Engine swap in some little village in Sierra Leone! (1 Viewer)

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cruiser_guy

Out of Africa / North Africa
Joined
Jan 20, 2003
Threads
369
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11,224
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Wherever the truck stops!!
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join-hands-for-hope-helping-people-help-themselves.mailchimpsites.com
My 3B threw a rod with 630,000 kms on it. Luckly it was not far from where we are presently living in a small village in Sierra Leone. The neighbour towed us home with his HDJ-105. Then the hunt began for a replacement engine.

I was able to locate a Japanese takeout 3B from a later model Dyna truck. This 3B has a rotary injection pump, built in power steering pump and a vacuum pump separate from the altenator as well as being 24v. It gives me a few challenges to get the engine in and up and running.

Here's a photo days before the engine threw a rod. Driving down Fourah Bay Rd. in Freetown, Sierra Leone. Makes the city streets back home look deserted!

A photo of the nice hole in the block above the starter and a photo of the new to me 3B engine.
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You can see from the red mud stained parts that I have already begun the transformation of the Dyna 3B to a Land Cruiser configuration. I've been pleasantly surprised about all the parts that are interchangable.

Of course, as to be expected there are challenges and here are some of the issues.

Connecting the throttle and the rotary injection pump. I assume that the stroke and the butterfly valve position should be fairly close to the same as originally.

The power steering pump is adjacent to the steering box as opposed to the opposite side of the engine as was standard on the 3B in the LandCruiser. I'll need some special hoses. Does anyone know of an "on-line" source for flare end flexible hoses for the pressure line? I should be able to flare the end from the pump and the end from the steering box.

The vacuum pump should not present a problem other than running a line to a different location.
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The exhaust manifold has a different bolt pattern from my old 3B but luckly the AXT manifold must have been made after this bolt pattern came out as, other than a little clearancing where the manifold would hit the block, it bolted up fine!

The altenator might be a challenge. After some negotiation and explaining that I wanted to maintain the 12v system of my truck without a step up/down transformer on board I was given an altenator from a KZ engine. It looks similar to the 24v one the Dyna had but the connections are a different location. I'll also like to know the pin designations so I can modify my harness to match. It appears to be an internally regulated altenator. What exacly makes an altenator a 24v or 12v? I don't suppose just changing regulators or diodes will do it. I may need to gut the two altenators and put the 12v guts into the 24v case. Is that possible?

Fuel line connections. Most of this was answered on my other thread about the blown engine but I'll just double check. I assume the small line is the return and the larger line is the main supply from the tank via the separator and fuel filter. I'd appreciate confirmation is anyone knows for sure.
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Wayne, have you transplanted any of these into a CDM market BJ60? If so how did you handle the altenator or throttle issues?
 
"The altenator might be a challenge. After some negotiation and explaining that I wanted to maintain the 12v system of my truck without a step up/down transformer on board I was given an altenator from a KZ engine. It looks similar to the 24v one the Dyna had but the connections are a different location. I'll also like to know the pin designations so I can modify my harness to match. It appears to be an internally regulated altenator. What exacly makes an altenator a 24v or 12v? I don't suppose just changing regulators or diodes will do it. I may need to gut the two altenators and put the 12v guts into the 24v case. Is that possible?"

If I remember correctly from my apprenticeship 24v alternators have double the windings as a 12v. The diodes change the current from AC to DC and the reg obviously regulates the current output.

Can't you fit the 12v alt to your new block? The old bracket should mount up to the new block ok, unless the power steering pump or vac pumps in the way. That way you don't have to change any wiring. You should be able to unbolt the vac pump of the back of the alternator
 
mini truck alternator should work.
the 3B II came in 1989 BJ70 and BJ60 so factory parts for the throttle should be available...
 
After the comment above from jb BJ73 I got to thinking I can use my stock altenator and keep everything stock especially since I have a spare altenator. My issue then becomes the oil drain but that is not difficult to solve and I need a solution for the turbo oil drain anyways. Direct to oil pan as has been suggested countless times before.

