Engine swap in some little village in Sierra Leone!

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What do you do when the only engine hoist within 3-4 hours has a leaking long reach jack?

Think outside the box! We welded a length of square tube to the top of our 20 ton jack and we'll need to drop the engine to the floor in stages but at least it will work!

Bad news on the throttle linkage. The linkage assembly and rods are all obsolete. Looks like we'll need to recreate it then.
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soooo,
are 3B engines that hard to find down there?

the wife wants to make a trip to South America, where do you suggest we head?
 
crushers said:
soooo,
are 3B engines that hard to find down there?

the wife wants to make a trip to South America, where do you suggest we head?
Click to expand...

3B engines are not tough to find, it's just 3B engines for Land Cruisers that's the problem! The fellow with the engine hoist told me Land Cruisers don't have just four cylinders!

Right now we are in Africa, not Central America. As for where to go, it depends what you want to see. For Mexico and Central America you have beaches, colonial cities, ancient ruins and natural sights you need to decide which you and the wife want to see.
 
Wayne, it depends how much heat you and the wife can handle. Any place that has highlands (over 5000') you can find comfortable 20-25C weather most of the year. I kind of like the highland temps in South America. But if you want beach, than expect to deal with heat and humidity most of the year. Again, that depends on how far South you go.

I doubt if heat and humidity bother Cruiser_guy much anymore.
 
cruiser_guy said:
....
Bad news on the throttle linkage. The linkage assembly and rods are all obsolete. Looks like we'll need to recreate it then.
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Perhaps you can use the throttle linkage from the Dyna?

Or was that engine imported from Japan by itself?

On the other hand, I suspect the air butterfly is simply there for safety purposes to prevent "a runaway engine". (If the Dyna were to roll over, engine oil could flow into the air intake via the crankcase breather and a hot revving engine could use that oil as fuel to scream itself towards self-distruction if it didn't have any form of "intake air restriction".)

So you may find that engine runs perfectly well with the "intake butterfly valve" held open (or removed entirely) and with your accelerator simply controlling the fuel on the IP.

That is why Drew's experiment may be useful to you:

amaurer said:
I'll try popping the butterfly linkage off of my rotary 3B... I suspect it isn't strictly necessary. Might not be a long term solution but it'd get ya going.
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Have you tried it yet Drew?

:cheers:
 
Drew, are you turbo-charged? Any odd behavior with it like that? Did you go through the rpm range or were you just at low engine speeds? Pyrometer, if you have one, show any weird readings?

It looks like I'll be running that way at least initially.
 
cruiser_guy said:
Anyone in Japan or other markets who is able to order up this linkage for me? I'll fab up a mount as required to make it work.

The part numbers are:

accelerator linkage assy 78100-90K00
rod 78106-90A01
rod 78105-90A01

DHL works here in Sierra Leone too!
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Sorry mate. I phoned my local Toyota guy and on there system it shows those parts as obsolete.He referred me to their Hino branch, as the motor is out of a truck.Unfortunately Hino's system shows it as an "Import" which they don't carry spares for :frown:
 
tmarx said:
Sorry mate. I phoned my local Toyota guy and on there system it shows those parts as obsolete.He referred me to their Hino branch, as the motor is out of a truck.Unfortunately Hino's system shows it as an "Import" which they don't carry spares for :frown:
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Thanks for trying! According to Drew's experiment it isn't strictly necessary. I'll probably still try to fab up something but at least it is not "mission critical"!
 
First obstacle, the Dyna flywheel has 8 bolts, the Land Cruiser only 6. The Dyna clutch, in worse shape than mine, is about 1/2" larger in diameter.
Anyone know if it will clear the bellhousing before I get it together? A trial with just the pressure plate says "Maybe!"
Failing that, do both cranks have the same bearing sizes? I really don't want to change cranks if I can avoid it but if I have no choice....
 
cruiser_guy said:
Drew, are you turbo-charged? Any odd behavior with it like that? Did you go through the rpm range or were you just at low engine speeds? Pyrometer, if you have one, show any weird readings?

