the oil pan. Has anyone had success in giving the nuts an extra turn to shut off leaks? The front of the pan looked a little wonky when we installed it so it's likely not perfectly straight.

Does anyone know how many bolts are across the from the the timing gear cover on the '89 BJ60? Could I use that pan on my new engine?

Another question. On the power steering conversion, do I need to worry about power steering oil coolers? This is a real short run from the pump to the reservoir to the box and back. No real length of pipe anywhere to cool oil in.

Kief, the parts never arrived. I'll bet they got lost in the mission mailbag somewhere and no one knew what they were. Got it sorted out another way though. But thanks anyways.

 

[Kief]

oh, well.

I have done a little tweaking on oil pans to get them to sit flat. Sometimes a little straightening with a hammer and dolly/ piece of metal is in order especially when over tightened on the old cork gaskets (not the case here tho') ...

The more cooling on your power steering the better- I would run however you can but eventually incorporate a cooler on the return side either using the tubing or maybe even an automatic tranny cooler. You probably encounter more power steering abuse than we do.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I'll probably pull the oil pan off at the next oil change and try tweaking it a little.

I need to pull the pitman arm off the power steering box. Ideas? The steering to the right doesn't go all the way to the stop before the box runs out due to the need to space the box out from the frame 1" to clear the engine mounted power steering pump. I've already twisted my SK breaker bar off trying to loosen the nut. I'm thinking to see if the mine can pull the nut with an impact wrench but then I'll need to be able to pull the pitman arm from the splined shaft. How tough can it be to get the arm off? Will a puller do it?

I'll also need to work a little on the throttle as it is not always responsive, probably due to a frayed cable or flexing pushrod.

 

[Kief]

Go buy some liquid wrench? Oh, wait, you are in Sierra Leone. Maybe something to eat the rust/ bacon grease, orange peel juice, battery acid??

What would I do if I was in Africa- pray? Ask a friend in America to pray?

I love these updates Charles, it reminds me of how small my problems are.. Keep up the good work, you and the Mrs. have one heck of a pay-day coming!!!