Is there anything I can do with a second source of vacuum? I've seen vacuum pumps operating off compressed air, are there air compressors operating off vacuum pumps? Can I hurt anything having two vacuum pumps pulling at the same source?

Wayne, does my stock CDM intake manifold have the bosses necessary to mount the factory throttle linkage? I should have no issues, other than time, to order the throttle linkage (it doesn't look too pricey) but if the bosses are not there to mount it properly and securely that becomes an issue, though not as difficult to overcome. I might have to airfreight it in though.

The engine importer gave me a minitruck altenator but the "B" terminal ends up pressed against the side of the block. I'll try swapping the rear casings and rotating the terminals to the top of the altenator.

I just dumped the oil from the blown engine and got more coolant than oil out! I guess most of the oil blew out the hole in the side of the block and the remaining coolant drained down into the oil pan.
 
You can see from the red mud stained parts that I have already begun the transformation of the Dyna 3B to a Land Cruiser configuration. I've been pleasantly surprised about all the parts that are interchangable....

Have you put your BJ60 intake manifold onto your Dyna engine here?

SwappedInletManifold.jpg

If so, I think you have a problem.

In your BJ60 I believe your accelerator pedal controlled your air intake via an intake manifold butterfly valve (using cable and linkage).

However ... do you see any butterfly valve when you look inside your Dyna intake manifold? ....I doubt it.

So with your new engine I think your accelerator pedal needs to operate the fuel control lever on the rotary injector pump and because of this I think you're better off using the Dyna intake manifold.

...Connecting the throttle and the rotary injection pump. I assume that the stroke and the butterfly valve position should be fairly close to the same as originally. ...

As I asked above .... "Did your Dyna engine have an intake butterfly?" (If the answer is "No" then you shouldn't have fitted one.)

Edit: I posted all this before seeing "Crushers images above" and "Amaurers post below". So it looks like I need to have a rethink. (It seems that your Dyna 3B did come with some sort of intake butterfly valve after all!)

......Fuel line connections. Most of this was answered on my other thread about the blown engine but I'll just double check. I assume the small line is the return and the larger line is the main supply from the tank via the separator and fuel filter. I'd appreciate confirmation is anyone knows for sure.

IPpipes.jpg

.....
Is there anything I can do with a second source of vacuum? I've seen vacuum pumps operating off compressed air, are there air compressors operating off vacuum pumps? Can I hurt anything having two vacuum pumps pulling at the same source?...

A vacuum pump can't be successfully used to generate compressed air (for tyre inflation) if that's what you're getting at here.

If you end up with two vacuum pumps here (ie. one on your alterator and another on your block) then as far as I can see it wouldn't be a problem to have them both pulling on your booster.
(Just check that each has its own non-return valve so neither can pull in air from the other.)

:cheers:
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Strangely Tom, the 3B-II's and other 3Bs without the pneumatic governor do still have a butterfly/throttle plate in the intake.

No idea why... you can see how the linkage is set up to actuate the pump and the throttle plate in crusher's pics.

I was actually going to ask crushers if he's ever tried removing it.
 
Strangely Tom, the 3B-II's and other 3Bs without the pneumatic governor do still have a butterfly/throttle plate in the intake.

No idea why... you can see how the linkage is set up to actuate the pump and the throttle plate in crusher's pics.

I was actually going to ask crushers if he's ever tried removing it.

Thanks Drew! I've just thrown an edit into my last post.

You won't believe how much time I've wasted trying to see whether the "glowplug-fitted late-model 3B" had that butterfly valve or whether it was restricted to the "intake heater" engines. (I had assumed it didn't.)

I can certainly understand the point in trying to seal off that area (with a butterfly valve) for the purposes of preheating air (that'll get sucked in when you begin cranking) when you have an intake heater instead of glowplugs.

But like you, I'm a little confused as to why Toyota wants to control air flow with a butterfly valve in this particular engine.

Anyway ... this now represents a significant hurdle for CruiserGuy to overcome.

How the hell does he match up that exact same accelerator linkage so that moving his accelerator pedal moves both the butterfly valve and IP-FuelControl-lever in the correct proportions??????