It looks like I'll be running that way at least initially.
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No, I'm not turboed, but yes, I did work the engine out and had no problems at any speed/rpm. I do have a pyro and it was all average/boring.

In fact this change actually stopped one "issue" by BJ73 always had; its always given a puff of black smoke as get off the gas when working quickly through the gears (my BJ42 w/ inline pump didn't do this, so it was always a mystery). I believe it was due to the throttle plate slamming shut as you lift your foot and cutting off the air; now it still shifts fine, just no puff black smoke.

Maybe its there to assist with downhill engine braking? Dunno.

Regardless its 100% drivable.
 
cruiser_guy said:
First obstacle, the Dyna flywheel has 8 bolts, the Land Cruiser only 6. The Dyna clutch, in worse shape than mine, is about 1/2" larger in diameter.
Anyone know if it will clear the bellhousing before I get it together? A trial with just the pressure plate says "Maybe!"
Failing that, do both cranks have the same bearing sizes? I really don't want to change cranks if I can avoid it but if I have no choice....
Click to expand...

No first hand experience with a 13B swap, but sounds like if your 60 has a steel bellhousing, probably going to have interference using the bigger flywheel/clutch. Switching to aluminum bellhousing to run a 13BT/1HZ clutch brings up some other issues for your 60 (transmission clocking for sure, maybe starter?).
There are some 14B and 15B swap writeups that could be a useful read, e.g.:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...4-15b-into-bj42-im-doing-now.html#post6788014
 
you could always grind a whee bit of the cast off to clear the larger flywheel ...
think of it this way, 1/2" larger is only 1/4" per side
i say bolt the 8 bolt 13BT flywheel on and see how much clearence you actually have.
there is NO movement of the flywheel or the bell housing so even an 1/8th" would suffice.
 
Engine is nearly together with the tranny. Not sure if the clutch is centered perfectly. I don't have a centering tool so I did it as best I could. I may have to make a centering tool if it doesn't go together. I've got some bolts in and I've given everything a good shake.

I'm about 1/4" apart right now. I've tried stepping on the clutch to allow the clutch disc to move about in there. I don't know if that was a good idea or not but it hasn't helped. I've turned the engine over with the crank pulley and there are no rubbing noises from the clutch pressure plate contacting the bellhousing.

The next big problem is the power steering pump. It is contacting the steering box. I have not yet installed the power steering box so I'm wondering if I could space the box out a 1/4" or 1/2" to gain a little clearance. Anyone see any issues with that? I've probably got 1/4" left on the stock bolts as it is. I don't see it hit anything but of course the arm will be offset 1/4" or 1/2" from factory so will it still get the full range of steering? I don't want to wind a tie rod end out that much.

Here's a nice shot of the engine with the hole at #4.
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to center the clutch disc without the fabulous center tool
loosen the pressure plate till you can move the disc but the bolts are still threaded.
then feel for the disc at clamping edge of the PP.
adjust till you have the exact same distance from each edge.
repeat as neccessary till you have it centered.
if you take the PP off and lay the disc onto it as if it was on the engine you will get an idea how far in the disc should be sitting.

make sure it doesn't move and tighten the bolts evenly.

i have done this on numerous installs and it works excellently.

just a suggestion.

<way easier than trying to install a tranny and finding you have to take it all apart again to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing>
 
crushers said:
to center the clutch disc without the fabulous center tool
loosen the pressure plate till you can move the disc but the bolts are still threaded.
then feel for the disc at clamping edge of the PP.
adjust till you have the exact same distance from each edge.
repeat as neccessary till you have it centered.
if you take the PP off and lay the disc onto it as if it was on the engine you will get an idea how far in the disc should be sitting.

make sure it doesn't move and tighten the bolts evenly.

i have done this on numerous installs and it works excellently.

just a suggestion.

<way easier than trying to install a tranny and finding you have to take it all apart again to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing>
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Wel wayn thats the way i did it numberes of times....always worked well..
Mike

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD... fun starts where the road ends
 
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