And if he is going to use his BJ60 intake manifold, will it even have the same flow characteristics? (I doubt it.)

Thoughts anyone?????

(Whose swapped in this type of engine before?)

:beer:

PS. On another topic CruiserGuy, I'm guessing you can just swap in the same spec glow plugs you were using on your BJ60 and that'll get your preheat sysyem working as before. (So at least that'll be easy if I'm right.)
But most importantly, does this Dyna engine mate perfectly with your BJ60 bellhousing and BJ60 gearbox input shaft? And can your old BJ60 starter be used on this Dyna engine?
 
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The image crusher posted (reproduced below) shows it best. The cable ends at a bellcrank which is attached to the butterfly.

The bellcrank itself is fixed to a shaft that rotates along with the crank when it is moved by the cable - that shaft extends downwards about 8" to a second crank that operates the pump.

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.....How the hell does he match up that exact same accelerator linkage so that moving his accelerator pedal moves both the butterfly valve and IP-FuelControl-lever in the correct proportions??????
And if he is going to use his BJ60 intake manifold, will it even have the same flow characteristics? (I doubt it.)...

The image crusher posted (reproduced below) shows it best. The cable ends at a bellcrank which is attached to the butterfly.

The bellcrank itself is fixed to a shaft that rotates along with the crank when it is moved by the cable - that shaft extends downwards about 8" to a second crank that operates the pump.
...

Yeah. I was just thinking of the trouble of sourcing this stuff. As far as I can see these are the part numbers for a 1989 BJ75:

ThrottleLinkage.jpg

But even if they are still available from Toyota and not too expensive, can we guarantee they'll mount on this Dyna engine and connect properly? And with which intake manifold?

:beer:
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I'll try popping the butterfly linkage off of my rotary 3B... I suspect it isn't strictly necessary. Might not be a long term solution but it'd get ya going.
 
Tom, the intake manifold is off the old engine. I've simply rotated the butterfly valve to put it in the correct orientation to operate the linkage.

The Dyna 3B does have the butterfly valve as the others have suggested and the attached picture shows. The large port on the side is simply crankcase ventilation and another thing I'll need to take care of. The crankcase ventilation must be connected pre-turbo or I'll blow out seals.

The boss which holds the linkage is not part of my intake manifold but that would not be a tough obstacle to overcome.

The glow plug system is almost identical. The only difference is voltage so I just swapped glow plugs. I'm not too worried about that.

I don't see any difficulties with the clutch or bellhousing either. I know later model 3B's had a different bellhousing and brackets were added to the engine but I believe the bellhousing bolts up fine and the added brackets are removable.
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Anyone in Japan or other markets who is able to order up this linkage for me? I'll fab up a mount as required to make it work.

The part numbers are:

accelerator linkage assy 78100-90K00
rod 78106-90A01
rod 78105-90A01

DHL works here in Sierra Leone too!
 
dave at Japan 4X4
or
Mark at Ens in Sask might be able to help out...

Thanks Wayne, I'll give them a try.

I pulled the oil pan today to swap to the new engine and got a look at what went wrong. It looks like the piston broke apart at the oil ring and below! Part of the piston must have dropped down in the crankcase and got pinched between the crank and the block knocking a hole in the side of the block. I had the clip from the wrist pin, the spring from the oil ring and parts of rings as well as piston skirting in the oil pan. I shot a picture of it but it might be tough to make out. The piston is of course up at the top of the bore. I'm surprised that the engine didn't lock up from all this (wrist pin/con rod hitting a spot on the piston remains that would drive it up into the head and cause the crank to be unable to turn). I shut off the engine myself rather than it shutting down or seizing up when I saw a steam cloud in the rear view mirror.

I have other questions as well.

Is this a idle up solenoid for the A/C? It's connected to the vacuum pump and the injection pump with a diaphragm.

Where would you connect oil pressure for the turbo and altenator vacuum pump here? Ignore the oil slick, that was from the oil lines I laid on top of the engine. I didn't realize they still had oil in them. Besides, being a long time 3B owner it just doesn't seem right if that side of the engine is oil free!
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